KGRT500FWH2 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

As a relatively handy person, I have built homes, and done every kind of repair you could imagine from plumbing to heavy construction. I never wanted to play with appliances, just couldn't read those diagrams well enough to feel comfortable. Parts select has changed my life and saved me so much money and I have repaired appliances in several of the homes with no issues using your videos and parts as my guide.

First of all I couldn't believe parts arrived next day. Parts solved the problem I was reluctant to believe new hinges would solve the problem. I installed the hinges in about 1 hour but I had door apart previously so I knew what I was doing. Now my wife is speaking to me again and she threw the wooden spoon away that she used to hold door closed. Just spent $100 dollars and saved $1600 thanks guys.

The oven light gasket had deteriorated with time and bulb changes. It is a self cleaning oven, which gets very hot during the cleaning cycle. The oven is old (27years) and off the "books" I selected a similar, but slightly smaller gasket (3" OD), and "fit" it to the 3.5" light fixture of the older oven. The gasket material was similar to the original, and I used a usable portion of the original,along with the new gasket to build a gasket for the light lense. Several years prior to this repair, I replaced the oven door springs. Whirlpool, who had taken over what was left of Chambers, had the springs. I did replace one heating element about 15 years ago. The Chamber's salesman told me that the Chambers was the "Cadillac" of all ovens, and it seems to keep running.

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

I watched some videos on YouTube first that said you could flip a latch on the door hinges and remove the door entirely. On this older oven there was no latch, you just open the door to its first position and lift up and out to remove the door. Unlike newer doors leave this one face up on a table to work on it. Remove all (10?) of the screws along the bottom edge, pull away the side door trim pieces, then remove the outside panel of the door by lifting slightly then pulling downwards. Mine was actually a glass panel, so be careful. Remove the two screws holding the upper door trim down onto the hinge mechanisms and rotate the trim out of the way. Lift off the large metal cover to expose the first, outer glass, then remove the insulation, then remove the screws and clips holding down the metal frame around the inner glass. Clean everything well (I used a baking soda paste), then replace in the reverse order.

Followed instruction on web site

The repair was so easy. The part came in a box and as I expected it was an exact match. I closed my eyes...counted to three and behold the part was installed. I don't think that installation could have gone any better. I would buy again from this company if I needed parts for any appliance.

I did the repair following your instructions and it went very well. Now the temperature is working good , but the oven is heating up very slow. So now what should I do to fix the oven?

Replacing the igniter took care of the problem. I just wish I had made better notes about how the wire were routed. It would have saved time as I re-assembled everything. Th ejob itself was really easy.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

Pulled insulation out of the way to feed wires through. Might have helped to tie pull string to old wires but fishing them through was not to difficult.No need to cut wires; it is not a good idea to make unnecessary splices.

Replacing an oven igniter is one of the easiest repairs you can make to your oven. There are two igniters - one for the broiler and one for the oven itself. Oven Igniter: Start by removing the rear panel of the oven which attaches with a couple screws. Inside the oven, remove the "butterfly" shaped heat deflector (over the flame tube) which attaches with four screws. You now have access to the igniter. Remove the two screws which attach it to the bracket. On the rear of the oven, unplug the two spade connectors. Pull the igniter out from the front of the oven. Fish the wires for the new igniter through the same hole. Plug the 2 new wires back in. You can't mess this up - the wires have matching connectors and you can't get them confused. The broiler igniter is a little more complicated. You will have to remove the side panel of the oven to reach one of the connectors. It's just a couple more screws. The procedure is the same, but the wires are much harder to "fish" through the hole though. Unscrew the broiler igniter from the bracket and unplug the wires. Before you pull them out, attach a length of clothes hanger so that you pull the hanger into the oven from the rear. This way you can attach the new wires to the hanger and then pull them through to the back of the oven. If you don't attach something when you pull the old wires out, it is very hard to fish the wires for the broiler igniter to the rear of the oven. Good Luck!

Take 4 screws off to remove oven pan, once pan is off , you can see the igniter. Take off two screws and remove old igniter. Be sure to run wires on new igniter where they were on the old igniter.

The light lens was done by removing the pieces of the lense left in the stove, the bulb itself was stuck in the socket, it took pliers to bend and remove it. The replacement bulb has a mind of it own and comes on intermittently. The Interior door glass posed a bit more of a challenge. The door came apart just fine, but couldn't be put pack together as easily. It took three adults to try to press the pieces of the door back together, but to no avail. It is holding less one screw that could not be placed in the proper position due to misalignment of the holes. No pliers were used as they might have cracked the glass on the front of the door. The Glass Backsplash was very easy to install, however, the light, which is 26 inches long is not easy to come by at a reasonable price, so it was not replaced to date. Overall, it was a better deal than buying a new stove or paying for the warranty which could have paid for a new stove for as many years as I have owned this stove.

That should have been an easy repair according to previous responders that replaced this part.

The first issue is the Phillips head screw that fastens the sensor to the back of the oven was frozen and I had to drill it out.

The second issue was I could not pull the connector through the hole where the sensor wires pass. I decided to cut the sensor wires and use wire connectors to attach the sensor as instructed in the sheet provided with the sensor.

NOTE: You MUST use third party "gray" colored wire connectors that you can purchase in a hardware store. - the connectors provided DO NOT have a metal insert and even after several attempts would not grab the wires.

Another caution is you should use a self-tapping sheet metal screw to fasten the sensor to the oven wall if you encounter the same frozen screw that I did!

After I installed the sensor I tested the oven but found that this DID NOT solve the problem! I needed to order the "hidden" bake element that is mounted under the bottom oven wall and also the broil/bake element that is mounted inside of the oven on the top. See my comments for the Bake Element (bottom)