CGR3760ADW Magic Chef Range - Instructions

I used this part on a little, under-counter U-line ice maker that is the best little ice maker in the world. The single solenoid part from U-line cost more than twice as much as the generic GE one I ordered from you. It arrived in only 2 days and I was able to just remove the inlet and outlet line from the old solenoid and unscrew the bracket to remove it. I used the included bracket and one screw affix the new one to the ice maker, then just pushed on the inlet and outlet lines, tightened them on, plugged it back in and In about 20 minutes from start to finish, it was back in business, cranking out ice really quick as it was before. Could not imagine summertime in Texas without my U-line,,,Thank you!!!

So simple! I really had no idea what the problem was. I found the PartsSelect site, read the comments from fellow Maytag double oven owners, diagnosed the problem as the sensor and ordered the part. It arrived in only two days! We removed the back of the stove, pulled the old sensor through, plugged the new one in and YAY the oven is like new. I have to admit most of the repair time involved sweeping up the dog hair that had accumulated under the stove.

I used the other good burner assembly to isolate the problem to the igniters or the igniter block. I ordered both parts from Parts Select. They shipped the parts promptly and after 10 minutes of install time, the burners worked flawlessly.
Thank You Parts Select.

slide out stove remove rear cover (6 screws) to access sensor plug . remove two screws from inside oven area and remove part,replace in reverse order.

Unplugged the stove and unscrew the 2 screws on the thermometer inside the stove and unplugged the white plastic in the back of the stove and I had to put the new extra piece that came with the sensor kit as it was needed because the socket were different.

unplug unit remove rear panel screws lift up stove top remove top two screws remove panel remove two hinge screws remove replace hinge and follow in reverse order

Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.

Removed door from oven by pulling up at the first stop point after opening the door. Removed the outer shell by removing 5 screws. Disassembled the inner door by removing 6 screws. Be careful with the insulation blanket (fits in a molded portion of the inner door). Glass windows can be removed (for cleaning) via a couple screws. Old gasket/seal is held in-place via spring-clips; just squeezed each clip, pushed each thru their respective holes, and pulled off the worn-out gasket. New gasket snapped in-place by pushing the clips thru the respective holes. Reverse the process to reassemble the door. You can do this job in 15-20 minutes. Took us longer because it took some elbow-grease (and patience) to clean the crud off the glass windows.

The flame holder twists about 1/2 inch to left and lifts off. I removed the two screws that holds the igniter on and removed it and installed the new igniter.
There was one complication: when I put it back together, there was no spark. I removed the ground wire and cleaned and scraped it and replaced it and still no spark. But, for no apparent reason the spark returned and has been okay since.

I killed power
Pulled the back panel
Pulled the door off
pulled light socket wires
reached in and bent in light socket tabs
knocked out light socket
slide in new socket
lifted top of stove (glass)
disconnected glass top wiring
pulled off glass top
pulled both side panels
removed both hinges,
installed new hinges
reinstalled side panels
reinstalled glass top,
reinstalled light socket wiring
installed back panel
installed door
restored power

Waited for my husband to do it, but when he didn't, I tried it. Very simple! Just pulled the old gasket out of the pinch pin holes in the door, then replaced it. Tuck the one end into the hole at the bottom of the door, then match up the little pinch pins on the gasket with the holes in the door - matches up perfectly! Be sure to tuck in each of pinch pins till they sort of "snap" into each hole. Took me 5 minutes, tops. Works great now, no more lost heat around the edge of the door.

The gas valve (recently new from partselect) wouldn't open, or sometimes it would open just enough to let some gas escape! I read from others that just because the igniter was glowing, it might not be putting out enough voltage to trip the gas valve. A check of this confirmed that it was sending just over 3V to the valve - not enough to fully open it. I felt confident that springing for the $60 would solve the problem once and for all. After replacing the igniter, the oven lights in 10 sec or less, and this is a 26-year-old appliance! PartSelect to the rescue again!

Put a new one in.

1. Grab the old burner and twist counter-clockwise. 2. Unplug the wire from the old igniter, simply pull off. 3. Take new burner/igniter (this new one comes all-in-one) and reattach the wire to the igniter underneath. 4. Place the burner so the 'nubs' line up with the stove top and then twist clockwise a short amount, it should turn slightly to lock in place. 5. Test. Mine sparked and started better than it has since i have had the stove

TOOK OVEN BOTTOM APART AND LOSSENED OLD IGNITERTHEN WENT TO BACK OF OVEN TOOK BACK OFF DISCONETED OLD IGNITER PULLED THE NEW THUR AND CONNECTED PUT BACK ON THEN ATTACHED FROM THE FRONT PUT OVEN BACK TOGATHER THEN TURNED OVEN ON IT WORKED I DID IT MYSELF I AM 64 YEAR OLD WOMEN