68HK-6TXW Magic Chef Range - Instructions

Turned off the power. Pull the range away from the wall and removed the eight screws holding the cover in place. Carefully pulled the wires off the old switch. Removed the old switch and replaced it with the new. Put all the wires on and replaced the back cover and was done. Burner works fine. This part replaces a lot of different number switches.

Lifted the range top about 2 1/2 inches, removed the ceramic top and replaced the burner. Tested the burner before replacing the top. Everything worked fine.

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

We just installed the new rack in the oven. The amazing thing (after many unsuccessful attempts to find the correct rack) was having a friend recommend partselect.com. The gentleman I spoke to was extremely knowledgeable, helpful and efficient. We had our new rack 2 days after placing the order. We thought that kind of service didn't exist any more! Thank you so much. Now we can make 2 pizzas at the same time!!!

Compressed the springs and removed the damaged switch, then changed the wiring over to the new switch and press into place, worked fine.

I UNPLUGGED STOVE, removed panel covering the controls, removed the knob on front and the two screws there that hold the control in, inserted new control and replaced the two screws on the front that hold it onto the stove, used needle nosed pliers to unplug one connection at a time from the old control and onto the new control in the back. When I had all connections plugged onto the new control I re-installed the panel cover with a screwdriver, plugged the stove back in, and the burner is now working good as new!

Range is a 1967 model Maytag. First I removed drawer under oven, unplugged the range and pulled it out from the wall. Removed oven door by positioning it in the partly-open detent position, then pulled up to remove the door. Next I removed 7 screws per side panel: 3 in front and 3 in back, and one on top under cooktop, which retains the cooktop hold-down clip. With side panels removed, I noted the oven door spring position on the intact left side, then replaced the right-side spring first using the same spring adjustment positions. As I replaced the spring, I applied lithium grease to the spring hook pivot points as well as the spring coils where they rub against the interior wall. I repeated the process on the left side. I reassembled the side panels, oiled the door hinges and reinstalled the oven door. Reinstalled range and bottom drawer. The oven door operates like new, and the new springs are totally quiet — good for another 47 years!

1. Remove power from unit. 2. Removed 1/4" sheet metal screw from lower blower vent tube. 3. Lifted the unit above the counter and placed two 1x2" boards between the unit and counter. To remove the Stove Top to get access to the Element you must remove 8 each 1/4" sheet metal screws from the bottom side of the Stove Top attaching flange. 3 each screws on the forward and aft side and 1 each on the left and right side. (Note, the 8 each 1/4" attaching screws are at the top of the Stove Top attaching flange.) 4. Remove the Vent Grill and locate the 2 each cross point screws on the center left and right side of the opening. (Note. Due to the limited space, I used a right angle cross point driver.) 5. Remove Stove Top. 6. Tag electrical connections. Remove and replace Element. 7. Turn on power and check Element. Remove power and Reassemble Unit.

The Burner Control Switch - 250V Part Number: PS2089409 that this site recommended was the right part for this older range. Had to remove screws to pull out the front panel with knobs, but it only pulls out a couple inches due to wires so it is tight to remove old switch. The five tabs are not in same spot so go by the labels and the wire lugs fit just fine, and the knob snapped right on and works great. Thank You!

Unscrewed three screws securing the glass top. Lifted glass top and wedged it open. Took a picture of the current wiring. Removed old burner.Compared male contact points on new and old burner. Plugged new burner in appropriately. Note: The new burner is MUCH hotter than the old one.

Pulled the range away from the wall and took out all the screws of the back panel. I had two different screws. Removed the dial and took two screws out behind the dial. Carefully removed the wires and placed them on the new switch. Screwed switch to panel, replaced dial and put the back panel back on range. Pushed range back into place.

After we got the part in the mail my husband put it on and shortened the wires and put new plugs on the ends of the wires and we had to get a new plug put it on and it was fixed.

The element appeared to have been damaged. I replaced the element with ease. However, I still have the same problem. The oven does not heat up to the set temperature. Information from the part select website is that it is more likely the long oven sensor. I ordered one and will provide the results after I have this sensor replaced with a new one.

Removed two screws holding cooktop to oven. Unlike the video, the cooktop was not detachable as the wires were hard-wired to the range, so I had to prop the top up with a 6" block of wood and was working upside down. I replaced the element and everything worked just fine.

We lifted the glass top, uninstalled the old burner and installed the new burner in it's place. It worked right away - and is still working. No other tricks the new burner was a perfect fit.