KERC500EAL4 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

removed oven door from stove. Laid door on work table. Took screws out of the bottom. Flipped each layer over until I got to the interior glass. Removed broken glass and installed new glass. Flipped pieces back in place and put screws back in. Placed oven door back on stove. Easy!!

First of all I couldn't believe parts arrived next day. Parts solved the problem I was reluctant to believe new hinges would solve the problem. I installed the hinges in about 1 hour but I had door apart previously so I knew what I was doing. Now my wife is speaking to me again and she threw the wooden spoon away that she used to hold door closed. Just spent $100 dollars and saved $1600 thanks guys.

One screw on each of the two cover plates removed, then element is pulled out enough to get at the connections. These are small blade connectors that slide off, two on each side, so 4 all together. The problem for me was that on one side the wires were to short and as soon as the blade connection was released the wire pulled back through the hole and was difficult to retrieve because it was hiding in the insulation. If I were to do this again I would use a small zip tie around the wire before disconnecting it so I would have something to pull it back out with.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

I received the replacement broil element for my Kitchenaid model KESH307 range 34 hours after placing the order online with PartSelect.com! I had previously removed the old element and verified that the outer circuit was open. I did this without removing the oven door. I realized that to install the new element with the door on would require me to have 5 foot long arms and a very flexible 2 foot long neck.

Turns out there are at least 3 different styles of door mounting in the Kitchenaid line. I found the correct one for my range, and when the new element arrived, I had the door off in a jiffy. Enlisting my spouse to hold the oven door switch so as to keep the light off (It shown in my eyes.), I installed the new element with minimal difficulty. It took me about 20 minutes.

Thank you PartSelect for being there and for the really quick delivery.

Replace was not quite like video. I could not remove door so I had to replace glass with door in place. I just kept removing screws until I was able to get to the door. Video helped me know what to expect, double panels, double glass, insulation, rope seal, no caulking. I took pictures with my phone when there was a bracket/spacer that was not obvious on how it went back together. Glass was the perfice size. Thanks partselect!

Instructions on line were very helpful. The only problem was getting the screws loose on the clamps that held the glass in. If I was going to redesign this door I would use Hex head screws that can be removed with a nut driver. Most of the time for the job was taken up by cleaning off accumulated grease. You will be surprised how much gunk can get inside the door.

Had difficulty removing the two screws holding element(range is eighteen years old.Screws were badly rusted)After that,it was a piece of cake

Turned off electricity at breaker, slid stove out from wall. Disconnected unit. Removed back panel (4screws). Disconnected double broiler wires from the back. Unscrewed element bracket from back wall of oven (2 screws). Removed and replaced element and replaced screws to back wall of oven. Reconnected wires on the back of the oven where element connectors protrude from oven wall. Replaced back panel (4 screws). Removed oven door by pulling forward (no screws involved). Removed screws from bottom of door holding trim on (7 screws). Removed bottom trim and side trim. Removed front glass. Removed inner portion of door (it's just stacked together sandwiching some insulation). Removed track holding 2 glass panels (6 screws and pressure brackets). Removed one screw from corner of track. Removed and replaced inner glass. Lay door flat on floor front down to reassemble. Place glass insulation (looks like rope) around window opening. Lay the track containing he replaced glass down (side with most shallow recess). Replace 6 screws and pressure brackets. Replace large insulation and inner door panel. Reinstall front glass in slots under door handle. Replace oven door back. Reinstall side and bottom trim in reverse order to removal. Replace 7 screws along bottom of door. Reinstall door assembly to oven by sliding tabs back into the range. Done!

It was difficult to reach the back of the oven inside to remove screws. I had to use an extended socket with a bit tip. When I tried to remove the element from the clips, the clips slid back inside the insulation at the back of the oven. I had to take the back panel off of the oven, push the clips through the opening and then I used a bag clip to hold them so they would not slide back into the opening. I could not lift the door off-too heavy- to get closer to the back of the oven to put the clips and screws back on so I laid the oven on its back after putting the back cover on. The oven door was so heavy then that I had to prop the oven door open with my 24 inch rolling pin. I then leaned down into the oven and managed to get the clips and the screws back in. I then put the oven upright again, plugged it in, then had to re-level the whole thing. I turned it on and it worked. This probably would have been easier if I were not 65 years old and had some help. I was not giving up though. I got it done.

Removed rear panel (6 screws) and disconnected the four connectors on the Broil element. Then removed the 4 screws holding the the element to the top of the oven cavity. Inserted new element and connected the 4 screws to secure it. Connected the four connectors and re-installed the rear panel.

Removed back panel on stove and found no continuity in bake element indicating a break in the element circuit. Also tested electrical supply up to the element and found that we had electricity up to the element when the oven was turned on. Went on line and ordered the bake element and it was on my doorstep in 48 hours. Remove 2 screws inside oven and disconnect wires from the rear and install new element and plug the 2 wires into it, replace rear panel ( 3screws) and turn electricity back on to the stove and you are back in business.

The part came in 2 days even though I chose the least expensive shipping method. The hardest part was unscrewing the old screws that held the old bake element in place. We soaked them in WD40, and after a while were able to unscrew them. The new element slid in place and works just fine.

I watched some videos on YouTube first that said you could flip a latch on the door hinges and remove the door entirely. On this older oven there was no latch, you just open the door to its first position and lift up and out to remove the door. Unlike newer doors leave this one face up on a table to work on it. Remove all (10?) of the screws along the bottom edge, pull away the side door trim pieces, then remove the outside panel of the door by lifting slightly then pulling downwards. Mine was actually a glass panel, so be careful. Remove the two screws holding the upper door trim down onto the hinge mechanisms and rotate the trim out of the way. Lift off the large metal cover to expose the first, outer glass, then remove the insulation, then remove the screws and clips holding down the metal frame around the inner glass. Clean everything well (I used a baking soda paste), then replace in the reverse order.

Remove two screws. Plug n play.