KEDS207YAL2 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Removed 3 screws on bottom edge of door,2 screws on top edge of door. Outside of door comes off. Then use a 1/4 nut driver and remove glass window supports until you get to the inner door glass. Reverse to assemble. Gasket was okey.

Take the time to pull off the door from the hinge; which is to simply pull it up to release with the door open approx. 4 inches. Have a Philips head screwdriver and a nut driver set available. Keep the screws grouped and the take it apart in the logical sequence. It took about 30 minutes total to complete the job. But then again, it was a woman who did it!

First I removed the bottom oven drawer from the stove. Then I removed all the screws from the outer oven door. Then I removed the screws from the inter door panel and needed assistance to remove the first glass panel and frame. Then I removed the second panel of glass and frame. Then I removed the third panel of glass that was broken. The gasket was the last part to be removed. Getting the new gasket to stay put while putting the new glass panel next to it was the hard part. I needed assistance to place the glass against the gasket and then place the frame back on this panel. Once this mission was accomplished. It was a matter of getting the next glass panel put back in the frame. and replacing the inter door panel and putting the screws back in. Then I put the third glass panel and screws back in. Once this was accomplished , I put the outer door back and put the screens back in the outer door.

Lots of screws but if you have the proper sized nut driver it goes quite easily. Take time to see how the inner glass is mounted to the oven door. There are also screws on the bottom of the door that you need to remove to get the inner panel off. The door itself can stay on the hinges

Simple, just pull out old burners and slide new ones in place. Tried both, they work excellent!

I just had to pull out the old burner and straighten the prongs for the new burner and insert, The prongs of the new burner were slightly bent in shipment, but were easy to straighten with the pliers. The burners were sent in a bag and not a box -- therefore the prongs were easily bent. I was very pleased that I (73 year old lady) was able to fix my stove without a repairman. Saved $$$

REMOVE BACK COVER. UN PLUG, REMOVE TWO SCREWS IN SIDE OVEN, PULL OUT , REPLACE, REATTACH, FIXED CODE F-3

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

I removed surface burner and drip pan from stove. Then drilled out the remaining part of the old stabilizer clip. Once clip was removed I installed the new stabilizer clip with the screw and nut that came with the clip. Then I placed the drip pan back into position and installed the burner and locked it into the new clip.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Unplugged old burner elements. Popped in new burners. Turned on the burners to test.

Replaced with the new burner works like new. Thanks a bunch!

pulled out the old burner, plugged in the new burner. Turned on the power and it heated up very quickly.

The repair was a trivial effort as all parts simply lift off the range top by hand. The impetus for replacement was pretty much looks driven.

Simple. But beware changing just the bulb when the gasket is not secure.