3121WPV Magic Chef Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Robert from Orange, CA
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Replacement of igniter
Removed two nuts and one screw to replace old igniter with new one. Replaced the nuts and screw. Turned on the oven, and it is working fine.
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- Customer:
- Vincent from Lewes, DE
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The broiler would not lite at all and the oven would lite occasionally but would not maintain temperature.
I replaced the igniter in both the oven and the broiler. This was my first time ever working on a range.
I removed the oven door for easy access. To replace the oven igniter, I took the bottom floor out of the oven. The igniter is readily visible at the rear of the burner. I removed the two screws holding the igniter with a socket wrench. The screws were somewhat stubborn but yielded rather quickly. I gently pulled the two wires attached to the igniter from the back of the oven until the connector was exposed. I disconnected the old igniter and connected the new one. Then I simply reversed the the procedure, tucking the connector and wire back through the hole it came from and re - installed the two screws in the bracket. The insulation provided with the kit was used to plug the hole in the back of the oven.
To replace the broiler igniter, I essentially followed the same procedure. However, I chose not to remove the broiler baffle. This made it more difficult to both remove and re-install the two screws holding the ignitor. Otherwise, everything else went smoothly. If I had to do it again, I'd remove the baffle.
I removed the oven door for easy access. To replace the oven igniter, I took the bottom floor out of the oven. The igniter is readily visible at the rear of the burner. I removed the two screws holding the igniter with a socket wrench. The screws were somewhat stubborn but yielded rather quickly. I gently pulled the two wires attached to the igniter from the back of the oven until the connector was exposed. I disconnected the old igniter and connected the new one. Then I simply reversed the the procedure, tucking the connector and wire back through the hole it came from and re - installed the two screws in the bracket. The insulation provided with the kit was used to plug the hole in the back of the oven.
To replace the broiler igniter, I essentially followed the same procedure. However, I chose not to remove the broiler baffle. This made it more difficult to both remove and re-install the two screws holding the ignitor. Otherwise, everything else went smoothly. If I had to do it again, I'd remove the baffle.
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- Customer:
- Maynard from Knox, IN
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
smell gas and sometimes a whoof on ignition
I removed the flame baffle , removed the two screws that held the ignitor. Then I pulled the wires thru the back wall and disconnected . I had to cut the the connector and install with wire nuts because connector was different. Works fine now .
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- Customer:
- jerry from staten island, NY
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
oven would not light , smell of gas
removed oven floor, removed two screws in element . pulled out element wires, secured them so they would not fall back into slot, snaped in new element . scewed it in place , replaced floor . thanks partselect.com
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- Customer:
- Ariel from Oxford, NJ
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven would'nt heat
First I removed the two screws that held the old element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.
I replaced the element with the new one and tucked the connector in the insulation. Additional insulation came with the kit. I replaced the two screws that held the element in placed. Oven worked perfectly
I replaced the element with the new one and tucked the connector in the insulation. Additional insulation came with the kit. I replaced the two screws that held the element in placed. Oven worked perfectly
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- Customer:
- Wayne from Long Grove, IL
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
smell gas on oven start up
took oven tray out and loosened igniter and replace same works great.
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- Customer:
- John from Racine, WI
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven did not ignite
Remove the door... it just pulls up and out... set the release tabs so you can remove the bottom plate .. pull out broiler drawer... unscrew the 2 screws on the igniter ..let that hang... remove the cover for the termination.. and unplug the old igniter... then reverse everything to put back together..
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- Customer:
- ALAN from LUCK, WI
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Igniter Would Glow But Stove Wouldn't Light
I noticed that the ignitor would glow but the stove wouldn't light - I got the model number of the stove and googled the maytag model number. Came upon your website and realized that 94% of the time the problem was the amps were not enough to light the stove. I looked at all of the stories on how easy it was to fix. I ordered the part and received it within 3 days. I opened the door part way and lifted it straight up to remove it. I pulled out the bottom broiler plate by grabbing the back on pulling up. I undscrewed the wing nut of the flame bar and had easy access to the igniter. I removed the two nuts from the old igniter. Unplugged the igniter from the easy access door from the back and plugged in the new igniter. Replaced the access door and attached the igniter with the two nuts. Put the flame bar back on, put the broiler plate back on, put the door back on, plugged in the stove turned it on and success. It was so easy. I know in our area I would have paid near $200 for a service technician to come out and do what I did in approx. 20 Minutes and $50 for the part. Thank you so much for you website to help us not so talented appliance repair homeowners.
