3524SRA Magic Chef Range - Instructions

I removed the two screws at the rear of the oven and pulled out the existing element, plugged in the new element, pushing it back in place and mounted the screws back in the bracket. I then made the "Tim the Tool Man" grunt noises feeling very proud that I am now officially a Handy Woman!

Easiest repair ever.

#1 - Turn off power (or you will get electricutued).
#2 - Unscrew back of heating elements
#3 - Disconnect wires (may need pliers)
#4 - Attach new heating element
#5 - Put in screws

Everything took 15 mintes max.

Removed the cooktop using screwdriver. Pushed lens-light into cooktop hole.It was difficult to do and was where I spent most of my time. Next time I will spray bottom of lens- light with silicon so it goes in easier. I stood cooktop up on its side and inserted the red light assembly onto the lens-light. Reinstalled cooktop
and turned electrical power on.

Removed the two screws that held the element in place and then pulled off the element from the connectors. Slipped the new connectors on. Tested the oven - Baked some blackberry cobbler!

Unplug the 220 cord..remove rear metal back ( 7-8 Ph/screws)... disconnect the red & yellow connectors from the back of the lower element. Remove-the-lift-off Oven door. Remove the two Ph/screws (one on either end of the element) At the very rear of the oven. Install the new element and reverse the about to reassemble.

un-plug device from outlet for safety first and then remover all top panel after screws lower two side small screws. actually is not selector problem. It was burner switch problem for 6 inches element.

Very simple fix--unpugged two fittings in the back of oven plugged in the new element and it was done.The Best part was that the element burned out on a Sunday and I ordered the part that day and it shipped on Monday and received part on Wed AM.This is the second time I've had to replace the element and by ordering through Part Select I saved $24.00 versus buying it from an appliance store.

Don Samuelson

Removed two screws from back of oven ,pulled apart old coil from wires, inserted new coil into the small metal pieces, pushed back and screws replaced. Really easy , anyone can do. Oh, I am 70 years old so probably people younger could do more quickly.

first I removed the 2 screws, I then pulled the element out., accidently lost one of the wire in the insulation and had to take the back panel off which was 8 screws. Probably doubled my time. I received my part in 4 days thanks to good service and FedX It arrived the day before Thanksgiving. Just in time, Thank You All.

I was blown away by how easy it was to order and receive this replacement part. I went on the web on Christmas afternoon, Googled "Magic Chef" and found your website. Your ordering process could not be easier (including the on-line drawings and all). I selected the lowest cost shipping method "3-5 days." Wednesday evening, I got your e-mail with the tracker. Thursday afternoon the part arrived! Saturday, we opened the oven, took out the old unit, and put in the new. It worked fine! Thanks again!!

Removed what was left of the original clips. Pressed in the new clips and snapped in the themostat blub

Turned off power circuit to oven. Removed old element by unscrewing two nuts attaching unit to back of oven. Used pliers to help release electrical connections at both ends of element. Re-attached connections to new unit. Screwed nuts back into place. Turned power back on and cooked dinner. Total time for repair was less than 5 minutes.

I Unscrewed the attachment plates located at the back of the over. Pulled the element out so that I could "unhook" the prongs. Replaced the new element by clipping on the prong attachement (you will see where the electrical wires are). Screwed the plates back on and Vola! I'm baking again.

Piece of cake. Removed the Phillips screw with screwdriver, placed new one on the slide and used old screw to screw it in place. Drawer does not lean to one side anymore.

Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.