CER3760ACQ Magic Chef Range - Instructions

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

Video showed element being unplugged from inside oven. My oven wires did not extend into oven cavity and they fell behind the back oven wall when I unplugged them. After trying to catch the two wires using needle nose pliers through 3/4" holes several times, I finally decided to take the complete back off the range. When I did this, I was able to see the wires with the female couplings. I then had my wife firmly hold the new element against the back of the oven from inside letting me connect the wires to the new element and replace the oven back. THIS WOULD HAVE QUALIFIED AS "EASY" AND A 15 TO 30 MINUTE JOB if this technique had been known from the outset.

I followed peoples instructions here, and it was not very difficult.

First, the diagram on your website said remove two screws. The diagram looked like they were on the back of the stove on each side. On my stove there were three screws that were visible under the front lip upon opening the oven door. I removed the top, which comes completely off and set it aside. Be careful when removing the top. Don't drag it out, otherwise you'll tear up the asbestos around the other burners. Two people would be better for the inexperienced people. The new elements have been redesigned, so the diagram doesn't fit what you are looking at. Plus, the diagram on paper is looking underneath the element when you are looking down on the top of the element. I removed one wire and put it in the same spot on the new. Turned out it was not the element that was bad. It was a loose wire in the inside of the control panel.

I checked out Maytag.com - found the parts page on my computer - found the top oven element - ordered it from Part Select - it arrived just a few days later......

Before it arrived, I removed the damaged electric element from top of oven - easy.

Oven was ready for me to install new element - the video on your website was perfect - it helped me remove the old & install the new element from Part Select. It took me about an hour.

Thank you for your fast service, good instructions & the video!

I'm an 84 year old female. Did this by myself! Thank you!

Removed old hinges, fabricated new mounting plates from 16ga steel plate. . . Cut new hinges to fit in available space. . . Drilled and tapped new mounting holes and adjustment tracks. . . Shortened existing springs to fit new configuration. Installed new hinges.

Had to remove oven from mounting cabinet to get to the back since the wire lenght to the conector was to short to come through the mounting hole.
Other than that the repair was straight forward. 4 screws to dismount the Oven from cabinet, 2 screws to remove Sensor and 3 srews to open the back of the oven once out in the open. New cable adapter that came with the new sensor was needed in my case.

I've been trying to remove the bracket at the roof of upper oven so I can get to the broiler element itself. The screws are in place so tight, the won't move. I've used regular as well as ratchet screwdrivers and the screws still won't move. I don't want to spray WD 40 in oven because of a possible fire hazard, so I haven't changed out element yet. Tried calling customer service for advise, but to no avail. All other screws loosen easily. What should I do next.

First off, I ordered the part to be delivered 2-3 business days. I ordered this online on Sunday, so I figured it wouldn't show up until at the earliest on Thursday. We got it on Tuesday. Fantastic. Once I got it I pulled the range out and unplugged it. Next I removed the two screws holding the old element in place with a phillips screw driver. Pulling the old element out carefully I removed the two wires from either end. Next I attached the wired to the new element and screwed in place. Fast and easy! Plugged the range back in and we were cooking.

Flipped off breaker and removed oven door and pulled built in stove out so the back panel could be removed. Unplugged the sensor then removed the two screws securing the old sensor inside the oven and installed new sensor. Put stove back together and installed back into counter top, re-installed oven door, flipped on the breaker and oven works like new.

1) Unplugged the electrical cord and removed the oven door (only when easy); and, jockeyed the oven into better working area.
2) Removed about 9 screws holding rear sheetmetal backing plate to disconnect each of 2 electrical wires from the old element.
3) Removed 2 screws holding element to back of oven and 2 screws from small bracket supporting end of element to top of oven.
4) Replacement element was severely damaged. It was at the very bottom of a box 20 by 15 by 15.5 inches high with the large continuous bubble wrap stacked only on top. Each of the wire ends were sharply bent; one almost 180 deg. pointing in the opposite direction, and the other about 120 deg. The element itself was about 4-5 inches out of square. Using two large needlenose pliers I carefully bent each wire back to its proper place. Next I carefully exerted pressure on the element to gradually form it back to as near its correct shape as possible. (Only the inside of the shipping box showed the signs of possible damage.)
5) Installation- The element, from inside the oven, was placed back through the two holes in the rear of the oven and secured with 2 screws.
6) The bracket supporting the front of the element was slid onto the element and attached to the top of the oven.
7) Attached the 2 electrical oven wires to the 2 element wires, making sure there was good clearance to prevent any short circuit, plugged the oven cord in to 230volts, and checked it out with power to the broiler to give myself some confidence that the damaged wires would not quickly break. It seemed to work and I unplugged the oven.
8) Reinstalled the backing plate with the original screws, plugged oven back in, and moved the oven back to its place and replaced its door. It is working and my wife is cooking.

Removed the oven from the wall. Removed back cover and unplugged sensor from the harness. Remove and replace sensor from inside the oven. Reconnect harness and reinstall back cover. Secure oven back into the wall.

Very easy to repair, but you have to be able to pull your stove out. Two screws in the oven and then remove part of back cover of oven and one plug from there. Simple to do, but did not fix our problem. We are waiting repair now from service company as it looks like it needs a control panel. Worth trying yourself to fix the problem. Inexpensive part and easy to install. Also be sure to turn power off your oven to reset the control panel as this may fix the problem - try this first and also after installing new part - like rebooting a computer...

Replaced the long Oven Sensor but have not resolved the root problem. Oven still will not reach required temperature. Bottom element becomes red hot, but turns off and will not start again.

Shut off the power to the stove. Remove the two screws retaining coil
And simply pulled the coil out exposing the wire clips. The wires detach easily
Reconnected to the new coil, pushed the coil back in, reintalled the retainer screws and
Done. Time: ten minutes