34JN-5TVW-EV Magic Chef Range - Instructions

Thanks to previous posters, this seemed to be an igniter issue, and I found the idea of swapping the broiler igniter for the bottom one particularly good - I knew exactly what part was broken and how easy/hard the job would be prior to ordering. The part used snap in electric components, so the only work was in removing and re-installing the parts. Working in the oven was by FAR the most difficult part of the entire process.

Replaced the igniter by removing 2 screws, pulling on the wires to pull the connector in from the back thru the oval opening, screwing in the the new element, reconnecting the wires, pushing the connector back and that did it.

1. Slowly pull the stove from wall. 2. Unplug 120 volts plug from outlet. 3.Turned off the gas outlet. 4. Open the stove door, remove the racks, then unscrew (2) screws that hold the short oven sensor in place. 5. Slowly pull sensor out of it's housing. Remove the clip that holds the sensor. Install new sensor using the clip. Push sensor back through the hole opening. Screw the (2) screws into the mount to secure the sensor. 6. Plug the 120 volt plug into the wall outlet. Turn on the gas outlet. Test stove by turning on oven. It works like a new stove. Wife is happy, and Thanks Giving Dinner is on! Reverse your steps to secure your stove. A total of 25 minutes after cleaning the dust under stove. Thanks for everything. By the way, Thanks Giving Dinner was delicious.

Removed two nuts and one screw to replace old igniter with new one. Replaced the nuts and screw. Turned on the oven, and it is working fine.

Same as the other entries in this section.
The only thing I would add is a hint for removing the broiler igniter. As you can see from the oven igniter, the wires connect with a plug. For the top igniter, the broiler, the plug goes through the insulation and then through a hole in the rear panel of the oven. So, when you pull on it, you will think it is stuck or the wire is pulled taut. That is because the plug hangs up on the rear panel.
Stick your finger through the square hole that you can see inside the oven, and follow the wire through the insulation. You will feel the small round hole in the back. You have to wiggle the wire up and around a bit to get the plug to fit through the hole. Then you will have the slack you need to change the plugs.
That way, you don't have to pull the whole oven out and break all the caulking seals.

The igniter was located in the bottom of the stove or broiler section. It was hard to get at, but with a little trial and error I figured out how to take the plate between the oven and broiler. Now the igniter was easily accessable. 2 screws on the igniter bracket, then simply unplug the electrical. The igniter supplied had the identical electrical plug (plug and play). The new igniter works like a charm-oven ignites in about 15 seconds. Piece of cake!!!!!

I replaced the igniter in both the oven and the broiler. This was my first time ever working on a range.
I removed the oven door for easy access. To replace the oven igniter, I took the bottom floor out of the oven. The igniter is readily visible at the rear of the burner. I removed the two screws holding the igniter with a socket wrench. The screws were somewhat stubborn but yielded rather quickly. I gently pulled the two wires attached to the igniter from the back of the oven until the connector was exposed. I disconnected the old igniter and connected the new one. Then I simply reversed the the procedure, tucking the connector and wire back through the hole it came from and re - installed the two screws in the bracket. The insulation provided with the kit was used to plug the hole in the back of the oven.

To replace the broiler igniter, I essentially followed the same procedure. However, I chose not to remove the broiler baffle. This made it more difficult to both remove and re-install the two screws holding the ignitor. Otherwise, everything else went smoothly. If I had to do it again, I'd remove the baffle.

If your igniter glows but the burner doesn't light, your igniter is more than likely bad. It should have at least 3.2V to gas valve when the igniter is glowing in order to open the gas valve. The repair is very easy with only a 5/16" nut driver equired to remove and replace the igniter. It's pretty much a plug and play reair.

Removed burnt bulb. On replacing the bulb I glued the bracket, retainer gasket and bulb cover together- I used only a small amount of glue-just enough to hold the three items together. You need to do this since the three items slip in your hand while you attempt to screw the bracket to the oven wall. Need my help, email me @ Lexidog999@tx.rr.com

First I went online to find out about the availability of the part. In my search, I found what others had experienced and how they repaired it. Second, I ordered the part and followed others stories on their repair efforts. Third, I unplugged the range and removed the racks. Fourth, I removed the bottom of the oven which lifts out back first. Fifth, I removed the wing nut securing the flame difusser making it easier to access the element. Sixth, I had read that others had problems saving the original screws and/or threaded holes. I sprayed some wd-40 on both screws. They came out and back in without a hitch. Seventh, I removed and replaced the element, snap out, snap in. Eighth, I turned on the oven. It took about 15 seconds to glow but wow, it lit 5 seconds after that. I am my wife's hero!

removed the shield and removed the old tube. Replaced with the new tube and replaced the shield. The only place I could locate this tube was through the internet. This Co. had as good a price including shipping that I found.

Pulled oven out from wall. Unplugged. Pulled out bottom drawer. Removed oven door by pulling up on angle. Removed bottom of oven. Removed old ignitor by taking out screws. Disconnected red and white wiring plastic coupler. Fed new wiring and connected. Mounted ignitor. Plugged back in. Very easy and worked!

I removed the back of the range to disconnect the wires to the igniter. Then I removed the two screws holding the igniter, screwed the new one in and reconnected the wires in back.
I was really pleased how easy it was to find the part on the website and how quickly the part came. The whole job was a snap. Thanks!

It took me 10 mins to replace the oven igniter and I did it myself. Oven is working fine now. I saved myself a $300.00 repair bill. Thank you for making the part available and saving me dollars!

I noticed that the ignitor would glow but the stove wouldn't light - I got the model number of the stove and googled the maytag model number. Came upon your website and realized that 94% of the time the problem was the amps were not enough to light the stove. I looked at all of the stories on how easy it was to fix. I ordered the part and received it within 3 days. I opened the door part way and lifted it straight up to remove it. I pulled out the bottom broiler plate by grabbing the back on pulling up. I undscrewed the wing nut of the flame bar and had easy access to the igniter. I removed the two nuts from the old igniter. Unplugged the igniter from the easy access door from the back and plugged in the new igniter. Replaced the access door and attached the igniter with the two nuts. Put the flame bar back on, put the broiler plate back on, put the door back on, plugged in the stove turned it on and success. It was so easy. I know in our area I would have paid near $200 for a service technician to come out and do what I did in approx. 20 Minutes and $50 for the part. Thank you so much for you website to help us not so talented appliance repair homeowners.