3221WPV Magic Chef Range - Instructions

Removed the two screws that support the hot surface igniter. Removed the rear cover to disconnect the igniters wire harness and removed old igniter. Installed replacement igniter by fastening with the old screws and sending the plug harness through the ovens rear opening. Connected igniter into the harness and installed the rear cover.

Unpluged then stove, turned of the gas.Unpluged the igniter from the harness, unscrewed the igniter and pulled it out through the front of the stove.Installed in reversed order.Stove works like new. The part got to Alaska in 2 days. Thank you for your service.

My brother-in-law did the repair as I am a scardy-cat and didn't want to tackle it myself. The most difficult part of the repair was the awkward position you have to get your body in to do the repair. Other than that it was a piece of cake.

Removed Old Igniter and installed new one, parts and connector fit fine, no modifications needed.

Using a remote digital thermometer, noted that the oven temp reached operating temp, then fell 40-50 degrees, was slow to recover. After reading entries from others on your web site, removed oven floor and watched the burner operation. The igniter would light the gas at first, the temp would go up, gas would shut off. Then when the igniter came on again, it would glow for a long time before gas would come on.The replacement was very simple, even though one of the mounting screws twisted off, the remaining screw seems to be holding.Was a simple unplug old connector, insert new connector. The optional parts included in the kit were not needed.

Came to this website to look for possible cause. The major fault for my problem was the igniter @ 61% of the time. So, I ordered this part @ about $55. Opened the range floor, removed two nut screws and old igniter, by unpluging. Plugged in new part reattached screws and tested before putting it back together. Worked fine, without snags. However I did pull up and remove oven door for complete access to oven.

Rick,
Detroit, MI.

Fist I removed the screws on the front-sides of the oven. Then I turned off the gas, by adjusting the in-line valve. I then unscrewed the gas fitting going into the bottom of the oven. I pulled the oven out, being careful not to put too much pull on the electrical cord. I put a bench in front of the oven and set it down.
I then removed the oven racks, and the plate in the bottom. Bottom element is bake, top element is broil. I unscrewed the igniter, then disconnected its plastic wire connector on the back of the oven, then pushed and pulled the connector into the oven and out the door.
Then I ordered my part for $30 less than Sears from PartSelect, and it got here STUPID FAST. I hooked it up and put everything back together, no big deal, BOOM - Cornbread!

remove racks out of the oven. remove very bottom of oven and you will then have access to the ignitor.the part was a little difficult to remove due to the self tapping screws snapping upon removal.drilled them out and installed new ignitor.oven now works fantastic.

removed door (pull up and out), removed all racks and bottom of oven, removed two screws holding old igniter, unplugged old igniter from harness, mounted new igniter using two screws and nuts purchased from local hardware store, plugged new igniter into harness, replaced bottom of oven and trays, slid oven door down over hinges. Oven works properly. Thanx!

Our oven failed to cook in the Bake mode. I was thinking I needed to have a repairman come service it. I got the product manual & begin to do some research. I thought the problem was was in the control panel until a parts search took me to the Parts Select website where I read the other successful repair stories & the most likely reason it did not work. It was real simple. The only problem I had was a screw that held the ignitor stripped & I had to cut the head off. The directions sent with the part were dead on. I then simply installed new ignitor & presto - it works! My wire connection required stripping the wires & using the ceramic wirenuts. I am glad I found Part Select & will call again when needed!! Thanks !!

During removal of the original ignitor the screws would not come out. they were rusted. using some liquid wrenchI tried to remove them again and they broke. Using an angle drill and special bits I was able to drill out the screws. I re- tapped the holes and the repair was simple. My wiring required additional insulation over the supplied wiring that came with the new ignitor. Cut the wires about 1 1/2 inches from the plug and added the insulation then replaced the plug with the provided wire nuts. Mounted the new unit and all tested perfectly. Closed up oven and operates perfect as if new.

My oven would no longer ignite, and I asked a friend to help me see if we could fix it. We found an appliance repair manual online (www.appliancerepair.net), and it described that the most likely part needing replacement was the ceramic igniter - they do wear out, and my oven was - after all - over 20 yrs old, with never a repair! Then, somehow I found this PartSelect website, and after entering the make and model number, it showed the part, with a drawing, and dimensions - enough for me to be convinced it was the right part. I called and was reassured that if it were not the right part, it would be easy to return / refund. So, I ordered the part, standard shipping .... and to my great surprise, it was delivered the VERY NEXT DAY to my front door! And this was right before Christmas, a very busy time! The oven works like a charm now..... (I also had to clean out some of the gas holes, which can build up residues over time.) This repair cost less than $50, I'm sure if an appliance repair person came out it would have been more like $200 - not worth it for an oven this old. So, I'm happy with PartSelect!

Remove the the drawer of the gas range on the bottom, on the right side there is a alluminum cover with a bunch wires, held on with two screws,inside is the igniter kit module, make sure you unplug the range from the wall . unplug the wires from the unit and plug the new unit up and you are finish.Good luck.

First, I removed the racks, door, bottom drawer, and lifted the bottom pan up and out from the rear. Then, I unscrewed the bottom cover for the electrical stuff (under where the drawer is) as this is where the connector for the igniter is. I did a voltage test on the oven side of the connector, finding voltage there I removed the igniter by removing the 2 screws holding it to the burner. (pack lunch for that part, they will be rusted, I used a mini grinder to cut off the heads). Then I pulled the connector through the hole, and installed new igniter using self drilling screws. After i repacked the insulation, I put it back together, and it lit right up. The failed one had a bad ballast, confirmed by a continuity test.

I was worried over the fact that my oven was filling up with propane but taking a long time to light. One day it didn't light for over ten minutes. I shut it off and put the still frozen pizza back in the freezer. That's it, I thought. I'm not going to use the oven again until it's fixed.

I looked online and ordered the part. It came within two days time,even though it was a weekend during the holiday season. My husband spent about 15 minutes with his head in the oven and then said it was fixed.

I baked several batches of Christmas cookies and three coffee cakes the next day.