KEDC205YWH0 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

First I removed the bottom oven drawer from the stove. Then I removed all the screws from the outer oven door. Then I removed the screws from the inter door panel and needed assistance to remove the first glass panel and frame. Then I removed the second panel of glass and frame. Then I removed the third panel of glass that was broken. The gasket was the last part to be removed. Getting the new gasket to stay put while putting the new glass panel next to it was the hard part. I needed assistance to place the glass against the gasket and then place the frame back on this panel. Once this mission was accomplished. It was a matter of getting the next glass panel put back in the frame. and replacing the inter door panel and putting the screws back in. Then I put the third glass panel and screws back in. Once this was accomplished , I put the outer door back and put the screens back in the outer door.

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

grandson removed the two screws holding in the burned out unit and removed the two wires, installed them into the new unit and put the prongs into place. very easy and certainly very economic. delivery was quick and postage was reasonable. Thank you.

The broiler unit had disintegrated at both connections. I removed the two screws in the top of the oven holder the unit, pulled out the unit, measured and ordered a replacement.

To replace the element, I pulled out the stove, removed the rear panel, located the connections for the broiler unit, remove parts of the old unit. I then attached the new unit to the top of the oven with the two screws, went around back and pushed in the two connections, replaced the back cover and replace the stove. It took about 30 minutes because I cleaned everything and sprayed bug spay (another plus for doing the repair myself).

REMOVE BACK COVER. UN PLUG, REMOVE TWO SCREWS IN SIDE OVEN, PULL OUT , REPLACE, REATTACH, FIXED CODE F-3

1. Turn off oven.
2. Switch off circuit braker to oven.
3. Remove two screws holding element.
4. Pull element out to expose connectors.
5. Disconnect connectors and remove element.
6. Reverse procedure for installation.

Lifted range top, disconnected and labled wires from old switch, removed old switch, replaced wires on new switch, installed new switch.
NOTE: Local appliance store informed me that the electric cooktop was too old and that a replacement switch was not available and wanted to sell me a new cooktop for $795!
I found the switch on PartSelect and repaired the cooktop. Total cost... UNDER THIRTY DOLLARS!!

I found the received switch (PS12070192) a poor replacement for the original, or even the earlier replaced part (PS11744446, in 2016) I was going to replace since the press/return feature seemed slow to return.

The male spade lugs on the received switch are so positioned that engagement is only possible if the lug is bent out at a large angle. The lug set-back from the body edge, and the raised ribs on the sides still prevent full engagement of the connections.

I did install the new switch but found that was the only switch that didn’t give a signal light when turned on.

I have reinstalled the earlier unit.

Is part# PS 11744446 no longer available?



James E Weimholt. jmwm4031@verizon.net

Removed old element, replaced new element. Unfortunately, this didn't fix the problem. It was the temperature sensor. But now I have a new bake element, though!

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

As soon the Bake Element has arive, I install it no more than 5 min... All I nedd was a Screw driver. It was so easy, Thank You PartSelet!

was very easy to install I only needed a phillips screwdriver to remove old part and install new one.

I had previously partially removed the element and tested with multi-meter to determine that it was not working (open circuit). Repair procedure follows:

Turned off Power
Removed 2 retaining screws
Pulled element out part way
Removed 2 spade connectors supplying power
Replaced element w/new element
Reversed procedure
Tested Oven; worked fine.

Did require removing almost every screw in the oven door. Labeled the screws as they were removed. Not difficult, just like solving a puzzle.

Well, when you put the back cover on and screw it down make sure you have nothing touching the white wire leading to the oven light. I did and it blew the push switch when I threw the 220 breaker. Actually, the light was on when I came in the room, but when I pushed the switch on the front panel it sparked in the rear and popped the breaker. Then I saw the short and when I tested the switch it would not click. The install was fine.