KGST307HBT2 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

I followed the instructions submitted by other users which were helpful. Two notes that might help someone. 1. To loosen the screws holding the inner door glass, use channel lock type pliers to slightly twist the square bracket the screw is holding. The screw comes out easily then. 2. Note that the flange on the side rails go UNDER the glass door front. I spent quite a bit of time trying to get screw holes lined up with the flanges on top - DUH!

removing the screws holding the burner together was impossible. they snapped off and I had to drill them out. that took the most time. after that it was 100% easy hookup. clean up of the burner was done with a wire brush. good quality products. thanks.

ordered replacement glass. removed oven door. dismantled parts, replaced glass and reassembled door and reattached to oven.

Replaced valve, 3 pipe connections 4 wire connections, still did not work, small flip up valve was set at off position, set to on, still did not work, replaced ignitor, bingo that was the real problem, reinstalled old valve, still working fine; returned new valve assembly for full refund! Thank You

That should have been an easy repair according to previous responders that replaced this part.

The first issue is the Phillips head screw that fastens the sensor to the back of the oven was frozen and I had to drill it out.

The second issue was I could not pull the connector through the hole where the sensor wires pass. I decided to cut the sensor wires and use wire connectors to attach the sensor as instructed in the sheet provided with the sensor.

NOTE: You MUST use third party "gray" colored wire connectors that you can purchase in a hardware store. - the connectors provided DO NOT have a metal insert and even after several attempts would not grab the wires.

Another caution is you should use a self-tapping sheet metal screw to fasten the sensor to the oven wall if you encounter the same frozen screw that I did!

After I installed the sensor I tested the oven but found that this DID NOT solve the problem! I needed to order the "hidden" bake element that is mounted under the bottom oven wall and also the broil/bake element that is mounted inside of the oven on the top. See my comments for the Bake Element (bottom)

I took a jewelers screwdriver and completely cleaned out what was left of the old pads. Then applied a small amount of heat resistant rtv sealant to each hole, slid in the new pads and wiped off the excess. I let everything set overnight. The next day everything was solid. Job was complete. Note I've done this before and did not get the results I did this time. I believe it was the instruction that came with the pads and the tip-off to use the rtv. Thank you PartSelect T.Garr

The stove burners and oven broiler worked fine so it was obviously something with the oven ignition. My oven is 14 years old so it made sense that the ignition would wear out. I followed the instructions provided on the PartSelect website for this repair and it worked perfectly. Very easy fix!

My wife was complaining about poor baking results with the oven in the home we just purchased, so I hooked up my digital temperature meter and found it was almost 50 degrees of, so I tried the ovens off set program to bring it closer into range. That did the trick ,but she complained about poor baking still. I watched the oven cycle about 8 times and saw her problem. The oven was inconsistent when dropping below set temps, some times it was 20 degrees off, other times it was 80+ degrees off before the element kicked back on. I started with the sensor, it came with easy instructions including wire hi temperature wire nuts if the connectors didn't match... which they didn't. It was very easy to access the senor for replacement. Just unscrew about 10 screws, pull the back access panel off and there it is. Cut the connectors on both ends making sure to leave plenty of wire on each end. Wire nut them together and reinstall the back panel. Reset the oven off set back to zero and check the oven temp watching about 6 cycles. Comes right on now, and her first baking effort came out great...I am pretty sure that was the problem.

Open oven door. Remove covers from burner tube. Remove 2 screws holding igniter. Remove panel from back of range. Unplug 2 wires attached to igniter. Pull wires thru inside of oven. Reverse process to install new igniter.

Removed the back access panel of the stove. Removed 2 screws holding the temp sensor, replaced temp sensor, Installed back panel. Done 19 minutes.

Removed the door. Took out all the screws. Removed the glass that was cracked. Put in the new piece. Put the screws back in place. Put the door back on and it was a done deal.

Looked online and found it was probably the igniter which wasn't firing. An incredibly gratifying and easy experience with the self-fix. Worked on the first try just like new.

I did the repair following your instructions and it went very well. Now the temperature is working good , but the oven is heating up very slow. So now what should I do to fix the oven?

Replacing the igniter took care of the problem. I just wish I had made better notes about how the wire were routed. It would have saved time as I re-assembled everything. Th ejob itself was really easy.

Followed instruction on web site