B38JA-2CXW-ON Magic Chef Range - Instructions

I noticed that one of the burner blocks was completely burned and the others were corroded. I ordered blocks for all four burners. Installation was easy except for one block. The screw holding the bracket to the range top was completely corroded in place. I used a correct size easy-out, which is a left hand tap and drill, to remove the screw. That took about five minutes, including tracking the easy-out down in one of my many toolboxes. The entire replacement of four blocks took about one and a half hours. Stove top cooks like new on all burners! The part kit had all the right parts and they fit like a glove!

Range is a 1967 model Maytag. First I removed drawer under oven, unplugged the range and pulled it out from the wall. Removed oven door by positioning it in the partly-open detent position, then pulled up to remove the door. Next I removed 7 screws per side panel: 3 in front and 3 in back, and one on top under cooktop, which retains the cooktop hold-down clip. With side panels removed, I noted the oven door spring position on the intact left side, then replaced the right-side spring first using the same spring adjustment positions. As I replaced the spring, I applied lithium grease to the spring hook pivot points as well as the spring coils where they rub against the interior wall. I repeated the process on the left side. I reassembled the side panels, oiled the door hinges and reinstalled the oven door. Reinstalled range and bottom drawer. The oven door operates like new, and the new springs are totally quiet — good for another 47 years!

The repair itself is really quite easy. Cut the wires, strip the ends and attach the new receptacle with wire nuts. The hard part was getting to it. My cooktop is about 30 years old, so I had to wade through piles of nasty built up grease. Some of the sheet metal screws were unworkable, so I had to cut them off with a Dremel tool. Not a pretty picture, but that's how repair work is on old stuff.

I removed the burner element, then the drip pan. I took off the old block. Then I had to strip the old wires. Then I put on the heat sleeve, then attached the new wires to the old wires with nuts. Put heat sleeve over this and heated with lighter. Then put everything back together.

Shut off power at breaker box. Removed top burner unit. Removed old receptacle (Mounting screw was rusty so I drilld out the old one.) Cut wires from old unit. Stripped wires back on old unit. Attached old and new wire with ceramic wire nut. Attached new unit. Reinserted top unit. Reconnected power and "voila". Wife was smiling again.

Well, I had to search a bit deeper in the internet to find out that the problem was not with the surface burner (which did look a bit burned out anyway) but rather with the surface burner switch (Part Number: PS336885) which must have ben damaged by the heat of the closest burner. If this problem would have been better documented (or if I would have searched more carefully) I would have saved over $40 with parts (Surface Burner Receptacle Kit) that I didn't quite need. Repairing the switch was very easy, thanks also to the available video , even though the stove used on this video (front panel) didn't quite match mine (top-back panel).

After carefully inspecting existing burner receptacles, I unscrewed them, raised and propped stove top. Determined which bracket to use from new kit and proceeded to cut and strip wires, twist ends together with supplied ceramic caps and heated shrink wrap on that junction. Works great. BTW got parts in 2 days in great shape and good directions.

I removed the entire burner assembly to avoid having to turn things off at the breaker - the whole assembly can be removed completely from the stove I had. Once it was out and disassembled, the toughest part was putting the new wires into the new block correctly. Once that was done, I had to select the right mounting bracket - there were 2 in the kit. Easy, just attention to detail. The rest of the instructions were easy to follow, re-doing the wires. The re-assembly was trivial, and it worked first time!

I shut off the breaker checked for power then cut old plugs making sure to allow a little slack. Tightened down wire nuts put on a couple wraps of electrical tape and that was it. Burners work great now I would reccomend this product to anyone with a similar problem.

Removed the oven door, removed old burned element, installed new element. Turned CB back on and tested oven. Reinstalled oven door. Straight forward and easy to follow directions with new element.Local appliance part house said the element was no longer available. Thanks to you I did not need a new oven. Very easy replacement job with normal tools.Thanks

My son-in-law installed the new element. First turn off the electricity and remove oven door. Then unscrew all connections to the element.The back electrical wires come out from the top back oven. The bracket screw faces the oven and the electrical wires are so short there is very little room for a screw driver (get the shortest one you can find..abt as big as your thumb if possible).Once that was out the element came out with no problems.Then it's just reversing the step. Again, that back electical bracket is difficult to get to for install. Also, the new screws in our kit were Philips, but the old ones were flat so check those out before turning off the oven light.

I was unable to remove the screw which held the electrical element.. so I took the new surface burner receptacle and removed the metal part, and used the old one and put in the new one in the old metal part and rewired, and it is like new.. now I need to do another one.

used drill to remove old screw

We just installed the new rack in the oven. The amazing thing (after many unsuccessful attempts to find the correct rack) was having a friend recommend partselect.com. The gentleman I spoke to was extremely knowledgeable, helpful and efficient. We had our new rack 2 days after placing the order. We thought that kind of service didn't exist any more! Thank you so much. Now we can make 2 pizzas at the same time!!!

Unscrewed screw holding bracket. Used side cutters to cut wires. Replaced the bracket, put the shrink wrap on wires, twisted wires together and held with wire caps. Shrunk the wrap with lighter. I'm a 67 year old female.. No problems.