CGR1420BDQ Magic Chef Range - Instructions

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wire pull the old igniter out.
Install new igniter, by mounting to frame with two screws, feed the two wire assembly through the hole
behind the gas tube, reconnected the wires, oven started right up. PartSelect was great, received the part very fast and there feedback comments are a big help.

Make sure the knobs are all in the off position before starting the work. You may feel more comfortable shutting the gas valve off behind the stove or in the basement first, just make sure you fire the burner and let the gas that is left in the line burn off.
Remove bottom pan in oven by sliding the pins (located in the back) towards you and picking up the back of the pan and pull it away from you, this will slide the pan off of the other 2 pins that you can not see on your end of the pan. Take the flare shield off from over top of the gas line (should be 2 nuts or 1 wing nut). Remove the screw or screws that hold the heat shield covering the ignitor wires and remove the heat shield. Unplug the ignitor. remove the screws holding the ignitor and remove it. Be sure to order the ignitor with the extra shield and make sure it has new screws, you may need to replace the screws. Try not to touch the element of the ignitor. it can be very brittle. It seems lengthy but is very quick and simple.

removed 2 screws on element then unpluged it then replaced it with new one easy job

Once I got the new Igniter, I unplugged the old igniter and took two bolts out. Then remounted the new igniter and plugged it in. Works like a charm!!

Removed the old igniter, followed the wires. Reversed the process and put it back together. Saved big bucks! Thanks for the quick service.

Removed oven bottom were you see the light glowing from then unscrewed igniter unpluged then took it out and put in new one went well i would do it again works great

I simply pulled the stove away from the wall, disconnected the gas and electricity. Then took the pan out from stove. At which time I used a socket to remove the two srews and then unplugged the part from the back of the stove. After that, reattached the screws, plugged it in, reconnected the gas and electricity, and pushed the stove back against the wall. Fired up the oven and it has worked like a champ ever since!

First I tried oven ignitor. Did not cure the problem. Then ordered short sensor and it cured the problem. Pull range out & unplug unit.From inside unit remove two screws holding short sensor in &pull out from inside. Unhook sensor. Slide in new sensor& secure with two screws. Had to remove two screws on back of oven to plug in sensor to existing plug. Very simple job.

Tested power coming into unit,then tested power going to igniter,both of which were good.Did a continuity check of igniter element and found it to be bad.Ordered one from PartSelect,recieved it in minimum time,removed the old one,installed the new one,works like a champ.

Replaced gas oven ignitor

We ordered the replacement igniter and basically was very easy to replace. We ended up spending $50 for the part as opposed to spending $261.00 that Sears was going to charge.

First I unplugged the range, turned off the gas to the oven and disconnected the gas line from the oven. I pulled the oven out to gain access to the rear of the unit and unplugged the old igniter. Next, I removed the oven door, removed two screws to the floor of the oven and removed it. I then removed the metal covering above the gas component allowing full access to the igniter. I removed two screws from the igniter and removed it. I positioned the new igniter and replaced the two screws. I replaced the covering over the gas component, replaced the oven floor and put the oven door back on. I went to the rear of the unit and plugged in the new igniter. I then reconnected the gas line to the oven range and checked for leaks, No leaks were found and I pushed the oven unit back into place. I pushed the Bake button and the igniter started igniting the oven.

Job completed.

Checked troubleshooting guide on website / ordered part / replaced part by removing two screws in oven on bottom pan/ removed inside oven bottom for easiy access/ removed two screws from bracket holding down the heating element/separated the electrical plug in back releasing the wires to heating element/ installed the new element with two screws / connected the electrical plug/ installed the bottom panel inside oven / installed two screws inside oven on bottom panel. Checked operation of unit- gas lit ok - pushbutton panel did not increase heat seting properly/ dismantled the control panel / dismanteled the circuit board / found remains of several roaches inside circuit board recess/ cleaned all pushbutton points and re-assembled unit - all worked fine except when oven burner went off - the gas valve would not shut off completely - leaving a small flame burning at the gaaas valve orifice "DANGEROUS". I checked troubleshooting guide again / ordered a new valve - installed - (did not come with a new Propane orifice ) - had to use old one ( should have either asked me or just sent one when I ordered) - received new valve - installed with old Propane orifice - all works well now.

We took the interior floor out, pulled the stove away from counter, before that turned all electricity to the house off. Then we unscrewed the ignitor inside then underneath unplugged it and plugged in the new one, cleaned to oven and screwed the ignitor in and replaced the interior floor and we were done.

My oven would not work. It took longer & longer to fire, finally died. I did an online search & found partselect.com, with it's very helpful troubleshooting info, and somebody posted info that 80-90% of the time it's the ignitor that has failed. I ordered it Sunday night, it arrived Tuesday. I took the door off for easy access, took the bottom of the oven out, removed the flame shield and replaced the ignitor. I tested it and it worked! The hardest part was moving the stove away from the wall & threading the ignitor plug thru the back of the oven. The cheapest appliance repair visit would have been $89 + cost of parts. Sears charges $129. I think I saved at least $100, thanks to partselect.com.