70238 Litton Range - Instructions

My son removed the pan above the ignition switch, using only a screwdriver. He checked it against the excellent website photos for compatibility with what you had to offer. I order it and it was here in Houston within 2 days of the order. Took 20 minutes to remove and compare and 7 minutes to replace the old with the new. A piece of cake.
Best thing was that the oven/stove is 29 years old and I thought I would have to buy a new one (approximately $700 for comparable)and I am a Senior Citizen. So for $48.98 and lots of elbow grease to clean the stainless steel top etc. I have a dandy, operating, dependable piece of cooking equipment !!!!

Figured it had to be the ignitor. I didn't use a multi-meter. Since the appliance was so old, if the $50 igniter didn't do the trick, I'd just replace the oven. Install was super easy, and now oven works great!!!

The Just Answer website answer felt certain that the igniter was the problem, and hence I ordered a new igniter.
I removed the oven bottom plate and the cover over the valve connection to get an overview of the job. Was really not necessary. Actual repair was only to remove the two screws holding the igniter, pull the cord to get to the connector, and switch igniters. Then put everything back together again. Job done. Oven works great.

We replaced Flat Style Oven Igniter simply by removing the oven racks, then removed the bottom of the oven. Used a Philips screwdriver to remove the old igniter, placed new one in. The wires to the oven from the ingniter just needed to be in a clip. Tightened the screws and replaced bottom & racks. Oven worked wonderful after this, like a brand new oven!

Using a remote digital thermometer, noted that the oven temp reached operating temp, then fell 40-50 degrees, was slow to recover. After reading entries from others on your web site, removed oven floor and watched the burner operation. The igniter would light the gas at first, the temp would go up, gas would shut off. Then when the igniter came on again, it would glow for a long time before gas would come on.The replacement was very simple, even though one of the mounting screws twisted off, the remaining screw seems to be holding.Was a simple unplug old connector, insert new connector. The optional parts included in the kit were not needed.

My brother-in-law did the repair as I am a scardy-cat and didn't want to tackle it myself. The most difficult part of the repair was the awkward position you have to get your body in to do the repair. Other than that it was a piece of cake.

Removed Old Igniter and installed new one, parts and connector fit fine, no modifications needed.

I was worried over the fact that my oven was filling up with propane but taking a long time to light. One day it didn't light for over ten minutes. I shut it off and put the still frozen pizza back in the freezer. That's it, I thought. I'm not going to use the oven again until it's fixed.

I looked online and ordered the part. It came within two days time,even though it was a weekend during the holiday season. My husband spent about 15 minutes with his head in the oven and then said it was fixed.

I baked several batches of Christmas cookies and three coffee cakes the next day.

Remove the the drawer of the gas range on the bottom, on the right side there is a alluminum cover with a bunch wires, held on with two screws,inside is the igniter kit module, make sure you unplug the range from the wall . unplug the wires from the unit and plug the new unit up and you are finish.Good luck.

First, I removed the racks, door, bottom drawer, and lifted the bottom pan up and out from the rear. Then, I unscrewed the bottom cover for the electrical stuff (under where the drawer is) as this is where the connector for the igniter is. I did a voltage test on the oven side of the connector, finding voltage there I removed the igniter by removing the 2 screws holding it to the burner. (pack lunch for that part, they will be rusted, I used a mini grinder to cut off the heads). Then I pulled the connector through the hole, and installed new igniter using self drilling screws. After i repacked the insulation, I put it back together, and it lit right up. The failed one had a bad ballast, confirmed by a continuity test.

Came to this website to look for possible cause. The major fault for my problem was the igniter @ 61% of the time. So, I ordered this part @ about $55. Opened the range floor, removed two nut screws and old igniter, by unpluging. Plugged in new part reattached screws and tested before putting it back together. Worked fine, without snags. However I did pull up and remove oven door for complete access to oven.

Rick,
Detroit, MI.

Replaced the oven ignitor. Toughest part was removing old screws.

I removed the old igniter, held in place with two screws, pulled the wiring out to get to the clip, and undid the clip. Clipped the new igniter to the wires, pushed back into the hole at the back of the oven, installed the igniter with the two screws, and fires just like new! I had a loose wire on the old igniter and hassled with that for years because I didn't realize how easy the fix was.

unplugged the oven, unplugged the ignitor and removed the two screws

snaped them into oven cavity attached temp bulb job complete