55HN-1W Magic Chef Range - Instructions

Oven door is the removable type, so once removed the problem with the door was revealed. Metal on the bottom of the hinge had broken off where the hinge attaches to the pivot point on the oven door. The oven was pulled out a few inches from the cabinet and a cable attached to the top of the hinge and a spring on the rear of the oven was detached to remove old hinge. New hinge was installed and I was left with the task of attaching the spring cable. With an old piece of electrical wire, I formed a loop and reached back to the area where the spring was located. Then looped the spring with the wire and pulled forward which made it's attachment very easy. Pushed oven back into place and slid door back on hinge. Pretty easy with a little bit of help from an old piece of wire.

* Do not lose the supplied CERAMIC electric connecting nuts; they will not fry in the heat.

* Unplug the heating elements from the old receptacles, and remove any rings; unplug the cartridge by lifting up the back side and pulling gently toward the back of the stovetop.

* Unscrew the cartridge top from the cartridge base (about 12 screws) and the recepticals, and cut the old wire close to the old receptacle.

* If you have a spare magnetic thingy around, use it to hold the screws and not lose them.

* Screw in the new receptacles, route the newer wiring from the receptacles (use as much of the new wire as possible), back toward the wiring block on the cartridge plug.

* Recut the old wiring to accomodate the length of the new wiring, but leave at least 2-3" from the wiring block, if possible. Re-connect them using only the supplied CERAMIC electric nuts.

* The CERAMIC nuts allayed my fears about the effect of heat on a plastic nut; ceramic is designed for high-heat environments.

* Reverse the disassembly steps to reassemble and reinstall the cartridge.

I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

Lift burners out of plug discard old drip pans replace new drip pans into plugs and done .

Although normally a push fit, we drilled and tapped a #6-32 cross hole and used a set-screw to attach the small knob.

The original knob is still hiding somewhere but, thanks to PartSelect we are back in business !

Turned off oven power.Removed oven heat shield, element support clips and element mounting plate screws. Disconnected three element power wires and ground wire. Removed old element. Reversed removal procedure for new element install. Piece of cake.

Grandson spent 1/2 hour installing unit and 15 minutes of that time was trying to get the very short grounded screw to begin to thread. It was a very small space to work in and it kept falling out. The instructions were a lot to be desired - almost nothing. He went to YouTube and got very explicit instructions. Then he had no problem as to what to do. The unit is working great now.

Took out burner (pulls out) Took out one screw that holds recep. in, cut the two old wires and attached new wires with wire nuts included in the new package.

Turned off power at panel. Removed 2 Phillips screws holding broiler element support in place. Squirted 2 additional Phillips head screws attaching element to back of stove with WD-40 and removed screws. Slid element out to access electrical connection and used short phillips screwdriver to remove. Reattached electrical connection to new element with short screwdriver (no fun as you are cantilevered into the oven and have to hold the element, the screw and the screwdriver to do this). Slid element into support and screwed support to top of stove cavity to align element. Installed screws holding element onto back wall. Turned on power and ran element long enough to dissipate WD-40 fumes.

All went well except for error on instruction sheet.
Ground wire used on earlier Models attached to the ground lug is no longer used?? and should be removed!!! Guess what the ground wire has to be used or the element will not heat up.Soooo someone at the mfg. has no ideal what they are talking about,You have to ground the element or it will not come on.

Replaced drip pan. Notch did not want to match the burner notch. Was a close fit bit with a little pressure made it work.

Repair went fine, insert helped, just take your time and remember the way you took out. Started without takeing door off, I am to short and door comes off easy, unscrew the two screws holding element leaving one not quite off then the back two screws then go back to upper screw remove and element will pull out, remove 3 wires remembering the order, Wiring is a little tricky (in the stove-just 3 plugins), just pay attention and will go smooth. Then remove element and go backwards and presto your done.

remove two bracket screws, and remove bracket, the remove two mount screws for element. then remove the element. installed the element in reverse order that it was removed.

Stuck the new one into the plugin.

I unpluged the old burner and pluged the new one in. Repair done in about 2 min,