KDRS462VSS03 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

This problem was driving me crazy for months. Of course, after I bought and installed the part and it still was not fixed I finally found a website that told me how to fix the clicking. The problem is that the removable head burners (#8 on the top assembly diagram) are not making good electrical contact with the base burners (#22). What I did was grab the head burners and grind them back and forth into the base burners with the weight on the heal of my hand. Steel wool or sandpaper would work too--you just want to clean the surfaces to restore electrical contact.
If you still want to know how to replace the spark module start by removing #24. This will allow the removal of #9 (after you take the knobs off). You may have to do some fiddling cause the rubber gasket is sticky. Next there are 2 obvious regular screws for #14 and 2 not so obvious star screws in the space where the burner valves are. After #14 is off there are 2 screws on the spark module to be removed and one that you can't loosen that is in a slot. You wriggle the module out of that one.

Not a repair. Just needed to replace the meat probe sensor for the programmable oven. Quick and easy purchase and very fast delivery took care of the problem. I was back in business.

Safety first always shut breaker off at box.
I unplugged stove, disconnected wires keeping in mind the color placement. Unscrewed one ground screw and removed terminal block. Attached new block with ground screw, replaced wires in correct order, re-attached plug. Then reattached safety cover. Pretty simple for d.i.y.

I discoverd my switch box locked with my stove electrical port and stove stopped functioning. Pulled my stove back and saw that the "terminal block" was melted on one side; hence, switch box locked in place to avoid a fire, thank goodness. Looked up part on internet, unplugged stove, took off terminal box, ordered part and replaced. BTW - PART SELECT is awesome; I received my part the very next day!!! :-) Very happy with their service.

I cut the ends of the cord and went with direct wire (no round eye clip) to the back side of the terminal block and tightened firmly. It took about 20 Minutes.

Replaced oven temp sensor, removed oven door and interior racks for easy access to oven upper rear sensor access. Used philips head screw driver to remove both screws, gently pulled old senor out of reat oven wall until electrical connector clear of rear wall, disconnected connector, connected new sensor and gently pushed wiring and connector back into opening, reinstalled door and racks. Ran open thru cycle and used oven thermometer to check temp. fast easy install

After unplugging electric service, loosened 3 Philips-head screws holding 3 wires from range and loosened 3 nuts holding wires from electric cord. Also removed 1 Philips-head screw holding grounding tab. Removed 2 Philips-head screws and removed the old block. Mounted new block with those screws and replaced and tightened all 6 wires.

pull old ones out of legs. need to glue new ones in, they fit too loose. Some kits contain glue. get some high temp head gasket cement. a drop on each one is plenty. I used some old porcelain glue and hope it will hold. the pads are 2 bucks each plus shipping so don't let them get away!!!

Pull the end of the lens nearest the oven door out of the oven wall. Because our oven is several years old and the bulbs had not been previously changed, I could not pull the lens out with my hand, so used two small screwdriver under the metal tabs which hold the lens in place, the metal holder came out with the lens. Once the lens is removed, simply pull out the old bulb and, either while wearing surgical gloves or holding the bulb with a cloth (do NOT allow bare skin to touch the bulb or you will be replacing it again sooner rather than later), push the new bulb's pins into the socket. The lens then is simply pushed back into place.

Since the problem would only occur when the right front burner was on, I first replaced the ignitor, but the problem persisted. To replace the spark module I had to pull the range out of the nook it is in in the counter top. Then (after ensuring that the power was off) I removed the back cover. The spark module was easily located and removing two screws and disconnecting a few wires liberated it. The new one went in easily since it is the same part number and an exact match. Put the back on and check that the problem was solved. Done!

Removed the small access cover on the bottom of the cooktop by reaching inside and under the cabinets. Removed the module which was held by two hex head screws, unplugged the wires noting the location and color of the wires. Plugged the wires into the new module in the proper locations as noted previously. Attached the module with two screws, and then attached the cover/access plate with two screws. Problem resolved, repair was easy.

Installed new spark module by removing back panel of stove. Removed two screws holding old module. Disconnect lines, marking colors. Installed new. Problem not solved. Out $128 since new module was not returnable after install.
Called Judd and Black service department. Tech came on service call. Said it was bad gas valve. They ordered part. Than needed two weeks to install. I installed it and problem persisted. Could not return part because I installed it myself. Out $180. I had cleaned ignitor with alcohol from top. Took apart cooktop and cleaned from bottom. Problem fixed for free. Out over $500 in parts and labor.

Removed old terminal block & replaced with new one. Very simple. Did NOT have to replace cover as stated you should. Shipping could have been a little faster. Will definetly try this site again.

Remove rear panel - remove sensor from inside - unplug from rear - reverse to install - did not fix problem

Pulled the stove out, unscrewed the back and plugged the new thermostat in. Screwed the back back on