CGR3765ADC Magic Chef Range - Instructions

Replaced spark module but same problem persisted. Realized that the insulation on the spark ignitors were all cracked, causing a short.

Lesson learned: check the condition of the spark ignitors first as these have a tendency to crack. Even the smallest crack will cause a short.

Ordered new spark ignitors and plan to complete repair.

I learned that I could clean the window in the oven door. In taking it apart I saw that the gasket had fallen into the oven door. I found the part online, it arrived in three days. I removed the metal part of the door, removed what was left of the old gasket and put in the new one. Put the metal part of the door back on, and it was as good as new.

. First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...) pushed wires back in and secured sensor

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I then conected the new element and replaced te two screws. Turned on the oven & works fine.
Very Easy!

I had to unscrew 4 screws on the burner unit and then 2 screws on each igniter. slip the olds out and the new ones in and then replace all the screws. And wa la they sparked and I was cooking again.

removed racks, bottom plate. removed screws with a little bit of help from cooking spray. Unclipped old ignitor clipped in new ignitor, used old screws, and inserted insulation replaced racks, bottom shelf. Turn on oven and worked, been using it for about a week now. PS. ordered on monday morning arrived wednesday afternoon.

Confirmed that the solenoid controlled water valve (Part # PS358631) between the water source and the back of ice maker was defective. I did this by removing the valve and plastic hose from the back of the refrigerator and pointed the end that went into the icemaker towards the sink. I applied 110 volts to the valve and noted that no water was getting through. Replacing the valve was a snap.

Had to unplug unit, remove back of unit (6 screws), then unscrew oven sensor (2 screws), then unplugged old sensor, replaced it and put back of oven on...Moving the oven out and working in the tight space avaialble was the most difficult. Other than that, super easy job that probably saved me a lot of $$$...

I removed door by opening it to first stop and lifted it up off the hinge's. I removed all screws that held the inner panel to the outer panel and handle. Removed inner panel from outer panel, then glass and insulation, replaced glass and insulation and panel.

Replaced screws and handle,pulled hinge's out to first stop and slid door down on hinge's. This took about 20min. to do, most anybody handy with a screwdriver can do it.

PS: shipping was fast and price was great.
Thanks Bob G.

I removed the two screws that attach the sensor to the oven wall. Then removed to more screws in the back of the oven and took off the rear cover, diconnected the sensor connector and installed the new sensor.

After reading some of the repair stories, I was hesitant about doing this task. It was really very simple, I just removed the screws from the back of the stove, and removed the old element. I then replaced it with the new one and replaced the back cover. This whole task from start to finish took 10 minutes. The oven heats perfectly now just like a new oven.

I was not sure what was causing the problem, I thought at first it was low water pressure causing the hollow ice cubes. After some trial and error testing I figured a likely cause could be the water valve in the ice maker itself. I replaced that part rather easily using the existing fasteners in about 15 or 20 minutes. The ice maker has been working flawlessly since the repair.

First I unpuged the Range. Then I removed all racks and bottom tray of oven.
The Ignitor is located at back of oven, paralelle to the gas bar. I removed the 2 screws holding the ignitor and unpluged the wires. Then I put on the new ignitor, perfect fit, replaced the 2 screws and pluged in the wires , then pluged in the range. I turned the oven on and it lit in about 10 seconds.
Thank you PartSelect for having such a wide range of range & oven parts . no one should have to pay a service tech. to fix most problems, as long as we have a GREAT SITE LIKE THIS ONE.
p.s. You guy also had one of the lowest prices , my part arrived ahead of schedule .
THANKS A LOT !

Turn off the gas supply and unplug the power cord. Remove the screw on the back plate for the metal tab that covers the valve. Bend the tab up to expose the valve. Remove the gas line that feeds the broiler with an adjustable wrench. Remove the mounting screw for the valve. Loosen the valve inlet gas line fitting with an adjustable wrench. Lift the valve out. Reverse the steps to install the new valve.

After shutting the main valve behind stove. Removed all shelves and rear cover from stove. Unplugged the plug to the sensor. Removed the two mounting screws and pulled the old sensor out. Installed new sensor and plugged it in again. After reinstalling the rear cover and shelves, replugged in power, openned the gas valve behind the stove and tested with soapy water to make sure there wasn't ant developed leaks. Turned on oven with a test thermometer in it. Monitored operation and now oven temperature is roughly 10 to 20 degrees to the setpoint.