3126STW Magic Chef Range - Instructions

using the diagram shown on line Looked up the ignition module and ordered it by phone. Received it the next day and installed it within the hour. Previously I had called the repairman and he said it would be a couple of weeks before he could look at it and a service call was $75 plus parts..I fixed it for the cost of the module $34. I am very satisfied.

The repair was straight forward. Turn off gas, unplug stove. Remove the oven door by opening slightly and lifting straight up. The bottom plate lifts from the back. Remove two screws and plug; install new unit. Turn everything back on; proceed with baking...

This was not a difficult task. I just slid the valve knob on the shaft, repair was complete. This was a very easy diy project.

finally after years of searching for trays of this size with no luck in local stores, I was able to find and purchase 2 sets, one set for my daughter, which we were able to put in place to clean up our stoves and make them more appealing . Thank-you for your prompt service.

Just replaced the old burner knobs with the new !!!

It looked like an easy fix. the igniter had a plastic clip. A simple R&R. Removed old igniter from its mount, removed plate to get access to wires, removed insulation. Tried to pull the old wires out of its location. It was hung up and I spent 1/2 hr. trying to free it. No go. I thought I'd have to remove oven from its cabinet. I removed six screws and it would not come forward. I felt the under side of the oven thru lower door of cabinet and found out that was where gas was connected. No way was I disconnecting the gas. Pushed oven back in, reinstalled screws and decided to cut old wires and splice in the new igniter. WENT BACK AND READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! Supplied were 4 ceramic wire nuts. Then the light bulb went on! OKAY! I got a marker and marked the top wire on the old igniter to identify it after I cut the wires as close to the back of the old igniter as I could with a pair of side cutters. I then cut the wires as close as I could to the plastic clip on the new igniter. Striped off 3/8 in. from all wire ends and spliced the wires together using the wire nuts. I stuffed the wires as far as possible back into the hole they came from, replaced all old and some new insulation into the hole. The supplied cover would not work, screw holes would not line up and would have fit poorly. I reused the old hole cover. Screwed new igniter to its mount. Turned on the oven and thought I screwed up. I waited about 30 seconds before I saw it start to glow. WHEW! I got it right! After a few more seconds, the gas came on and the oven burner ignited. The really hard part was putting the oven door back on its mount. That door was heavy and wouldn't line up on the first try.......
Maybe if I read the instructions thoroughly the first time before I started, I could have cut my time in half and saved a lot of cussin'. CUTTING THE WIRES WAS AN "OPTION"! That's why they supplied the ceramic wire nuts!....... Dinner is in the oven right now. Smells good!

The repair was super simple, just remove the drip pan and place new one.
The hard part was finding the drip pan for such an old model appliance. I had shopped locally here in San Antonio with no luck.
I was very happy to find them (exact match) at Part Select and the price was very reasonable. I'll use Part select in the future for needed parts.

I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

I first removed oven racks.then I removed bottom of oven by sliding locks,then lifting out bottom.Next I removed screw holding e. control cove,then removed cover.Igniter plug was exposed,I then unpluged egniter. I next removed 2 screws holding burner and igniter .I removed igniter and burner as a unit. removed 1 screw from igniter,and replaced igniter on burner.Then assembled every thing in reverse order,and tested Oven worked perfectly.

part was by the brolier drawer inside under stove removed 2 screws on cover/ part was attached to cover removed module line 1-2 fit/ had to use supplied disconects crimped on 4 burner wire leads/taped around module w/ elec. tape put back 2 screws finished. works now.

First remove the burner head by turning counter clockwise to unlock. Use pier to remove the wires from the igniter and burner. Once both burners heads are removed from 1 side, use screwdriver to remove both screws that is holding the burner orifice fitting assembly. You want to repeat the process for the other side. Once both sides are done, you can lift the range cover to gain access to the broken burner orifice fitting assembly. Use adjustable wrench to unscrew the two nuts that are holding the assembly in. Remove assembly and replace with new. Reverse the disassembly process then you are done.

ordered the new igniter kit, it was delivered the NEXT day, followed the instructions, it was a lot easier then my old Tappan oven, took about 15 minutes. Not bad at all, and I am a 58 year old woman.

Instead of buying a new range my son said he could replace the part so I looked your company up on internet and had it shipped. Three days later I was cooking with gas again! Thanks!

Just like the example I removed the oven base, removed the two screws holding the igniter. Pulled out the wires opened the connector, plugged in the new igniter put everything back and turned on the oven. The oven now lights better than it did when new. And it holds a steady temp.

Remove oven door, remove burner bar, replace ignitor, splice wires together because the old electrical connectors had melted together. Shipping was fast and extra wire, insulation and ceramic wire nuts were included.