Models > 31001SAA

31001SAA Magic Chef Range

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Diagrams for 31001SAA

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This flat style oven igniter kit is a genuine OEM replacement part for your gas range. When the igniter glows white hot, the heat opens the gas valve and ignites the fuel heating the burner assembly. ...
In Stock
$20.79
This is a screw and it is made for multiple appliances in your home. This model is called a sheet metal screw because it has sharp points, and the threads are closer together. This screw is designed t...
In Stock
$90.62
This is an oven rack for your range. It is a stable surface for your cookware to sit when baking and broiling. It measures to be roughly 23 inches wide and 16 inches long. It is made of durable metal ...
On Order
$7.76
Sold individually.
In Stock
$61.25
This door seal is fifty-three inches long. It is all black in color and is made of rubber. There are metallic clips sticking out of this seal at various points. These clips help to secure the seal to range doors.
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This surface burner knob is two inches in diameter. This is a black knob with white lettering denoting the off, high, and light positions.
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This thermostat knob is two inches in diameter. It is a black knob with white lettering and numbering denoting the warm, broil, and off positions, as well as denoting the various temperatures of the o...
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$108.49
This square burner grate has sides measuring almost nine inches long. It is all black in color. Sold individually.
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Sold individually.
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This set of four square chrome drip pans fits many gas ranges and cooktops. Each drip pan has sides measuring just over eight inches and a center hole diameter of three and a half inches.
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This screw is sold individually.
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$8.12
Sold Individually.
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Questions and Answers

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Common Problems and Symptoms for 31001SAA

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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Little to no heat when baking
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Will Not Start
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Element will not heat
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Oven not heating evenly
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Gas smell
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Oven is too hot
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Door won’t close
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Customer:
James from Ferndale, MI
Parts Used:
12400035
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Oven would not work but the Broiler did
The oven had been working intermittently for a while and after repeated threats of starvation from my spouse I finally took a look even though it was summer and the grill was working fine. The Igniter would glow red when the oven was turned on but the gas would not flow to it no matter what the temperature setting. I searched online and f ound this site that explained it was possible for the igniter to glow but if it was not drawing the correct amperage (because its resistance was too high) then the main brain would not allow the gas valve to open. So I took a look at the broiler and it had the same igniter. I measure the resistance of both of them and the oven igniters resistance was higher (don't rememeber the reading) then I moved the Igniter from the broiler to the oven and the oven worked from there it was just a matter of ordering the part. End of story except for I am still doing all the cooking on the barbecue outside.
335 of 368 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Charles from Charlestown, RI
Parts Used:
12400035
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Oven would'nt light
In most cases if your oven won't light or takes a long time to light you may have a bad igniter even if it glows. To check the igniter use a voltmeter to check for 120 A/C volts going to the igniter and3.5 A/C volts going between the ingniter and the gas valve. My bad ingniter glowed but had only only 3.0 A/C volts going to the gas valve for the oven. The new igniter took only 45 minutes to install and supply's 3.6 A/C volts to the gas valve and the oven works fine.
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Customer:
Beryl from Dawsonville, GA
Parts Used:
12400035
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
oven failed to light
My son replaced the broiler igniter this spring, so I had a clue as to what was required. This was even easier and since I had back surgery recently & my husband was out of town that was a giant plus!

I unplugged the oven, removed the oven door, found the release latch and removed the oven floor. I then removed the 2 screws that held the igniter in place (I received this stove used and the igniter had evidently been replaced before as it was the same shorter version included in the kit). I pulled the igniter out then removed some insulation and tugged the connector out of the oven floor. I disconnected the igniter and plugged the new one in. I then replaced the connector in the floor, attached the igniter with the screws, replaced the insulation and did a test run (plugged in the oven & turned it on). That was successful so I put the floor back in and put the door back on.
Ta-Dah!
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