3187XTW Magic Chef Range - Instructions

removed the shield and removed the old tube. Replaced with the new tube and replaced the shield. The only place I could locate this tube was through the internet. This Co. had as good a price including shipping that I found.

I removed the flame baffle , removed the two screws that held the ignitor. Then I pulled the wires thru the back wall and disconnected . I had to cut the the connector and install with wire nuts because connector was different. Works fine now .

We actually had to get the repairman back that had repaired our microwave. Our range has the attached microwave above the range. My stovetop light worked prior to the visit. When he left, I prepared supper without the light, which did not go on. Ultimately, we had to replace the fluorscent tube, which thankfully, you had. No appliance store in a 35 mile radius did. We finally got the glass protector off, and the new tube did not go on. Back to the repairman, to tell him the new bulb did not work and that probably something happened when he visited before. He came back, found that indeed a wire had been broken when he was working on the microwave. I had indicated to him I did not expect to pay another repair bill after I had alrealy spent 117. before plus the cost of the new bulb, 22. something including shipping. He obliged and id not charge me anythink to repair the broken wire.
Now I have the old bulb for back up!!!
Thank you for having my replacement tube!!

Remove the door... it just pulls up and out... set the release tabs so you can remove the bottom plate .. pull out broiler drawer... unscrew the 2 screws on the igniter ..let that hang... remove the cover for the termination.. and unplug the old igniter... then reverse everything to put back together..

First I went online to find out about the availability of the part. In my search, I found what others had experienced and how they repaired it. Second, I ordered the part and followed others stories on their repair efforts. Third, I unplugged the range and removed the racks. Fourth, I removed the bottom of the oven which lifts out back first. Fifth, I removed the wing nut securing the flame difusser making it easier to access the element. Sixth, I had read that others had problems saving the original screws and/or threaded holes. I sprayed some wd-40 on both screws. They came out and back in without a hitch. Seventh, I removed and replaced the element, snap out, snap in. Eighth, I turned on the oven. It took about 15 seconds to glow but wow, it lit 5 seconds after that. I am my wife's hero!

I removed the back of the range to disconnect the wires to the igniter. Then I removed the two screws holding the igniter, screwed the new one in and reconnected the wires in back.
I was really pleased how easy it was to find the part on the website and how quickly the part came. The whole job was a snap. Thanks!

If your igniter glows but the burner doesn't light, your igniter is more than likely bad. It should have at least 3.2V to gas valve when the igniter is glowing in order to open the gas valve. The repair is very easy with only a 5/16" nut driver equired to remove and replace the igniter. It's pretty much a plug and play reair.

The igniter was located in the bottom of the stove or broiler section. It was hard to get at, but with a little trial and error I figured out how to take the plate between the oven and broiler. Now the igniter was easily accessable. 2 screws on the igniter bracket, then simply unplug the electrical. The igniter supplied had the identical electrical plug (plug and play). The new igniter works like a charm-oven ignites in about 15 seconds. Piece of cake!!!!!

I read all the reports on your site pertaining to oven igniters and decided to order one. I was amazed when it arrived the next day. I got a lot of tips reading others replys so I lifted off the oven door, took out the racks, removed the 2 screws holding the old igniter and tried to pull it out. There was hardly any slack in the wires, so I pulled the stove away from the wall, took off a breadpan size cover in back and found the wires were zip tied to a tube. I cut the tie and unplugged the wires, but the new plug didn't match so I cut the new plug off and rejoined the wires with butt to butt crimp connecters, which I prefer to wire nuts. I used the insulation and new cover from your kit as my old part had the long ceramic insulator and put it all back together. It works like new again and saved me a lot of money. I am very pleased with your product and service, thanks.

removed oven floor, removed two screws in element . pulled out element wires, secured them so they would not fall back into slot, snaped in new element . scewed it in place , replaced floor . thanks partselect.com

I pulled the oven knob off, unscrewed the two screws holding the skirt. Pulled the skirt and replaced with the new one. replaced the screws and knob.

The repair was real easy, other than the old bolts which just turned in the sockets when trying to get them out. It might be a good idea to provide two nuts and bolts to negate this problem. I would not mind paying a dollar or two extra for two bolts and nuts. Other than that, the instructions were clear. Product arrived on time and I would absolutely use your services again. Oven is back to working great! Thank you!

First I removed the two screws that held the old element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.
I replaced the element with the new one and tucked the connector in the insulation. Additional insulation came with the kit. I replaced the two screws that held the element in placed. Oven worked perfectly

I replaced the igniter in both the oven and the broiler. This was my first time ever working on a range.
I removed the oven door for easy access. To replace the oven igniter, I took the bottom floor out of the oven. The igniter is readily visible at the rear of the burner. I removed the two screws holding the igniter with a socket wrench. The screws were somewhat stubborn but yielded rather quickly. I gently pulled the two wires attached to the igniter from the back of the oven until the connector was exposed. I disconnected the old igniter and connected the new one. Then I simply reversed the the procedure, tucking the connector and wire back through the hole it came from and re - installed the two screws in the bracket. The insulation provided with the kit was used to plug the hole in the back of the oven.

To replace the broiler igniter, I essentially followed the same procedure. However, I chose not to remove the broiler baffle. This made it more difficult to both remove and re-install the two screws holding the ignitor. Otherwise, everything else went smoothly. If I had to do it again, I'd remove the baffle.

Removed two nuts and one screw to replace old igniter with new one. Replaced the nuts and screw. Turned on the oven, and it is working fine.