KGRT500FAL2 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

I took a jewelers screwdriver and completely cleaned out what was left of the old pads. Then applied a small amount of heat resistant rtv sealant to each hole, slid in the new pads and wiped off the excess. I let everything set overnight. The next day everything was solid. Job was complete. Note I've done this before and did not get the results I did this time. I believe it was the instruction that came with the pads and the tip-off to use the rtv. Thank you PartSelect T.Garr

Instructions on line were very helpful. The only problem was getting the screws loose on the clamps that held the glass in. If I was going to redesign this door I would use Hex head screws that can be removed with a nut driver. Most of the time for the job was taken up by cleaning off accumulated grease. You will be surprised how much gunk can get inside the door.

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

Take 4 screws off to remove oven pan, once pan is off , you can see the igniter. Take off two screws and remove old igniter. Be sure to run wires on new igniter where they were on the old igniter.

Replaced valve, 3 pipe connections 4 wire connections, still did not work, small flip up valve was set at off position, set to on, still did not work, replaced ignitor, bingo that was the real problem, reinstalled old valve, still working fine; returned new valve assembly for full refund! Thank You

Sensor matched perfect, but had to pull large upper rear panel to find location. From there took a few minutes to reassemble back. Did not un hook gas but turned it off. Obviously unplugged power. Oven works fine.

The oven light gasket had deteriorated with time and bulb changes. It is a self cleaning oven, which gets very hot during the cleaning cycle. The oven is old (27years) and off the "books" I selected a similar, but slightly smaller gasket (3" OD), and "fit" it to the 3.5" light fixture of the older oven. The gasket material was similar to the original, and I used a usable portion of the original,along with the new gasket to build a gasket for the light lense. Several years prior to this repair, I replaced the oven door springs. Whirlpool, who had taken over what was left of Chambers, had the springs. I did replace one heating element about 15 years ago. The Chamber's salesman told me that the Chambers was the "Cadillac" of all ovens, and it seems to keep running.

I did the repair following your instructions and it went very well. Now the temperature is working good , but the oven is heating up very slow. So now what should I do to fix the oven?

Replacing the igniter took care of the problem. I just wish I had made better notes about how the wire were routed. It would have saved time as I re-assembled everything. Th ejob itself was really easy.

I watched some videos on YouTube first that said you could flip a latch on the door hinges and remove the door entirely. On this older oven there was no latch, you just open the door to its first position and lift up and out to remove the door. Unlike newer doors leave this one face up on a table to work on it. Remove all (10?) of the screws along the bottom edge, pull away the side door trim pieces, then remove the outside panel of the door by lifting slightly then pulling downwards. Mine was actually a glass panel, so be careful. Remove the two screws holding the upper door trim down onto the hinge mechanisms and rotate the trim out of the way. Lift off the large metal cover to expose the first, outer glass, then remove the insulation, then remove the screws and clips holding down the metal frame around the inner glass. Clean everything well (I used a baking soda paste), then replace in the reverse order.

My wife was complaining about poor baking results with the oven in the home we just purchased, so I hooked up my digital temperature meter and found it was almost 50 degrees of, so I tried the ovens off set program to bring it closer into range. That did the trick ,but she complained about poor baking still. I watched the oven cycle about 8 times and saw her problem. The oven was inconsistent when dropping below set temps, some times it was 20 degrees off, other times it was 80+ degrees off before the element kicked back on. I started with the sensor, it came with easy instructions including wire hi temperature wire nuts if the connectors didn't match... which they didn't. It was very easy to access the senor for replacement. Just unscrew about 10 screws, pull the back access panel off and there it is. Cut the connectors on both ends making sure to leave plenty of wire on each end. Wire nut them together and reinstall the back panel. Reset the oven off set back to zero and check the oven temp watching about 6 cycles. Comes right on now, and her first baking effort came out great...I am pretty sure that was the problem.

Followed instruction on web site

The stove burners and oven broiler worked fine so it was obviously something with the oven ignition. My oven is 14 years old so it made sense that the ignition would wear out. I followed the instructions provided on the PartSelect website for this repair and it worked perfectly. Very easy fix!

That should have been an easy repair according to previous responders that replaced this part.

The first issue is the Phillips head screw that fastens the sensor to the back of the oven was frozen and I had to drill it out.

The second issue was I could not pull the connector through the hole where the sensor wires pass. I decided to cut the sensor wires and use wire connectors to attach the sensor as instructed in the sheet provided with the sensor.

NOTE: You MUST use third party "gray" colored wire connectors that you can purchase in a hardware store. - the connectors provided DO NOT have a metal insert and even after several attempts would not grab the wires.

Another caution is you should use a self-tapping sheet metal screw to fasten the sensor to the oven wall if you encounter the same frozen screw that I did!

After I installed the sensor I tested the oven but found that this DID NOT solve the problem! I needed to order the "hidden" bake element that is mounted under the bottom oven wall and also the broil/bake element that is mounted inside of the oven on the top. See my comments for the Bake Element (bottom)

removed one screw lifted he brner took retainer off unpluged the igniter it had broken porcelen reversed the procedure everything worked fine