58HA-2CX Magic Chef Range - Instructions

After buying a 'universal' part at Lowe's and it not fitting correctly and shorting out the burner, I went online and found this source for an exact replacement part. Beside having to disassemble the drop in stove burner two or three times it went well when I had the correct part. I lost one screw somewhere and that delayed me a short time to find a replacement. Thus the 1 to 2 hours. It would have been about a 30 minute job if I had been smarter.

Once oven was removed from wall not to bad

snaped them into oven cavity attached temp bulb job complete

it was relay easy when you get the right pats .so
Thanks for .
PART Select.
Best regard .
Walid

very easy

Screwed in light bulb and glass protector

My husband took the plastic cover off and took out old bulb and screwed in the new one. Then put the cover back on.

1. Unscrewed glass cover on bulb
2. Removed old bulb
3. Screwed in new bulb
4. Replaced glass cover
5. Mixed drink & baked cupcakes

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

removed old and installed new

My son-in-law installed the new element. First turn off the electricity and remove oven door. Then unscrew all connections to the element.The back electrical wires come out from the top back oven. The bracket screw faces the oven and the electrical wires are so short there is very little room for a screw driver (get the shortest one you can find..abt as big as your thumb if possible).Once that was out the element came out with no problems.Then it's just reversing the step. Again, that back electical bracket is difficult to get to for install. Also, the new screws in our kit were Philips, but the old ones were flat so check those out before turning off the oven light.

The Burner Control Switch - 250V Part Number: PS2089409 that this site recommended was the right part for this older range. Had to remove screws to pull out the front panel with knobs, but it only pulls out a couple inches due to wires so it is tight to remove old switch. The five tabs are not in same spot so go by the labels and the wire lugs fit just fine, and the knob snapped right on and works great. Thank You!

I was unable to remove the screw which held the electrical element.. so I took the new surface burner receptacle and removed the metal part, and used the old one and put in the new one in the old metal part and rewired, and it is like new.. now I need to do another one.

The repair itself is really quite easy. Cut the wires, strip the ends and attach the new receptacle with wire nuts. The hard part was getting to it. My cooktop is about 30 years old, so I had to wade through piles of nasty built up grease. Some of the sheet metal screws were unworkable, so I had to cut them off with a Dremel tool. Not a pretty picture, but that's how repair work is on old stuff.

1. Removed racks 2. Removed two screws holding in the bake element. 3. Gently pulled out the element exposing the two wires connected to it. 4. The two wires were held by a clip connection. 5. Removed the wire clips holding the wires. 6. Attached the clips to the new element and re-installed the element. New problem: The element did not heat up. A repairman informed me that the selector switch was damaged during the burnout- that switch was no longer manufactured and was discontinued. Whirlpool company was checked and indicated that there was a new part # 7403P023-60 but that was discontinued too. I was able to get the element working by moving the selector switch to the "Bake" position and then moving the switch about 1/4" in the clockwise direction. The element heated and the oven works at least for now as I search for a replacement part. PartSelect was an invaluable aid and helpful all along the process.