KDRP407HSS1 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

I found some of the feedback posted on this site very helpful. Taking photos as I went along was also very helpful in remembering how to put it back together. There are several over-lapping pieces to the door and you have to be careful to put things back together in the correct order. Lining up the screw holes on the hinges with the door is also a little tricky.

Originally ordered just the spring assuming that might be it and it was the cheapest way. However after getting in I found that the latch assembly had a broken 'tit' that is intended to hold the metal latch in place as it moves. Attempted to glue w/ epoxy but as i expected there was too much pressure to hold it in place. So....ordered the assembly.

TURN OFF BREAKER.....

1) Remove the two side rails by removing screw on the inside bottom of rails.
2) It helps to remove the door to get it out of your way but not required. To do this open door fully and insert two nails or similar into holes on each hinge. Close the door until the hinge contact nails. Lift the door up and out.
3) remove the top control panel by removing screw on either side (outside of oven)and screws on the underside of panel behind upper door.
4) It help to completely remove the panel to have more room to work but not required. If you do it is a good idea to photo the cable locations so it is easy to recall where they go. For the most part they only fit one location but always a good idea.
5) remove the latch by removing all spade connectors and two screws in front.
6) place new latch and reassemble.

Based on symptom, knew either switches or spark module. Checked continuity to each switch. Knew if only one faulty, entire harness must be replaced. Checked out good. Spark module isolated so replaced it.

Since there is multiple glass panels with several brackets, screws and insulation within the oven door I strongly suggest to take photos at each step using your smart phone. Do not attempt to remove all the components at once. Bracket positions, screw locations and glass orientation is necessary. This is the best advice I have to make this a quick and very easy job.

I shut the power off first as this is 240v. Then removed all the screws that hold the element on. The old one had 5 screws. For this part you will need to buy new or reuse the old screws. I reused the old ones. Once loose the element pulled forward and exposed the connectors. I used pliers to pull the broken one out as it did not come out with the old element. It will only pull out a few inches, but that is enough to unplug the connectors. After unplugged the element can be taken to recycling. The new one can be set in the oven with the connectors near the wires and plug the two sides into the connectors. Have a screw ready and slide the rear of the element back into rear which will support it while you insert one of the screws into the front support to hold the element in place. Then move the element and support as needed to install the remaining screws. Once it is all tight, turn on the power and make sure it works.

I looked up the problem and determined I needed to replace the limit switch which is inside the back panel. As a 78 year old woman who isn't afraid to tackle these problems I found this easier than most. Just be sure to disconnect the electrical connection if you don't have long enough length to pull oven from the wall cabinet. I won't put any sheet pans in the oven next time I self clean it.

1) Removed the trim pieces (2 screws). 2) removed the 2 screws holding the oven in the wall. 3) Slid the oven out of the wall cabinet 4) removed the back panel of the oven ( 10 screws. 5.) removed the old thermostat (2 nuts) 6.). Installed the new thermostat and reversed steps 4-1

Opened overn door and inserted allen wrenchs through the holes in the door hinges. Close the door until it makes contact with the allen wrenchs, then grasp the oven door handle and the bottom of the oven door and lift up to remove the door. Place the door on a flat surface,(I used a bed) and remove the screws to gain access to the glass. Upon re-assesbly, leave door flat line up and re-install all screws before putting the front pannel back on. Insert door back into the oven and open, remove the allen wrenches and close the door. The process is easy and will take 30 minutes to an hour and save you a $100.00 service call!

Disconnect the sensor harness and checked resistance on the sensor,should read around 1100 ohm I only got 25.The sensor is mounted in the oven cavity back wall below upper element,the door must be removed. Unscrew 2 Philips head screw,unhook the harness,install new sensor,reconnect harness,install screws.

Pulled the stove out, unscrewed the back and plugged the new thermostat in. Screwed the back back on

Removed locking device

I slid the range out about 8 inches from the wall, and having unplugged the range and looked at the diagram from the Parts Select site, I used a mirror and screwdriver to remove the screws holding the small rear cover. From there I removed the one screw holding the spark module and that way I was able to hold the old and new one side by side to move the wires. Reversed the process, easy peasy.

After we put the latch pins in, the door was easily lifted off. We placed the door on the table and unscrewed the trim pieces. The new trim pieces went into place after we cleaned the door. We slipped the door back on the oven and removed the hinge pins.

Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.

Read the instructions in installation manual to remove door. Kept removing screws. Was surprised to find two panes of glass between the inner glass and the outer glass. Cleaned all the glass (4) and the inside of the door. Looks brand new. Be careful with the insulation; be sure it is pushed back or it will show from the outside.