YKERS507HW1 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Took door apart no problem had a little trouble putting it back together just one piece I put back wrong had to start over not to bad still took less then one hour

One screw on each of the two cover plates removed, then element is pulled out enough to get at the connections. These are small blade connectors that slide off, two on each side, so 4 all together. The problem for me was that on one side the wires were to short and as soon as the blade connection was released the wire pulled back through the hole and was difficult to retrieve because it was hiding in the insulation. If I were to do this again I would use a small zip tie around the wire before disconnecting it so I would have something to pull it back out with.

I was not around the entire time a neighbor was working to get the door removed. He only said he had to remove an additional screw so I'm not sure I can be of much help here.Once the door was removed however, the repair went easily. I would tell anyone needing this repair to be prepared to clean a number of crevices around the door. I was glad to have a chance to clean these hidden places.Let me also said customer service rep was wonderful.

I did the repair myself while my husband was at work. I lacked the brute strength to remove the door, so I ended up taking in apart while it was in place. Unfortunately, I only now noticed that instructions for installation were provided on your website. I did it without instruction, just making sure to note where screws had been removed so I'd be able to reassemble the works when I was finished. The worst part was loosening a couple of the innermost screws--even after a long soak in wd40, they were really hard to crack loose. Once I managed that, though, it went smoothly. Don't be intimidated; you can do this stuff yourself without calling--and paying--a repairman.

I received the replacement broil element for my Kitchenaid model KESH307 range 34 hours after placing the order online with PartSelect.com! I had previously removed the old element and verified that the outer circuit was open. I did this without removing the oven door. I realized that to install the new element with the door on would require me to have 5 foot long arms and a very flexible 2 foot long neck.

Turns out there are at least 3 different styles of door mounting in the Kitchenaid line. I found the correct one for my range, and when the new element arrived, I had the door off in a jiffy. Enlisting my spouse to hold the oven door switch so as to keep the light off (It shown in my eyes.), I installed the new element with minimal difficulty. It took me about 20 minutes.

Thank you PartSelect for being there and for the really quick delivery.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

It was difficult to reach the back of the oven inside to remove screws. I had to use an extended socket with a bit tip. When I tried to remove the element from the clips, the clips slid back inside the insulation at the back of the oven. I had to take the back panel off of the oven, push the clips through the opening and then I used a bag clip to hold them so they would not slide back into the opening. I could not lift the door off-too heavy- to get closer to the back of the oven to put the clips and screws back on so I laid the oven on its back after putting the back cover on. The oven door was so heavy then that I had to prop the oven door open with my 24 inch rolling pin. I then leaned down into the oven and managed to get the clips and the screws back in. I then put the oven upright again, plugged it in, then had to re-level the whole thing. I turned it on and it worked. This probably would have been easier if I were not 65 years old and had some help. I was not giving up though. I got it done.

ordered replacement glass. removed oven door. dismantled parts, replaced glass and reassembled door and reattached to oven.

Most of the basics have been covered in previous post. I can add this- those who claim 15 minute-fixes are delusional, unless they're appliance repairmen. Secondly- what will take time is the cleaning. If you have to do this repair, which requires extensive disassembly of the door, it would be foolish not to take advantage of the opportunity to thoroughly clean all four layers of glass. Take the glass panes outside and use oven cleaner. This takes time. Other than that, the pancakeing of the components on re-assembly is tricky, but you can do it. Don

Sensor matched perfect, but had to pull large upper rear panel to find location. From there took a few minutes to reassemble back. Did not un hook gas but turned it off. Obviously unplugged power. Oven works fine.

I searched Whirlpool, Sears and random appliance stores and Part Select was the only company to have the lens available. All other manufacturers said the lens was no longer manufactured as a stand alone piece and I would have to buy the entire light assembly. Thank you Parts Select!!!!!

That should have been an easy repair according to previous responders that replaced this part.

The first issue is the Phillips head screw that fastens the sensor to the back of the oven was frozen and I had to drill it out.

The second issue was I could not pull the connector through the hole where the sensor wires pass. I decided to cut the sensor wires and use wire connectors to attach the sensor as instructed in the sheet provided with the sensor.

NOTE: You MUST use third party "gray" colored wire connectors that you can purchase in a hardware store. - the connectors provided DO NOT have a metal insert and even after several attempts would not grab the wires.

Another caution is you should use a self-tapping sheet metal screw to fasten the sensor to the oven wall if you encounter the same frozen screw that I did!

After I installed the sensor I tested the oven but found that this DID NOT solve the problem! I needed to order the "hidden" bake element that is mounted under the bottom oven wall and also the broil/bake element that is mounted inside of the oven on the top. See my comments for the Bake Element (bottom)

In my situation I thought that I needed an Oven Temperature Sensor so I started by replacing the Oven Temperature Sensor PS388521 -

PLEASE NOTE: You CANNOT reliably do a continuity check on the bake element described here until you have completed te first four steps!!

PLEASE NOTE: Access to the lower bake element is via the RIGHT SIDE PANEL!

To replace the lower heating element (aka the bake or hidden element). These instructions are specific for the KESC307xxxx:

1. Disconnect power to the oven.

2. Move oven from it's location to gain access to the right side panel.

3. Remove the oven drawer (if any).

3. Remove three screws holding the right side panel in place and remove panel. Two of the screws are on the rear of the range. The third is accessed via the cavity where the oven drawer is mounted.

4. CAREFULLY disconnect both wires connected to the element terminals.

5. Remove one screw (not shown) from Shield-HT (item 8 in http://bit.ly/O52AP2) and remove the shield.

6. Carefully pull back fiberglass insulation to reveal cover-access panel.

7. Remove two screws that hold the element to the cover-access panel (item 3 in http://bit.ly/NjvzOi).

8. Remove one screw holding the cover-access panel in place.

9. Remove both element and cover-access panel. NOTE: Observe the orientation of the brackets that support the element so you can install the new element correctly!

10. Installation is the reverse of these steps but make sure you replace the fiberglass insulation correctly or you will experience problems with heat transfer and a possible hot-spot on the side of the oven.

Per the instructions listed in your customer replies

I followed the instructions submitted by other users which were helpful. Two notes that might help someone. 1. To loosen the screws holding the inner door glass, use channel lock type pliers to slightly twist the square bracket the screw is holding. The screw comes out easily then. 2. Note that the flange on the side rails go UNDER the glass door front. I spent quite a bit of time trying to get screw holes lined up with the flanges on top - DUH!