B38HN-42TXW Magic Chef Range - Instructions

removed old and installed new

I removed the old thermostat and replaced it with the new one using the supplied wiring adapter for my model of range. Parts Select made this an easy project. Thanksyou

Was easy cut the wires of as told to do wire nut the ends together and put back together and tested and worked great. Done

Range is a 1967 model Maytag. First I removed drawer under oven, unplugged the range and pulled it out from the wall. Removed oven door by positioning it in the partly-open detent position, then pulled up to remove the door. Next I removed 7 screws per side panel: 3 in front and 3 in back, and one on top under cooktop, which retains the cooktop hold-down clip. With side panels removed, I noted the oven door spring position on the intact left side, then replaced the right-side spring first using the same spring adjustment positions. As I replaced the spring, I applied lithium grease to the spring hook pivot points as well as the spring coils where they rub against the interior wall. I repeated the process on the left side. I reassembled the side panels, oiled the door hinges and reinstalled the oven door. Reinstalled range and bottom drawer. The oven door operates like new, and the new springs are totally quiet — good for another 47 years!

used drill to remove old screw

Slid oven out from counters. On each side there are 3 screws on the front and three screws on the back holding the side piece on. Once off, the spring was very easy to get at and replace. I had only one broken, but replaced both anyways. I think it took longer to clean the sides of the oven that haven't been touched in years than to replace the springs. This job was very simple and easy.

Unplug stove from outlet!! Removed screws (Phillips head) from prior element and pulled out enough to slip of the red and white wires. Keep in mind which side which is on and take old element out of oven. Put new element in and attach wires back on the same sides. Push back in and use screwdriver (Phillips head) to lift insulation to push wires and element prongs back. Put screws back in, close oven door and plug stove back in. Tested and works great!

Replace the oven sensor per the excelent easy video you provided

Watching the video of how to replace the sensor was great help and much appreciated, the only difference was that my wires were much shorter and I had to pull the oven out of the cabinet to get to the back of the oven to release the clip holding the wires together, unlike the video where the man jiggled the wires until the clip holding the wires together came through the little slot where the probe is attached, otherwise it was pretty simple, just a few extra steps to pull the oven forward to get to the rear to release the clip holding the wires together. Once I was able to release the clip I used one of the 2 adapters that was sent with the sensor probe and attached them after putting the wires through the hole where the probe was attached first then replaced the 2 screws that holds the sensor in place, slid the oven back in and turned the circuit breaker back on and it works perfectly. The video gave me the confidence to do this job though and I thank PartSelect very much for being a great company to help with videos and sending the parts so quickly.

I replaced the oven sensor which was easy to replace. A pigtail wire was provided with the sensor which is intended to be installed first so you don't have to reach around the front and back of the oven at the same time. The replacement was easy. However, that turned out not to be the problem. The real problem was the maytag electronic clock control timer, temperature control unit. The part number is 7601P177-60. This device has been discontinued and I was fortunate enough to find the part at a local supplier. Once I replaced this, the problem went away. The oven heats up normally. My original symptom was that when setting the oven temperature to something like 350 degrees, the display would rapidly report heating up the oven to that temperature, and the oven was only mildly warm. If you have that symptom, it is probably not the oven sensor. It is the electronic clock unit. Hope you can find one. If you can't, I think you need to by a new oven. Regards

1. Removed racks 2. Removed two screws holding in the bake element. 3. Gently pulled out the element exposing the two wires connected to it. 4. The two wires were held by a clip connection. 5. Removed the wire clips holding the wires. 6. Attached the clips to the new element and re-installed the element. New problem: The element did not heat up. A repairman informed me that the selector switch was damaged during the burnout- that switch was no longer manufactured and was discontinued. Whirlpool company was checked and indicated that there was a new part # 7403P023-60 but that was discontinued too. I was able to get the element working by moving the selector switch to the "Bake" position and then moving the switch about 1/4" in the clockwise direction. The element heated and the oven works at least for now as I search for a replacement part. PartSelect was an invaluable aid and helpful all along the process.

Followed video

Shut off power at breaker box. Removed top burner unit. Removed old receptacle (Mounting screw was rusty so I drilld out the old one.) Cut wires from old unit. Stripped wires back on old unit. Attached old and new wire with ceramic wire nut. Attached new unit. Reinserted top unit. Reconnected power and "voila". Wife was smiling again.

10 Minutes for a stove my landlord thought was not fixable (repairman had already cut the wires to the element and capped them)! The delivery person handed me the package, I got out the single tool needed, installed the part, put away the tool, cleaned my hands, and put a pot of water on the stove to boil for pasta. 10 minutes!

Starting by me making a substitute prong to keep the stove working while the part this coming by mail. was a piece of cake.