KERC507YWH3 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

I went to the source of power on the stove and noticed one of the terminals had come loose from the terminal block and had shorted out against the cover of the terminal junction. After prying the loose terminal off cover I ordered new terminal block and received it the 2nd day. I removed the old terminal block and replaced the part in about 10 minutes..Thank you Parts Select for your easy to find diagrams and quick delivery.

Removed back panel on stove and found no continuity in bake element indicating a break in the element circuit. Also tested electrical supply up to the element and found that we had electricity up to the element when the oven was turned on. Went on line and ordered the bake element and it was on my doorstep in 48 hours. Remove 2 screws inside oven and disconnect wires from the rear and install new element and plug the 2 wires into it, replace rear panel ( 3screws) and turn electricity back on to the stove and you are back in business.

Removed rear panel (6 screws) and disconnected the four connectors on the Broil element. Then removed the 4 screws holding the the element to the top of the oven cavity. Inserted new element and connected the 4 screws to secure it. Connected the four connectors and re-installed the rear panel.

Removed the light cover - unscrew the bulb - place the gasket on the base of the light cover - replace the bulb - replace the light cover

Removed the element by using a basic screw driver...two screws. Detached the slip on wire attachments (don't know what they are called). Re-attached new element and screws. Very simple. I was hoping elements were a little cheaper, but I was impressed with the speed that Part Select delivered my new element. I'll use them again.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

The oven light gasket had deteriorated with time and bulb changes. It is a self cleaning oven, which gets very hot during the cleaning cycle. The oven is old (27years) and off the "books" I selected a similar, but slightly smaller gasket (3" OD), and "fit" it to the 3.5" light fixture of the older oven. The gasket material was similar to the original, and I used a usable portion of the original,along with the new gasket to build a gasket for the light lense. Several years prior to this repair, I replaced the oven door springs. Whirlpool, who had taken over what was left of Chambers, had the springs. I did replace one heating element about 15 years ago. The Chamber's salesman told me that the Chambers was the "Cadillac" of all ovens, and it seems to keep running.

I removed the door and I took it completely apart in order to replace the broken inner glass pieces. The door has about 30 separate pieces, so it is a meticulous repair and I recommend that you be fairly handy if you are going to attempt this. Something that seems as though it should be pretty simple took me nearly two hours to complete. I am happy to report that the result was a resounding success. The broken oven door glass had been affecting the oven temperature and as the result the baked foods were adversely affected. Cakes, pies, etc, would either be over or under cooked with no way to properly regulate the temperature. The inner glass is necessary in order to maintain correct oven function, so replacing it made everything work as designed once again.

Had difficulty removing the two screws holding element(range is eighteen years old.Screws were badly rusted)After that,it was a piece of cake

I got the new wheel and screwed it in by hand. It took like 4 minutes total between taking out the drawer, screwing the new wheel on, and putting the drawer back in

I used a nut driver to take the module apart. When I discovered the problem I simply threw the module out but kept the ceramic top and then ordered a new stove top. The burners would be a snap to install if the clips that secure it in place had not ALL broken off. All you do is pull the wires off with a pair pliers and set the new unit in place and reattach the wires. All that would be left would be to reattach the ceramic top and set the module back into place on the stove top. The modules were discontinued and no longer available any place. Believe me I tried. The delivery to me from Parts Perfect was very quick and without any hassles. I had no problem returning the burner. I would recommend these people any time.

I unscrewed the glass surface from the bottom portion where the element lays. I gently unplugs the element and plugged in the new element. Then screwed it back together.

One screw on each of the two cover plates removed, then element is pulled out enough to get at the connections. These are small blade connectors that slide off, two on each side, so 4 all together. The problem for me was that on one side the wires were to short and as soon as the blade connection was released the wire pulled back through the hole and was difficult to retrieve because it was hiding in the insulation. If I were to do this again I would use a small zip tie around the wire before disconnecting it so I would have something to pull it back out with.

The repair was simple:
PartSelect always seems to have the parts you need and they get them to you quickly.
Baking element - I removed the two screws that hold the element to the back of the oven ( Philips head). Disconnected the spade type electrical connections from each end of the element. Note: use some type of clamp to hold the wires from pulling back into the outer section of the oven. I used wooden clothespins). Reverse the process to install new element.
Broiler element - I placed the shipping container over the new baking element to protect it. Then removed the four screws holding the top element to the back of the oven ( Philips head). Take care to mark the 4 wires for the broiler element. ( 2 for outer coil & 2 for inner coil) Clamp these wires also after disconnecting. Slide the 2 "L" shaped hangers out of there slots. When installing the new element connect the wires first then slide the "L" shaped hangers back into the slots. reinstall the 4 screws and your done. I did the repair with out removing the oven door ( ours is difficult to get back on ) with the door off the job will take less time and access will be easier.