59FN-5TVW Magic Chef Range - Instructions

SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.

I slide the range out and unplugged it from the outlet. I removed the back of the oven ( 8 screws ) using a cordless drill and phillips bit then with a phillips screwdriver I removed the oven sensor (2 screws) then I installed the new sensor , reinstalled the oven back , plugged the range in , slide it back into place and that was it. This repair took about 10 mins and the oven works perfectly. Thanks !

Left oven off. Located sensor in pdf manual. Unscrewed mount, pulled sensor out to access connector. Disconnected old sensor, checked continuity(resistance) on ohms with multimeter. No continuity; connected new sensor, screwed mount back into place, turned on oven and baked cookies to check operation & it worked perfectly.

remove plate, gasket, & light cover then light. .Replace light. Put gasket on plate , insert cover. TAPE PLATE TO COVER ,then screw all in place, remove tape.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

I started by removing the door, then trying to remove all of the screws in the oven casing. Of course the very middle screw in the bottom of the oven was rusted and dammged by use. I had to use a drill bit and remove the old screw. After dissasembly of the oven casing, I found that the lip that supports the gasket was rusted and burnt away about 3/4 in. I placed the new gasket in and found that when closed it covered this defect and sealed. I reassembled and cheked for operation.Ok! Imortant--remove the elements before removing oven casing.

The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your website. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done

The new hinges couldn't be used because there were no threads where the screws go into the bracket! What should have been an easy job turned into a frustrating day. My husband would have had to try to find a tap & die set to thread it. We took the springs off and used our old hinges. Very, very frustrating. Our old bracket had been bent when the springs broke and door fell, so that bracket had to be straightened first since we couldn't use the new brackets.

I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

Oven door is the removable type, so once removed the problem with the door was revealed. Metal on the bottom of the hinge had broken off where the hinge attaches to the pivot point on the oven door. The oven was pulled out a few inches from the cabinet and a cable attached to the top of the hinge and a spring on the rear of the oven was detached to remove old hinge. New hinge was installed and I was left with the task of attaching the spring cable. With an old piece of electrical wire, I formed a loop and reached back to the area where the spring was located. Then looped the spring with the wire and pulled forward which made it's attachment very easy. Pushed oven back into place and slid door back on hinge. Pretty easy with a little bit of help from an old piece of wire.