CERS858TCW0 Magic Chef Range - Instructions

Simple-pulled range away from wall, unplug from socket. Removed back panel unscrewed thermoses and replace. Put back panel back on plug in, tested temperature setting before sliding range back on place

removed 3 screws holding the strip and replaced with new strip

Unplug stove. Remove the two screws attaching the element to the rear of the oven. Carefully pull out. Disconnect wires. Reconnect wires. Screw back in. Done. The hardest part was moving the stove away from the wall.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

First I found a YouTube video for Maytag Range Repair – How to replace the Surface Element with Limiter - 6" - 1200W

The steps are very easy-
1. Open oven door and locate and remove 2 screws holding top cook surface. These are located near the top inside edge

2. Lift surface cook top and then remove 4 screws holding this section to the cook top. This may require 2 people but I was able to hold the cook top and loosen the 4 screws myself. Then put the cook top aside.

3. Take a photo of the element being replaced for wiring connections.

4. Removing the wiring and element holding clips was very easy. I used needle nose pliers for both

5. The clips have to be removed from the old element and put on the new one. Place them in the same locations

6. Make sure to reconnect the wires to the same pin locations. The replacement element I had the red (hot) wire pin 2b was in
A different location so I had to use the extension wire supplied with the new replacement element

7. Put everything back together in reverse order.

Easy peasy, took me about 40 minutes to complete the entire replacement and have it back in place working.

Unplug the stove from outlet so no power going to appliance. Had to use wd on screws to help loosen
Little bit of effort to loosen. Took new element from package. Replaced screws just tight donot over tighten. Plug stove into outlet turned on. Did a automatic clean. Oven clean and baked cake later I am back in business and 63 years. Was quote 240.00 to from a local repair person. When using wd make sure you wipe any drip from before turning on oven.

First Things first, unplug unit, remove rear cover with Phillips head screwdriver, disconnect, wires from broiler element which is the top, one, open oven, unscrew top screws first, then two at the back, wiggle out element, then reverse Steps , test repair before putting cover back on. Then ta-da, you saved yourself a $300. Service call to the appliance repair guy.

Put the bottom of the glass in first then put the top half into the brackets in the door handle. Holding it in place with your extra set of hands tighten it down with the two screws from inside the oven door into the back of the handle. The door will be open a lot so be extra careful not to let the door close onto your hands or fingers. Also remember patience is a virtue.

Remove the side covers. Remove the 2 screws on the back side of the door, hold on to the glass and front panel, they will fall out. remove the 2 screws holding the handle. Put the new handle in place and insert screws, note the old handle had metal inserts that are threaded, the new does not. Had to push very hard and let the screws bite into the plastic.

After doing a YouTube search. I successfully completed the repair by easily diagnosing the issue with the element.
I watched a video about 5 most common problems with whirlpool broiler elements.
The first being to inspect the element for damage. I found a small section that appeared to be rough and had a raised bump.
I decided to order a new element because the oven is older and it wouldn’t hurt to install a new one even if this wasn’t the issue.
Once the part arrived, which it did quickly, I followed the video instructions. It was easy and straight forward. I completed the task in under thirty minutes. It was very simple and I now have a functional broiler element.

Remove the old part and install the new part.

Verified via ohmmeter that one of the two burners was open and not working. I also tested the switch and that appeared to be working okay. I then took out the old unit and compared it to the new one, and found that they upgraded the new unit. I followed the instructions to match the labeled parts and move the wire to the newer location of that. i.e the old one had 2B and 2A at the top and 1B and 1A at the bottom. The new one had 2B and 1B at the top and 2A and 1A at the bottom. It did come with wire extenders and insulated tubes on top of them, and extra to cover additional. After a couple of tries, I decided which wire I needed to use on which (small connectors to match small, and large to match large.) In a second try I decided to flip it over to have it face up instead of down. Overall, it worked out very well, and I was very pleased when I did the power up test and everything worked as desired.

Watched video & did just guy in video did. Very easy job & the burner works like new.

Very simple.
Remove 2 mount screws using a #2 phillips screwdriver.
Pull the element out to expose the 2 wires.
Using pliers, slip both wire terminals off the existing element.
Push wires onto the new element and install both mounting screws..
Done!

NOTE: The existing element showed no exterior signs of being bad.
The damage must have been internal.

Pulled range out and disconnected the electric. Took off the back panel 6 screws. Removed the burner knob and than the 2 screws holding the switch and replaced switch. Now the burner works like it should