KERC507HBS0 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

ordered replacement glass. removed oven door. dismantled parts, replaced glass and reassembled door and reattached to oven.

It was difficult to reach the back of the oven inside to remove screws. I had to use an extended socket with a bit tip. When I tried to remove the element from the clips, the clips slid back inside the insulation at the back of the oven. I had to take the back panel off of the oven, push the clips through the opening and then I used a bag clip to hold them so they would not slide back into the opening. I could not lift the door off-too heavy- to get closer to the back of the oven to put the clips and screws back on so I laid the oven on its back after putting the back cover on. The oven door was so heavy then that I had to prop the oven door open with my 24 inch rolling pin. I then leaned down into the oven and managed to get the clips and the screws back in. I then put the oven upright again, plugged it in, then had to re-level the whole thing. I turned it on and it worked. This probably would have been easier if I were not 65 years old and had some help. I was not giving up though. I got it done.

Most of the basics have been covered in previous post. I can add this- those who claim 15 minute-fixes are delusional, unless they're appliance repairmen. Secondly- what will take time is the cleaning. If you have to do this repair, which requires extensive disassembly of the door, it would be foolish not to take advantage of the opportunity to thoroughly clean all four layers of glass. Take the glass panes outside and use oven cleaner. This takes time. Other than that, the pancakeing of the components on re-assembly is tricky, but you can do it. Don

I followed the instructions submitted by other users which were helpful. Two notes that might help someone. 1. To loosen the screws holding the inner door glass, use channel lock type pliers to slightly twist the square bracket the screw is holding. The screw comes out easily then. 2. Note that the flange on the side rails go UNDER the glass door front. I spent quite a bit of time trying to get screw holes lined up with the flanges on top - DUH!

Per the instructions listed in your customer replies

That should have been an easy repair according to previous responders that replaced this part.

The first issue is the Phillips head screw that fastens the sensor to the back of the oven was frozen and I had to drill it out.

The second issue was I could not pull the connector through the hole where the sensor wires pass. I decided to cut the sensor wires and use wire connectors to attach the sensor as instructed in the sheet provided with the sensor.

NOTE: You MUST use third party "gray" colored wire connectors that you can purchase in a hardware store. - the connectors provided DO NOT have a metal insert and even after several attempts would not grab the wires.

Another caution is you should use a self-tapping sheet metal screw to fasten the sensor to the oven wall if you encounter the same frozen screw that I did!

After I installed the sensor I tested the oven but found that this DID NOT solve the problem! I needed to order the "hidden" bake element that is mounted under the bottom oven wall and also the broil/bake element that is mounted inside of the oven on the top. See my comments for the Bake Element (bottom)

In my situation I thought that I needed an Oven Temperature Sensor so I started by replacing the Oven Temperature Sensor PS388521 -

PLEASE NOTE: You CANNOT reliably do a continuity check on the bake element described here until you have completed te first four steps!!

PLEASE NOTE: Access to the lower bake element is via the RIGHT SIDE PANEL!

To replace the lower heating element (aka the bake or hidden element). These instructions are specific for the KESC307xxxx:

1. Disconnect power to the oven.

2. Move oven from it's location to gain access to the right side panel.

3. Remove the oven drawer (if any).

3. Remove three screws holding the right side panel in place and remove panel. Two of the screws are on the rear of the range. The third is accessed via the cavity where the oven drawer is mounted.

4. CAREFULLY disconnect both wires connected to the element terminals.

5. Remove one screw (not shown) from Shield-HT (item 8 in http://bit.ly/O52AP2) and remove the shield.

6. Carefully pull back fiberglass insulation to reveal cover-access panel.

7. Remove two screws that hold the element to the cover-access panel (item 3 in http://bit.ly/NjvzOi).

8. Remove one screw holding the cover-access panel in place.

9. Remove both element and cover-access panel. NOTE: Observe the orientation of the brackets that support the element so you can install the new element correctly!

10. Installation is the reverse of these steps but make sure you replace the fiberglass insulation correctly or you will experience problems with heat transfer and a possible hot-spot on the side of the oven.

Had difficulty removing the two screws holding element(range is eighteen years old.Screws were badly rusted)After that,it was a piece of cake

Removed the light cover - unscrew the bulb - place the gasket on the base of the light cover - replace the bulb - replace the light cover

I went to the source of power on the stove and noticed one of the terminals had come loose from the terminal block and had shorted out against the cover of the terminal junction. After prying the loose terminal off cover I ordered new terminal block and received it the 2nd day. I removed the old terminal block and replaced the part in about 10 minutes..Thank you Parts Select for your easy to find diagrams and quick delivery.

I very simply replaced the gasket where it belonged and I was good to go!

I took the back plate off of the oven by removing 3 screws and removed a single screw holding the sensor element in place, plugged the electrical 2 prong terminals back together and re-assembled the back of the oven. After the installation was completed we did a test run. It worked for aprox. 15 minutes and shut off again. It must have re-booted its self, cause when we tried it again it worked and still is working.

The Temperature Sensor was actually installed from the back of the oven. I had to remove about six(6) screws to remove a metal panel on the back of the stove. The connector the Temp sensor came with did not match the existing connector however it did come with wire nuts as an alternative. I cut the wires and connected them with the wire nuts and replaced the pannel. Very easy fix and my 13 year old oven still runs like new.

Replaced both rollers....Quick and Easy!!

Followed Mfgs instructions.