KERC607HBL5 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Ordered the part. when it arrived-quite speedily, I just unpacked it and put the cotton gasket around the glass and screwed it to the proper place in the oven. Very easy.

First , I turned off the circuit breaker to the oven.
Next, I removed the two screws at the front of the range top and slid the top out until I could disconnect the multi-plug connecting the wiring harness to the stove.
I then took the entire top out to a table and set it upside down. It was easy to unbolt and disconnect the lead to the element. One of the leads was burnt, so I had to replace it. I slid the new element into place, bolted it down in the same orientation as the old one and reconnected the leads.

I slid the entire top back into place on the range and re-installed the securing screws. Then I flipped on the circuit breaker and turned the element on.
Success! Perhaps I didn't really need to change the element since the burnt lead was the cause of failure. But its good to have a new part installed anyway.

As others have said, the repair is easy and it's just a matter of unscrewing the screws (with a drill, not with a hand screwdriver) and carefully arranging the parts so you can reassemble in the same order. The trickiest part for me was removing the door. The flat metal part of the hinge extends straight back into the stove about four inches. You need to open the door a bit (about 45 degrees worked for me, but any angle where you feel you have leverage vis-a-vis the hinge will work) and then lift the door at the hinge slightly while pulling straight back. I was worried the hinge would spring out and cut my fingers off, so I kept my fingers away. As it turns out the hinges didn't snap down once the door was removed, so at least on my stove the hinges were not as scary as I imagined they could be. The whole process was a one-person job, though if you have two people, it would be nice to have one person on each side of the door while removing it and replacing it when done. All in all, it was definitely worth it in time and money to do this repair myself -- the oven was back up and working within a day of the broken glass, and I'm sure I couldn't have gotten it done any sooner had I called someone to repair it.

took out the old dome cover and replaced it with a new one by unscrewing and replaced the new one and a fiberglass gasket. simple.

removed 4 scews underside of door 2 more at top to remove door handle. than removed front door panel. removed inner sheild by bending 4 tabs.removed outside door glass than insideglass. reversed process to complete.

Pulled the oven door out. Took the whole door apart and put it back together. The first time I put it back together the inner glass was still loose so I had to take it apart again and figure out how to hold everything together tightly. Your part was perfect. The glass was exactly the same as two others in the oven door. I wish I had instructions but when the parts fit it sure helps.

Had to remove side panel then very easy

The first time I took the door apart to see what part to order it was difficult. The second time I knew what I was in for and was more prepared. Replacing the hinges were no problem. It was taking apart the door that was more difficult.

Just as others said. Remove top holdown bolts with nut driver. Prop range top up.
Use a pair of plyers to remove wires (make sure you have a diagram to restore).
Use screwdriver to remove element hold down spring and wire holder. Replace element and replace wires and screws.

took the door off, removed the screws, removed the back of the door, took the broken glass out, put new glass in, reassemble door, put door back on.

Removed door parts & cleaned each, till the glass was reached. Replaced glass and reinstalled parts in order removed.

looked on internet on how to remove top. an easy fix after watching video

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

This worked very well, thanks to the advice posted from other users. The only part that was a bit unclear was removing the door. There are small, slotted metal pieces screwed into the sides of the oven to hold the door hinges in the slots. After removing those, I had to hold the door and push it up and down, and a little bit side to side, to get the hinges to start sliding out, but they did. There are no other screws or brackets holding them in place. The hinges are on springs, so they do snap up when they come out of the slots in the sides of the oven. But they only snap to a 90 degree angle, so they won't cut your fingers off. You'd have to hold your fingers right on them to even get pinched. After that, I just kept taking screws out of the door until I got through to the back panel, replaced it, and put it all back together.

removed side and back strips after pulling out stove, removed top glass , installed new insulating tape around edges fitted new top on stove and replaced trim strips.