CEP3540AAB Magic Chef Range - Instructions

Cut broken wire and existed wire off and put splice on both new and old wires to connect them.
It's easy job.

I looked up the part from the parts diagram list and was easily able to order it. The part arrived quickly and I installed it.

After buying a 'universal' part at Lowe's and it not fitting correctly and shorting out the burner, I went online and found this source for an exact replacement part. Beside having to disassemble the drop in stove burner two or three times it went well when I had the correct part. I lost one screw somewhere and that delayed me a short time to find a replacement. Thus the 1 to 2 hours. It would have been about a 30 minute job if I had been smarter.

I removed the burner elements for three burners by lifting the surface top and unplugging them. I snapped out the plug sockets that were burned out and cut the two wires, one element at a time. Using the included wire nuts I stripped the ends of the cut wire and connected each wire to one of the wires on the new socket. Once the wires were connected I snapped the sockets in place and reinstalled the elements, lowered the surface top and the range was ready to use.

Our Maytag Gemini is about 10 years old. One night the 8" front right element was smoking and had a white hot spot on the burner. I quickly turned it off and after the element cooled I removed it. Since one 8" element was burned out, but the rest of the range and oven worked, I assumed I could get it fixed. Rather than call the service man for $99 for a diagnostic visit, I decided to go to PartSelect and get prices on parts. They had the easiest site to use with part numbers, exploded part drawings, etc. Since I had to replace one burned out element anyway, I ordered the burner and the wiring receptacle. I assumed that was step one. The parts came in about two days. It took me about 20 minutes to put them in with no problems. Very easy. However, the burmer still would not work. I went back to the site and determined the only other part it could be was the infinite switch. The bad element little light on the top control panel was not going out even after I put in new parts. I figured it was shorted out and frozen in the closed position, so I ordered a new one from PrtSelect. It came again in about two days. This part was easy to replace, except it took longer because the entire back of the oven had to be removed. Three pieces of sheet metal had to be removed and two plastic end caps. Sheet metal has sharp edges. Watch out that you do not get cut. A lot of screws got removed and put back. You have to be careful that the three pieces of sheet metal are put back correctly because several edge tabs lap over each other. The infinite switch fixed the problem. Took me about two hours to do the switch replacement, but that counted cleaning the sides of the oven and underneath the oven (Yuch!). Now everything works fine. I suspect that the old wiring receptacle was fine and just the infinite switch and element needed to be replaced. In any case, the wiring receptacle was cheap. In the end, the repair cost me the same $99, but I spent it in parts and not parts plus installation so I was way ahead.

The repair itself is really quite easy. Cut the wires, strip the ends and attach the new receptacle with wire nuts. The hard part was getting to it. My cooktop is about 30 years old, so I had to wade through piles of nasty built up grease. Some of the sheet metal screws were unworkable, so I had to cut them off with a Dremel tool. Not a pretty picture, but that's how repair work is on old stuff.

Took off the back panel, unplugged the power cord, and tested the switch with an ohm meter. Found it open and ordered new switch. Replaced it easily and now have both elements working as required.

Starting by me making a substitute prong to keep the stove working while the part this coming by mail. was a piece of cake.

This particular Amana electric range has a "eye" that can serve as the heat source for a small or large pan simply by using the rocker switch to "flip" between "large" or "small." This switch broke. I found Partselect.com, found the part, ordered on Saturday night and received it on Tuesday afternoon. 1) Shut off power to the range at the breaker box. 2) Used a small flat-head srewdriver to pop the old rocker switch from the appliance. 3) Used a set of locking pliers to hold the wires in place as I disconnected the old switch from it's connections using a set of needle-nose pliers. (It was a plug-in style switch). 4) Plugged in the new switch. 5)Released the wires from the locing pliers. 6) Popped the new switch into the range's cabinet. 7) Flipped the breaker to "On". WORKS Perfectly

10 Minutes for a stove my landlord thought was not fixable (repairman had already cut the wires to the element and capped them)! The delivery person handed me the package, I got out the single tool needed, installed the part, put away the tool, cleaned my hands, and put a pot of water on the stove to boil for pasta. 10 minutes!

The video on your website showed me how to take out 1 screw, cut the existing wires and strip the ends. The kit came with 2 porcelan wire nuts to re-connect the wires and it was done. Less than 10 minutes. It saved me $100.00 to get it repaired.I bought 2 in case I need another one in the future.They only cost $11.00 each. Awesome website.

ulplugged elements and dropped in new pans

The repair only took me 10 minutes to do. I purchased the surface replacement kit from partselect.com. The part arrived in two days. The instructions were very simple. I read the instructions on line during my purchase. When I received the new part, I simply did the repair. Including shipping, the cost was less than $20.00. A service call would have been at least 5x the cost. Thank you for being there Partselect. (Tim from south bend indiana)

So purchased two new 8 inch elements and replaced them.

Well, I had to search a bit deeper in the internet to find out that the problem was not with the surface burner (which did look a bit burned out anyway) but rather with the surface burner switch (Part Number: PS336885) which must have ben damaged by the heat of the closest burner. If this problem would have been better documented (or if I would have searched more carefully) I would have saved over $40 with parts (Surface Burner Receptacle Kit) that I didn't quite need. Repairing the switch was very easy, thanks also to the available video , even though the stove used on this video (front panel) didn't quite match mine (top-back panel).