5651XUW Magic Chef Range - Instructions

1. Shut the breaker off; Jenn-Air's design will have you working around hot leads if you don't.
2. Raise the control panel
3. Remove burner and unscrew the burner connector; trace the wires back to the control panel bottom and remove them
4. On the replacement connector, add the electrical for the control panel. These are not included and can be found at any hardware store; they are a standard size.
5. Connect the new wires and put everything back together.
6. Reset the break and test.

just plugged it in!

swap a known good coil around and still did not work. then measured voltage across the switch terminals and found out one leg was opened. Ordered a new switch which looked alike. The new switch could handle more current than the old one. Turned out that all terminals of the new switch were same size while the old one had 1 smaller size. Used the dremer tool to file it to fit the wire terminal. Also the burner knob had different grove type . Just forced it in.

Chose rubber flexible gasket with metal tabs. cut to size. unscrewed metal bracket on inside oven edge on 3 sides, slipped metal tabs between oven and metal and screwed back in. Done! Not a perfect fit but pretty good - better than no gasket.

Removed front panel of range, removed switch (2 screws), unclipped wires from back of existing switch. Installed new switch - reverse order of above.

I watched the video on the web site and it worked like a dream. Two screws to take out - disconnect wires put back connecting wires and replace the screws again. Just like the video. Thanks

Went online to find replacement part. (Because I’m cheap) Came across the website, found the part by model number, and watched the wonderful replacement video that was right on the same page as the part. After the part arrived, (in just a couple of days) I put the new one in. Only took a couple of minutes! Perfection! Thanks for making my problem, no problem at all!

I had viewed the video link on PartsSelect. I removed 2 screws and proceeded to pull element out to disconnect wire connectors. However one side the wire connected was melted on to the contact tab of the element and the wire was broken off. I proceeded to remove back panel from stove and located the exposed broken wire. I stripped back wire and installed a new wire connector that I had in my tool box. I fed wire through small hole. Then I re-installed back panel. I then connected wires to the new bake element and installed element mounting screws.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

I got the run around about my HARWICK stove at several part stores. Like they all said the same thing (cant look it up just bring it down) So i did and then they would say, what's the model number. ERR! SO my wife found parts select on the web and they beat the three price quotes I got. First turn the power off to the stove!!! The repair was simple. Just remove the two screws on both side's and pull the element out but just enough for the wire's to show. Disconnect the two wire's and pull the element out. Reverse the processes but when wire's are reconnected squeeze terminals end gently to ensure a good connection. This is a great company to deal with, I will be using them again. Thanks and good luck!!!

I was pleased as punch that PartSelect had the missing control knob for one of my apartment ranges. I probably should have ordered a complete set of control knobs because now one is much cleaner than the rest.

I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

* Do not lose the supplied CERAMIC electric connecting nuts; they will not fry in the heat.

* Unplug the heating elements from the old receptacles, and remove any rings; unplug the cartridge by lifting up the back side and pulling gently toward the back of the stovetop.

* Unscrew the cartridge top from the cartridge base (about 12 screws) and the recepticals, and cut the old wire close to the old receptacle.

* If you have a spare magnetic thingy around, use it to hold the screws and not lose them.

* Screw in the new receptacles, route the newer wiring from the receptacles (use as much of the new wire as possible), back toward the wiring block on the cartridge plug.

* Recut the old wiring to accomodate the length of the new wiring, but leave at least 2-3" from the wiring block, if possible. Re-connect them using only the supplied CERAMIC electric nuts.

* The CERAMIC nuts allayed my fears about the effect of heat on a plastic nut; ceramic is designed for high-heat environments.

* Reverse the disassembly steps to reassemble and reinstall the cartridge.

Unplug the 220 cord..remove rear metal back ( 7-8 Ph/screws)... disconnect the red & yellow connectors from the back of the lower element. Remove-the-lift-off Oven door. Remove the two Ph/screws (one on either end of the element) At the very rear of the oven. Install the new element and reverse the about to reassemble.

Unplugged the range. Took our the oven shelves. Unscrewed the bars holding the broken bake element to the back of the oven wall. Gently pulled out the wiring to which the bake element is attached. Slipped the ends of the broken bake element off the ending on the wiring. Then slipped the ends of the new bake element over the ends on the wiring. Then pushed the wiring with attached bake element back into their position behind the oven wall and attached the bars holding the bake element to the back of the oven wall. This is really easy because it is exactly like the on-line video, for I am a 75 year old female with little technical experience.