31211WAV Magic Chef Range - Instructions

Replaced the oven ignitor. Toughest part was removing old screws.

Came to this website to look for possible cause. The major fault for my problem was the igniter @ 61% of the time. So, I ordered this part @ about $55. Opened the range floor, removed two nut screws and old igniter, by unpluging. Plugged in new part reattached screws and tested before putting it back together. Worked fine, without snags. However I did pull up and remove oven door for complete access to oven.

Rick,
Detroit, MI.

i removed old part, then installed new one. easy

1. Unscrewed glass cover on bulb
2. Removed old bulb
3. Screwed in new bulb
4. Replaced glass cover
5. Mixed drink & baked cupcakes

1. Pulled the bottom plate out of of the oven (plate separating oven and broiler). 2.Remove the gas tube. 3.Remove back plate found at the bottom of the inside of the oven (4 screws). 4. Remove igniter from bracket and disconnect wires. 5. Connect wires from new igniter to oven (2 wires). 6. Connect new ignighter back to bracket and 7. re-assemble steps 3,2,1. Easy

well my brother was over,he said he had the same stove with the same symtoms so we removed bottom tray of oven lifting from the back first then the front.there inback is the igniter.pulled wire out carefully and unplugged and unscrewed 2 small bolt's,replaced igniter remembering it is very fragile,plugged igniter in replaced insulation around wire,saved me from a new oven,thank you partsselect.ps part arrived the next day wow

I removed the oven door and floor, removed the two screws holding the old part in place, unplugged it from the wiring harness and plugged in the new part and replaced the screws. Fixed in 5 minutes.

I was afraid I would have to remove the built in oven from the wall to do the repair but it was simple. I pulled on the wire a bit and the connector popped out of the hole in the back. After that it was as simple as removing 2 screws, replacing the unit, plugging it in and pushing the new connection out the hole in the back. They included a piece of insulation with the kit that I then forced into the hole to protect the new plug from the heat of the oven.

Much easier than I thought it was going to be. In about 10 minutes I had the oven working again.

I removed the two screws holding the ignighter on, pulled it a few inches, disconnected the plug, plugged the new ignighter in, tightened the two screws, turned on the power, and it worked. 1,2,3.

Pulled out the plug, pulled out the stove, removed the oven door, pulled out the lower shelf and racks. Used a nutdriver to remove the 2 screws from the bracket, disconnected the old ignitor, new ignitor was an exact replacement, put back in the screws, pushed back the stove and plugged it back in....Was back in business in a matter of seconds!!

I removed the various trays and racks to gain access to the oven igniter. I removed the one screw that held the wiring in place that goes into the body of the oven and pulled out the wires. I removed the wire nuts and safe ended the hot wires. I removed the two screws that held the igniter in place and replaced it with the new one. I reconnected the wiring with the wire nuts , pushed the wiring back into the body of the and stuffed new packing material into hole and reattached the plate on the back of the oven. Turned on the oven and it ignited immediately. A very easy job to complete. I would suggest to others to turn off the power. I knew what I was doing by working it "hot".

Figured it had to be the ignitor. I didn't use a multi-meter. Since the appliance was so old, if the $50 igniter didn't do the trick, I'd just replace the oven. Install was super easy, and now oven works great!!!

Broiler lighting fine but main oven burner not lighting. I deduced the oven igniter was most likely the point of failure. Decided to replace empirically rather than time and money for service call. Process was about as easy as replace a computer part. Removed pan and flameguard. Unplugged part from below (after removing drawer). Such a simple plug I didn't bother to throw the breaker / power down the oven. Pulling it out to get to wall plug not an option. Unscrewed old part, saw a flaw had developed in the element. Screwed on the new part, plugged it in, inserted insulation in the hole. Tested for lighting - lit first time. Replaced guard and pan, oven has worked reliably since. Research time was 5x the repair time, but in all a fraction of time and money to have a "pro."

snaped them into oven cavity attached temp bulb job complete

very easy