CER3525ACW Magic Chef Range - Instructions

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

Put the back of stove on blocks of wood to get high enough to screw the new leg in.

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

Video showed element being unplugged from inside oven. My oven wires did not extend into oven cavity and they fell behind the back oven wall when I unplugged them. After trying to catch the two wires using needle nose pliers through 3/4" holes several times, I finally decided to take the complete back off the range. When I did this, I was able to see the wires with the female couplings. I then had my wife firmly hold the new element against the back of the oven from inside letting me connect the wires to the new element and replace the oven back. THIS WOULD HAVE QUALIFIED AS "EASY" AND A 15 TO 30 MINUTE JOB if this technique had been known from the outset.

I followed peoples instructions here, and it was not very difficult.

Take out 2 screws. Unplug the old element, plug in the new one and put the screws back in.

Removed old hinges, fabricated new mounting plates from 16ga steel plate. . . Cut new hinges to fit in available space. . . Drilled and tapped new mounting holes and adjustment tracks. . . Shortened existing springs to fit new configuration. Installed new hinges.

Extremely simple repair to make. Move stove away from wall and disconnect power. Remove the oven racks. Remove the rear sheet metal panel covering the wiring harnesses. Caution: Sharp edges and corners on sheet metal.Sensor is located in upper left corner on rear oven wall. Using a long-shafted #2 Philips screwdriver, remove the two Philips head screws and gently pull the sensor 1" away from the oven wall. At this point, it will help to have an assist from someone while you are behind the range. Have the assistant gently tug on the sensor while you watch for wires moving on the rear of the range. After locating the sensor wires, gently disconnect the plastic connector clip. Note: plastic connectors become brittle with age and exposure to heat Move to front of range and gently remove sensor from rear wall by pulling the wiring through the oven wall. Before inserting the new sensor wire through the oven wall, "dry fit" the wiring connectors to see that the new sensor is a correct connection. Make connection, and secure the sensor to the rear oven wall with the two screws. Install racks, reinstall rear sheet metal panel, and connect the power. Set the oven baking temperature to a moderately low temp, 300 - 350 deg. to test the new sensor.

Just took the old one out and put the new one in. Very easy!

My daughter repaired it without any problems.

I removed the two screws that held the element bracket in place. I then pulled the element out a few inches and disconnected the wires. I then reconnected the wires to the new baking element, pushed the wires back inside the oven and resecured the bracket. NOTE: turn off the power to the oven! I thought that since the oven was not on, I could safely perform this replacement...unfortunately I got zapped.

After trying to set the bake temp after the self cleaning, it would not heat up. I Googled the model number,selected your link because it mentioned my symptom,and said usually it is the temp sensor in the oven that gets damaged by the high self cleaning heat. Your site had a place to enter my model number. You provided a great exploded view of the parts, showing me my sensor,then you provided the part number of the kit i needed,and filled out the order form with payment method. Less than a week later I got my part with instructions. Your video showed me the two screws I remove from the front ,and I pulled the old part out and uplugged it's connector. Replacement was easy, and oven was fixed! Thank you for a great site! You held my hand through it all!

I've been trying to remove the bracket at the roof of upper oven so I can get to the broiler element itself. The screws are in place so tight, the won't move. I've used regular as well as ratchet screwdrivers and the screws still won't move. I don't want to spray WD 40 in oven because of a possible fire hazard, so I haven't changed out element yet. Tried calling customer service for advise, but to no avail. All other screws loosen easily. What should I do next.

Turned off the circuit breaker. Removed two screws - pulled the element out enough to get to clips connected to power. Removed old element - installed the new one. Replaced the screws, then turned the circuit breaker back on. Stove was repaired.

Easily removed the oven and had access to the rear in under a minute undid the 2 Phillips screws retaining the element and replaced with the new element I had ordered it was just so simple!

Thank you as you saved us calling out an expensive technician avoiding unreasonable time and costs expenditure