CER3540ACA Magic Chef Range - Instructions

I actually had to hire someone to fix the problem. My stove happened to be one of those they describe on the internet where the wires were not long enough to pull out. Had I tried it would have become a major repair job. The repairman had to use needle nose pliers to grab ahold of the wires and get them out far enough. All went well though and he only charged $25.00.

Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.

Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

Removed door from oven by pulling up at the first stop point after opening the door. Removed the outer shell by removing 5 screws. Disassembled the inner door by removing 6 screws. Be careful with the insulation blanket (fits in a molded portion of the inner door). Glass windows can be removed (for cleaning) via a couple screws. Old gasket/seal is held in-place via spring-clips; just squeezed each clip, pushed each thru their respective holes, and pulled off the worn-out gasket. New gasket snapped in-place by pushing the clips thru the respective holes. Reverse the process to reassemble the door. You can do this job in 15-20 minutes. Took us longer because it took some elbow-grease (and patience) to clean the crud off the glass windows.

Plugs in easily, screws to secure

Very easy repair. Turn the power off to the oven, take out two screws and unhook electrical connections. Replace with the new baking element and you are done. Takes only about 10 minutes and the oven works like new.

Bought bottom element as suggested. Instruction video seemed straight forward. Not exactly.When I unscrewed the element and gently pulled it out to access the connector, one came out an inch or two, however the left side would not slide out. Tugged a little and it released the connector which jumped back inside the oven. Had to slide the oven out from counter, remove a rear covering plate (2 screws and no problem) and found the new element connectors protruded through the rear of the stove for connection. They were covered by the large rear plate I had removed. Screwed the plate back on and, slid the stove back into position, restored power and all was good. Stove heats properly. Happy.

removed screws and disconnected the wires removed element and did the replacement less than 15 minutes, and cost less than locally by 25.00 and received part the next day. EXCELLENT

Put a new one in.

After watching the instructional video (and flipping the breaker to my range) it was straight forward and simple. The heating element was a little bent so didn’t originally sit square/flat to the bottom of the oven so I uninstalled, bent it gently a little and reinstalled and it set down flat. It still didn’t take 15 minutes.

From reading other reviews i thought I would have to dis-assemble the door but when I saw the new part I realized I would not have to, simply pop the beveled clips w/pocket knife and pop in the new seal clips. the ends tucked very nicely, an 80+ yr. old would have no trouble if they had their wits.

The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.

1. Shut the breaker off; Jenn-Air's design will have you working around hot leads if you don't.
2. Raise the control panel
3. Remove burner and unscrew the burner connector; trace the wires back to the control panel bottom and remove them
4. On the replacement connector, add the electrical for the control panel. These are not included and can be found at any hardware store; they are a standard size.
5. Connect the new wires and put everything back together.
6. Reset the break and test.

I was pleased with how the job went.
It took longer than expected because I am not really a "do it yourselfer", but I studied the door and reread how others managed the repair several times.
There were more screws than mentioned here.
Someone said 10 screws but there were 12.
In the end I was pleased and surprised how simple the job was, but recommend others read carefully what others have written. I didn't but learned one must.

just plugged it in!