KERC607HBS10 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

I ran numerous tests to eliminate the on/off switch and to ensure the wires were not defective. Thus I came to the conclusion it must be the burner was defective. I ordered the part from parts.com. I received the part in less time than what was advertised. The part arrived in good condition. I placed the part in and it worked just like new.

Thank You

I think this does not qualify as a repair. I called and ordered the oven rack, it came in the mail and I put it in the oven. Nothing to it.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

took out the old dome cover and replaced it with a new one by unscrewing and replaced the new one and a fiberglass gasket. simple.

Pulled the oven door out. Took the whole door apart and put it back together. The first time I put it back together the inner glass was still loose so I had to take it apart again and figure out how to hold everything together tightly. Your part was perfect. The glass was exactly the same as two others in the oven door. I wish I had instructions but when the parts fit it sure helps.

removed 4 scews underside of door 2 more at top to remove door handle. than removed front door panel. removed inner sheild by bending 4 tabs.removed outside door glass than insideglass. reversed process to complete.

The first time I took the door apart to see what part to order it was difficult. The second time I knew what I was in for and was more prepared. Replacing the hinges were no problem. It was taking apart the door that was more difficult.

looked on internet on how to remove top. an easy fix after watching video

Had to remove side panel then very easy

took the door off, removed the screws, removed the back of the door, took the broken glass out, put new glass in, reassemble door, put door back on.

Removed door parts & cleaned each, till the glass was reached. Replaced glass and reinstalled parts in order removed.

Just as others said. Remove top holdown bolts with nut driver. Prop range top up.
Use a pair of plyers to remove wires (make sure you have a diagram to restore).
Use screwdriver to remove element hold down spring and wire holder. Replace element and replace wires and screws.

The new element wiring placements were totally different from the old element. Lucky for me the lettering printed on the terminals for each pole was the same as on the old one. It was just a matter of matching up each terminal pole lettering. The instructions that came with the new element were of no help at all. Youtube was my best helper.

This worked very well, thanks to the advice posted from other users. The only part that was a bit unclear was removing the door. There are small, slotted metal pieces screwed into the sides of the oven to hold the door hinges in the slots. After removing those, I had to hold the door and push it up and down, and a little bit side to side, to get the hinges to start sliding out, but they did. There are no other screws or brackets holding them in place. The hinges are on springs, so they do snap up when they come out of the slots in the sides of the oven. But they only snap to a 90 degree angle, so they won't cut your fingers off. You'd have to hold your fingers right on them to even get pinched. After that, I just kept taking screws out of the door until I got through to the back panel, replaced it, and put it all back together.

Followed the instructions in the video provided by PartSelect, which was very accurate. They only problem I have encountered is that the wiring from the old element compared to the new element do not match up 100%. I had to call Whirlpool today and schedule a Tech to come out and see if they can resolve the problem. Right now, when the burner is turned on, both the inner and outer elements turn on.