KESH307HBS6 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

First I found a YouTube video for Maytag Range Repair – How to replace the Surface Element with Limiter - 6" - 1200W

The steps are very easy-
1. Open oven door and locate and remove 2 screws holding top cook surface. These are located near the top inside edge

2. Lift surface cook top and then remove 4 screws holding this section to the cook top. This may require 2 people but I was able to hold the cook top and loosen the 4 screws myself. Then put the cook top aside.

3. Take a photo of the element being replaced for wiring connections.

4. Removing the wiring and element holding clips was very easy. I used needle nose pliers for both

5. The clips have to be removed from the old element and put on the new one. Place them in the same locations

6. Make sure to reconnect the wires to the same pin locations. The replacement element I had the red (hot) wire pin 2b was in
A different location so I had to use the extension wire supplied with the new replacement element

7. Put everything back together in reverse order.

Easy peasy, took me about 40 minutes to complete the entire replacement and have it back in place working.

took out the old dome cover and replaced it with a new one by unscrewing and replaced the new one and a fiberglass gasket. simple.

Pulled the oven door out. Took the whole door apart and put it back together. The first time I put it back together the inner glass was still loose so I had to take it apart again and figure out how to hold everything together tightly. Your part was perfect. The glass was exactly the same as two others in the oven door. I wish I had instructions but when the parts fit it sure helps.

took the door off, removed the screws, removed the back of the door, took the broken glass out, put new glass in, reassemble door, put door back on.

Just as others said. Remove top holdown bolts with nut driver. Prop range top up.
Use a pair of plyers to remove wires (make sure you have a diagram to restore).
Use screwdriver to remove element hold down spring and wire holder. Replace element and replace wires and screws.

Removed door parts & cleaned each, till the glass was reached. Replaced glass and reinstalled parts in order removed.

Had to remove side panel then very easy

The first time I took the door apart to see what part to order it was difficult. The second time I knew what I was in for and was more prepared. Replacing the hinges were no problem. It was taking apart the door that was more difficult.

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.

There are already good instructions here on doing the repair, so I will just add what I found important. 1) using penetrating oil and an impact wrench on the screws that hold the inner glass to the inside of the oven door - they were rusted tight. 2) the outside glass front sits on the front of the door, on top of the edges of the side pieces, even though it looked to me like the side pieces were meant to go over the edges of the glass - they aren't. The bare side edges of the glass aren't covered with any trim at all. The video on removing the oven door that matched the kind of hinges I had showed taking them off the door as part of disassembly of the door. I didn't find that necessary at all, and you probably won't either. Less parts to have to get back in place. The hard part to me was finding the correct disassembly video to match the oddball hinges, which isn't to say it's a bad design - actually it seems better that the other more common designs. Take out the two screws above where the hinges enter the range, and lift the door up, away from the range, and off. Easy peasy.

The new element wiring placements were totally different from the old element. Lucky for me the lettering printed on the terminals for each pole was the same as on the old one. It was just a matter of matching up each terminal pole lettering. The instructions that came with the new element were of no help at all. Youtube was my best helper.

It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.

Took the back off and put it in. It was a snap! Shouldn't have waited 1 year to do it!

I trouble shot and traced out to electrical short in face panel and found burnt wires. I've been a licensed electrician for years and it takes alot of comon sense to trouble shoot and find problem. I found schetch-matic of appliance and searched computor and found partselect.com and tried it. It wasnt no time and the part was at my door. Thank you partselect and i would use them again in the future. billy