34JA-3TKXW Magic Chef Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Gino from ARLETA, CA
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
igniter failed to ignite
Replaced the igniter by removing 2 screws, pulling on the wires to pull the connector in from the back thru the oval opening, screwing in the the new element, reconnecting the wires, pushing the connector back and that did it.
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- Customer:
- Marvin from DECATUR, GA
- Parts Used:
- 12001655
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The oven did not heat, but the top burners worked fine.
1. Slowly pull the stove from wall. 2. Unplug 120 volts plug from outlet. 3.Turned off the gas outlet. 4. Open the stove door, remove the racks, then unscrew (2) screws that hold the short oven sensor in place. 5. Slowly pull sensor out of it's housing. Remove the clip that holds the sensor. Install new sensor using the clip. Push sensor back through the hole opening. Screw the (2) screws into the mount to secure the sensor. 6. Plug the 120 volt plug into the wall outlet. Turn on the gas outlet. Test stove by turning on oven. It works like a new stove. Wife is happy, and Thanks Giving Dinner is on! Reverse your steps to secure your stove. A total of 25 minutes after cleaning the dust under stove. Thanks for everything. By the way, Thanks Giving Dinner was delicious.
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- Customer:
- Jacob from LITTLE CANADA, MN
- Parts Used:
- W11400301
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
Simply remove and install new parts
Overall, it was painless and easy with zero problems
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- Customer:
- Karen from DAYTON, OH
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Gas would come on, would not ignite. Oven not heating.
Super easy. Turn off gas and unplug. Lift door off hinges, just pull up on it. Take racks out. Lift floor of oven out. You may need to release clips in the back of the oven, but mine were not engaged. Remove wing nut from shield plate and lift plate off. Using nutcracker, or Phillips screwdriver, remove screws holding the igniter to the brace plate. Carefully pull wires from the back of the oven wall. Carefully unplug the old part. Carefully plug in the new part. Feed wires back into the oven wall and install fiberglass padding. Replace screws, shield plate, wing nut, oven floor, oven racks and door. Door just slides back onto hinges. Watch the video on parts elect. Couldn't have been easier. Saved $500 on replacing my oven. $40 for DIY repair. Awesome!!!
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- Customer:
- Ernest from CINCINNATI, OH
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
The oven igniter would glow red but gas did not come on to light the burner.
I watched a repair video, unplugged the electric,turned off the gas valve and disconnected the gas line. removed the shelves and burner tray. removed 2 screws and unplugged the igniter. Replaced the igniter and put tray and racks in.Hooked up gas and plugged in the electrical plug. Job done....
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- Customer:
- Cynthia from AURORA, MN
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
No heat in oven
Checked igniter it glowed but never got hot enough to open gas valve. I switched igniter from broiler to oven and oven burner lit. Switched igniter back to broiler as wires were shorter than the oven igniter. Ordered part from number and picture comparison. It took about 20 minutes to get it installed and all stove parts back together.
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- Customer:
- Matt from Arlington, AL
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven was slow to get to temp and not holding temp
Thanks to previous posters, this seemed to be an igniter issue, and I found the idea of swapping the broiler igniter for the bottom one particularly good - I knew exactly what part was broken and how easy/hard the job would be prior to ordering. The part used snap in electric components, so the only work was in removing and re-installing the parts. Working in the oven was by FAR the most difficult part of the entire process.
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- Customer:
- Vincent from Lewes, DE
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The broiler would not lite at all and the oven would lite occasionally but would not maintain temperature.
I replaced the igniter in both the oven and the broiler. This was my first time ever working on a range.
I removed the oven door for easy access. To replace the oven igniter, I took the bottom floor out of the oven. The igniter is readily visible at the rear of the burner. I removed the two screws holding the igniter with a socket wrench. The screws were somewhat stubborn but yielded rather quickly. I gently pulled the two wires attached to the igniter from the back of the oven until the connector was exposed. I disconnected the old igniter and connected the new one. Then I simply reversed the the procedure, tucking the connector and wire back through the hole it came from and re - installed the two screws in the bracket. The insulation provided with the kit was used to plug the hole in the back of the oven.
To replace the broiler igniter, I essentially followed the same procedure. However, I chose not to remove the broiler baffle. This made it more difficult to both remove and re-install the two screws holding the ignitor. Otherwise, everything else went smoothly. If I had to do it again, I'd remove the baffle.
