C3888XRA Magic Chef Range - Instructions

First throw the breaker on the stove. Remove two screws in back of oven then slowly pull out loosen the wire attachements ......got new part in 2 days just as simple reverse the removal directions.,,,I am over 60 female and it was simple.

I first shut off the breaker to the stove - safety first!

I used a phillips screw driver to remove the two screws that held the old element in. Then I pulled the old element out and used the pliers to remove the electrical connections. I put the new element in, made the electrical connections and secured it with the screws. After restoring powere via the breaker, we tested the stove and it worked. Just call me the Maytag Man!

I let my husband to the work...But it was very easy. I could have done it! He removed the screws, pulled the wires off previous element. Reattached the wires to the new element and screwed the ends back in place.

I received the new element on the third day, followed simple directions, and voila! I'm baking again.
First I unplugged the stove. Important!. Then with a phillips head screwdriver I removed the two screws at the back of the oven. The transition from busted to new was easy because there was a slide-in connection to the wires, not screws. The best advice was sticking duct tape on the wires so they wouldn't go back into the inner sanctum before I was able to attach the new element. Hey, I'm a 72-year-old grandma, and it was easy!

First I cut the power to the stove. Then I unscrewed the two screws. Pulled the element out a few inches. I had to use pliers to disconnect it from its wires. It was a very tight fit. Then I reconnected the new element. Cut the power back and and fired her up. Boy did she burn like fire.

Turned off power, removed 2 screws, un-hooked the connections, them put in the new element in reverse order.

First I turned off power to the range at the fuse box (very important-The last time I didn't do this and ended up paying a repairman $150.00 to replace the damaged connectors). I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I then connected the new element, pushed the element back in and replaced the screws. Turned the power back on and tested the element. The whole job took about 30 minutes because I had trouble disconnecting the old element. I used the flat end of the scrapper to push against the connector while I pulled the element out. Normally it would take only about 15 minutes.

Turned off power to cooktop and double checked
Lifted up entire cooktop and rested it on two pieces of wood that spanned gap underneath
Removed screws from around edges to free the metal framework that holds the cooktop in place-- this requires spinning the cooktop a bit to get access to the back.
Lifted metal framework off
Lifted glass from cooktop off
Checked configuration of power plug ins against new part and noted where they should go. There was a slight difference of how plugs were arranged, but it was easy to logic out.
Removed old burner unit and plugged in new one. Ensure that nothing was touching contacts.
Replaced the glass top onto cooktop
Put metal frame back in place and screwed in
Lifted entire cooktop, removed boards, and lowered back into place

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

Exact fit, but read the instructions! Male connectors on element are labeled 1A 1B 2A 2C, very faintly etched in the ceramic. Even though the old and new elements look the same (and I took photos to aid installation), the connector locations are different -- 1A on the old element is where 2B on the new one is, etc. Used included extension wire for one that would not reach with the new configuration and everything works perfectly.

Turned off all power to range.
Removed two Philip head screws
Gentle pulled unit Element forward
Removed two push on connectors
(Do not let wires fall back into oven holes)

Reversed the process.

removed the old element by taking out two screws then removed the two wires. pulled out the old element , put the new one in . connected the wires and screwed it in. Done.

POWER OFF! Unplugged oven from wall.

(Note: I found it easier to disconnect the wires from the element by removing the rear cover. Fumbling around inside the oven was getting me nowhere.)

Removed rear cover.
Disconnected old element.
Unscrewed the old element from inside the oven, removed, and installed the new element. Screwed the new element in place.
Reconnected wires in back, installed the back cover.
Connected power.
Tested. Good as new.

I removed the two screws at the rear of the oven and pulled out the existing element, plugged in the new element, pushing it back in place and mounted the screws back in the bracket. I then made the "Tim the Tool Man" grunt noises feeling very proud that I am now officially a Handy Woman!

Easiest repair ever.

#1 - Turn off power (or you will get electricutued).
#2 - Unscrew back of heating elements
#3 - Disconnect wires (may need pliers)
#4 - Attach new heating element
#5 - Put in screws

Everything took 15 mintes max.