CLL1101ADW Magic Chef Range - Instructions

Replacing the vertical mount igniter was very simple. Remove 2 srews and one plug. I did pull out the oven to unplug te igniter. The process could not be easier.

1.) Remove door from hinges (open slightly and pull up). 2.) Remove racks. 3.) Remove oven floor to expose burner. 4.) Remove wing-nut and burner cover. 5.) Remove two ignitor mounting screws. 6.) Pull wires and connector through back wall. 7.) Connect new ignitor and mount to burner. 8.) Replace components in reverse order.

took oven door off, took oven racks out, removed heat sheild, took 2 nuts off ignitor, removed ignitor, gently pulled ignitor wire out from back of oven, unclipped wire, clipped new ignitor to wire harness, replaced nuts to install new ignitor, replaced heat shield. replaced oven racks, replaced oven door, tested to make sure oven lite, took about 10 minutes!!

1)Completely removed racks, oven bottom and broiler drawer to access unit. 2)Shut off gas supply by by pulling horizontal lever on left side of safety valve forward to close valve. 3)With screwdriver, removed heat shield covering safety valve and connector from igniter. 4)With socket wrench, removed the two mounting screws on igniter. 5)Installed new igniter, connecting to safety valve. 6)Turned on gas supply by pushing horizontal lever to left of safety valve back to open valve (see step 2). Turned on oven to test. 7)Upon gas igniting, shut off oven and install oven components in reverse order.

removed oven door and shelves and lower pan and replaced igniter

Unplugged the oven from electricity. Took off the bottom(Floor) of the inside of the oven. Checked that the new part looked the same as the old. It did. Then I checked the back of the oven, had to take off a cover, and the connector in the back was not the same. I did not that it had the same two wires so rather than send it back, I figured I could make it work. I started to take off the old piece by unscrewing the two screws. They were a bit rusted, one came off the other I had to hacksaw and twist off. I cut the old connecting end off of the old part and the end off of the new part stripped the cover off the ends of the wires, and put the old end to the new part, having also put the old wire covers over the new wires. then twisted the end together and wrapped the in electrical tape. I had to take the piece that held the new part out of the oven the tried to use the one semi-good old screw, then some newer screws, then finally used some new nuts and bolts to connect the part tightly. put everything back together and it worked.

Removed stove from slot in wall. Bent rear left leg would not unscrew due to bent metal bracket. Used hacksaw to cut out leg, then straightened metal bracket with small hammer and was able to screw new leg in and adjust height by using level on stove before reinserting stove its slot. Recheck level after pushing back in place and adjust front legs if necessary. If not for bent metal receiving bracket, would have taken much less time. Still easy tho. R'cvd part in two days. Very quick.

First off...there are 2 possible oven igniters for this model, and you must determine which one you have. Remove racks from oven.Remove oven door. There are 2 latches(tabs) on the oven side of the hinge.Pull these forward and down. Close the door approx. half way and it will lift straight up. Carefully lay the door aside.There are 2 Phillips head screws at the rear of the pan. They are steel, and may be rusted in place. I used a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut a slot in the top of the screw. Then I used a straight blade screwdriver with a pair of pliers on the shaft to assist removing the screws.The oven pan lifts up at the rear to remove.Use a nut driver to remove the 2 screws holding the igniter. Mine were stripped.They use a machine thread in light gauge sheet metal. Then use an air ratchet to put them in. Take a trip to the big box store and get some short stainless sheet metal screws to replace the damaged screws.Pull the wire through the insulation, unplug the old igniter and plug the new one in. Fish the plug and wire back through the insulation. Attach the new igniter with the new screws. Replace the pan with new screws, and reverse the procedure to install the door. Even with the purchase of the Dremel, you will still save a chunk of cash, and you get a tool for the arsenal. It's rare when you don't encounter some problems, with any job. The secret is not burying yourself with more problems you create.

This oven is part of a stand-alone gas (propane) stove. It was purchased and installed in July, 2005. The igniter I ordered from PartSelect arrived as promised. But the connecter on the new igniter did not match the connecter on the old one. I had to either find an igniter with a compatible connecter or splice the old connecter to the new igniter; I chose to splice. Now, I'm not a real handyman, and I'm especially skittish around electricity. But I found two wire connecters (plastic tube-like things with metal interiors). I stripped about a 1/4-inch from all four wires and inserted them into the wire connecters, making sure the igniter was properly placed so the screw holes lined up. Then I used the crimper tool to crimp the wires together. I did a pull test to make sure the wires were secure, replace the now connected wires in their proper place and turned the oven on. It worked! On this particular stove, you'll need a screwdriver to remove the vent cover, exposing the igniter wires. Due to the gas connection in the back of the stove, you can only pull the stove out so far. So, there's not a lot of room to work in the back of this stove; that's why it took a lot longer to complete this job than the wiring inself. I'd say no more than fifteen minutes. Of course, if all the parts are compatible, even less. Good luck!

It was really easy. Watched a brief tutorial on the Internet and went to town. Followed the instructions and had a working oven in no time at all.

Bought the igniter, replaced it with the old one and it works great.

My top burners and broiler were working fine so I knew it was not a gas pressure issue,after reading other peoples oven issues I felt comfortable that my problem was the oven igniter, the igniter was only building about 50 to 75 percent of the normal glow/heat needed, thereby not creating enough heat to trip the sensor that opens the oven burner gas valve. 2 Screws hold a drip pan which after removed allow access to the igniter. 2 Screws hold the igniter in. You need to access the rear of the stove to plug in the new igniter connector at a 1 screw access panel in the center of the back of stove. My oven has been working great since the repair. I would recomend partselect anytime, I ordered the wrong igniter, the diagram is confusing so be carefull , and had to send it back , I got my refund in less than a week. Good luck from beautiful western new york state.

Suspected the igniter, and verified by reading comments on your parts site. The mounting screws were frozen so I used larger screws. Piece of cake! Wa La!

The range in my classroom had the leveling legs broke off by the summer staff. I ordered two new leveling legs and the night custodian replaced them in about 45 minutes and them leveled the stove. Parts were just as stated and easy to order.

Removing the oven door by partly opening it and pulling it up out of the hinge made access to the igniter much easier. Access to the igniter was easy. Just remove the baking shelves and lift out the bottom panel. I removed the two screws holding the old igniter. One screw was difficult to remove because of oxidation, and required some tinkering as the threads were stripped. But once the screws were removed, the igniter was easy to replace and connect to the gas controller with a simple plugin connection.