I removed the oven door for easy access. To replace the oven igniter, I took the bottom floor out of the oven. The igniter is readily visible at the rear of the burner. I removed the two screws holding the igniter with a socket wrench. The screws were somewhat stubborn but yielded rather quickly. I gently pulled the two wires attached to the igniter from the back of the oven until the connector was exposed. I disconnected the old igniter and connected the new one. Then I simply reversed the the procedure, tucking the connector and wire back through the hole it came from and re - installed the two screws in the bracket. The insulation provided with the kit was used to plug the hole in the back of the oven.
To replace the broiler igniter, I essentially followed the same procedure. However, I chose not to remove the broiler baffle. This made it more difficult to both remove and re-install the two screws holding the ignitor. Otherwise, everything else went smoothly. If I had to do it again, I'd remove the baffle.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Orange, CA
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Replacement of igniter
Removed two nuts and one screw to replace old igniter with new one. Replaced the nuts and screw. Turned on the oven, and it is working fine.
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- Customer:
- michael from newhall, CA
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Oven wouldn't light
Same as the other entries in this section.
The only thing I would add is a hint for removing the broiler igniter. As you can see from the oven igniter, the wires connect with a plug. For the top igniter, the broiler, the plug goes through the insulation and then through a hole in the rear panel of the oven. So, when you pull on it, you will think it is stuck or the wire is pulled taut. That is because the plug hangs up on the rear panel.
Stick your finger through the square hole that you can see inside the oven, and follow the wire through the insulation. You will feel the small round hole in the back. You have to wiggle the wire up and around a bit to get the plug to fit through the hole. Then you will have the slack you need to change the plugs.
That way, you don't have to pull the whole oven out and break all the caulking seals.
The only thing I would add is a hint for removing the broiler igniter. As you can see from the oven igniter, the wires connect with a plug. For the top igniter, the broiler, the plug goes through the insulation and then through a hole in the rear panel of the oven. So, when you pull on it, you will think it is stuck or the wire is pulled taut. That is because the plug hangs up on the rear panel.
Stick your finger through the square hole that you can see inside the oven, and follow the wire through the insulation. You will feel the small round hole in the back. You have to wiggle the wire up and around a bit to get the plug to fit through the hole. Then you will have the slack you need to change the plugs.
That way, you don't have to pull the whole oven out and break all the caulking seals.
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- Customer:
- James from Lino Lakes, MN
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Bottom oven burner wouldn't light.
If your igniter glows but the burner doesn't light, your igniter is more than likely bad. It should have at least 3.2V to gas valve when the igniter is glowing in order to open the gas valve. The repair is very easy with only a 5/16" nut driver equired to remove and replace the igniter. It's pretty much a plug and play reair.
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- Customer:
- Charles from Alexandria, VA
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven Wouldn't Light. Smell Of Gas Before Lighting
First I went online to find out about the availability of the part. In my search, I found what others had experienced and how they repaired it. Second, I ordered the part and followed others stories on their repair efforts. Third, I unplugged the range and removed the racks. Fourth, I removed the bottom of the oven which lifts out back first. Fifth, I removed the wing nut securing the flame difusser making it easier to access the element. Sixth, I had read that others had problems saving the original screws and/or threaded holes. I sprayed some wd-40 on both screws. They came out and back in without a hitch. Seventh, I removed and replaced the element, snap out, snap in. Eighth, I turned on the oven. It took about 15 seconds to glow but wow, it lit 5 seconds after that. I am my wife's hero!
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- Customer:
- Thomas from Allison Park, PA
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Oven wouldn't heat. Igniter was broken.
I removed the back of the range to disconnect the wires to the igniter. Then I removed the two screws holding the igniter, screwed the new one in and reconnected the wires in back.
I was really pleased how easy it was to find the part on the website and how quickly the part came. The whole job was a snap. Thanks!
I was really pleased how easy it was to find the part on the website and how quickly the part came. The whole job was a snap. Thanks!
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- Customer:
- Billy from Grand Prairie, TX
- Parts Used:
- 7201P015-60
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Replaced appliance bulb in owen
Removed burnt bulb. On replacing the bulb I glued the bracket, retainer gasket and bulb cover together- I used only a small amount of glue-just enough to hold the three items together. You need to do this since the three items slip in your hand while you attempt to screw the bracket to the oven wall. Need my help, email me @ Lexidog999@tx.rr.com
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- Customer:
- Catherine from Newton, IL
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven ignitor would glow but took 30 - 40 mins to heat
It took me 10 mins to replace the oven igniter and I did it myself. Oven is working fine now. I saved myself a $300.00 repair bill. Thank you for making the part available and saving me dollars!
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