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- Customer:
- James from Lino Lakes, MN
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Bottom oven burner wouldn't light.
If your igniter glows but the burner doesn't light, your igniter is more than likely bad. It should have at least 3.2V to gas valve when the igniter is glowing in order to open the gas valve. The repair is very easy with only a 5/16" nut driver equired to remove and replace the igniter. It's pretty much a plug and play reair.
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- Customer:
- Veronica from Miami Beach, FL
- Parts Used:
- 1430283
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Old and corroded drip pans
Furtunately, it was just a replacement of the drip pans. It changed the entite looks of my range for under $ 25.00 dollars. Very satisfied!
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- Customer:
- Brian from Pittsburgh, PA
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
Oven Ignitor went to ignitor heaven.
The repair was real easy, other than the old bolts which just turned in the sockets when trying to get them out. It might be a good idea to provide two nuts and bolts to negate this problem. I would not mind paying a dollar or two extra for two bolts and nuts. Other than that, the instructions were clear. Product arrived on time and I would absolutely use your services again. Oven is back to working great! Thank you!
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- Customer:
- Jason from Williamsburg, VA
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven making whooshing sound and not heating up
Pulled oven out from wall. Unplugged. Pulled out bottom drawer. Removed oven door by pulling up on angle. Removed bottom of oven. Removed old ignitor by taking out screws. Disconnected red and white wiring plastic coupler. Fed new wiring and connected. Mounted ignitor. Plugged back in. Very easy and worked!
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- Customer:
- Raymond from Jersey City, NJ
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
oven in range would not stay lit or achieve temperature
I slide range away from wall, unplugged the electric. Lifted door off the hinges for easy access. The broiler drawer also comes right out. Removed racks and then took out bottom panel. The ignitor is mounted with two hex nut screws. They came out with a phillips head screwdriver. The plug connector is accessable from the rear or the range, there was nothing else to take off. I simply unplugged the connection, pulled the wire through the insulation, screwed on the new ignitor and pushed the plug and wire back through the insulation and plugged it in. The job took less than 25 minutes and that time included cleaning behind, under and inside the range! Oven lit first time it was turned on and works as good as new.
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- Customer:
- Albert from Charlotte, TN
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
oven would not heat up
it was so easy my wife could do it!!!!!!!!
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- Customer:
- Anatoly from Palatine, IL
- Parts Used:
- 12400035
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Oven wouldn't ignite
1. Unplugged power cord and remove bottom oven tray.
2. Disengaged plastic connector from the back of the diverter valve.
3.Unscrewed two screws, holding present igniter.
4.Cut two wires, coming from the old igniter, with wire cutter (pliers).
5. Discarded old igniter assembly (in two parts -igniter and connector).
6. Attached connector part of new igniter to straightened coat hanger with insulation tape.
7. Fed the coat hanger from inside toward range back side by slightly displacing present oven insulation.
8. Removed coat hanger when got through.
9. Re-fastened new igniter with old screws.
10. Re-plugged plastic connector into diverter valve.
11. Re-plugged power cord and replace bottom tray.
Tested performance and am totally satisfied with the component and seller's service. There was no need for the extra materials in the kit.
2. Disengaged plastic connector from the back of the diverter valve.
3.Unscrewed two screws, holding present igniter.
4.Cut two wires, coming from the old igniter, with wire cutter (pliers).
5. Discarded old igniter assembly (in two parts -igniter and connector).
6. Attached connector part of new igniter to straightened coat hanger with insulation tape.
7. Fed the coat hanger from inside toward range back side by slightly displacing present oven insulation.
8. Removed coat hanger when got through.
9. Re-fastened new igniter with old screws.
10. Re-plugged plastic connector into diverter valve.
11. Re-plugged power cord and replace bottom tray.
Tested performance and am totally satisfied with the component and seller's service. There was no need for the extra materials in the kit.
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