YKGST307HS0 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Remove the bottom panel and confirmed that the igniter was not lighting. Unsrcrew the igniter from the housing in the oven, then removed the back of the range and unplugged two leads from their conections and ran the wires through the insulated back wall of the oven. To replace the part just did the opposite of above. Piece of Cake. Want to say also that I was astounded at the speed in which I received my part. Ordered it at 3:30 PM on Friday afternoon and received it by 10 AM Saturday. And with standard delivery! Thanks!

I went to the source of power on the stove and noticed one of the terminals had come loose from the terminal block and had shorted out against the cover of the terminal junction. After prying the loose terminal off cover I ordered new terminal block and received it the 2nd day. I removed the old terminal block and replaced the part in about 10 minutes..Thank you Parts Select for your easy to find diagrams and quick delivery.

Very simple, cleaned out what was remaining of the old rubber feet and just pushed these in. I didn't bother glueing them in as I didn't feel they would fall out. If they do, I'll go out and obtain the glue that is mentioned by others in this thread. Very satisfied.

I was not around the entire time a neighbor was working to get the door removed. He only said he had to remove an additional screw so I'm not sure I can be of much help here.Once the door was removed however, the repair went easily. I would tell anyone needing this repair to be prepared to clean a number of crevices around the door. I was glad to have a chance to clean these hidden places.Let me also said customer service rep was wonderful.

Took door apart no problem had a little trouble putting it back together just one piece I put back wrong had to start over not to bad still took less then one hour

The oven light gasket had deteriorated with time and bulb changes. It is a self cleaning oven, which gets very hot during the cleaning cycle. The oven is old (27years) and off the "books" I selected a similar, but slightly smaller gasket (3" OD), and "fit" it to the 3.5" light fixture of the older oven. The gasket material was similar to the original, and I used a usable portion of the original,along with the new gasket to build a gasket for the light lense. Several years prior to this repair, I replaced the oven door springs. Whirlpool, who had taken over what was left of Chambers, had the springs. I did replace one heating element about 15 years ago. The Chamber's salesman told me that the Chambers was the "Cadillac" of all ovens, and it seems to keep running.

Take 4 screws off to remove oven pan, once pan is off , you can see the igniter. Take off two screws and remove old igniter. Be sure to run wires on new igniter where they were on the old igniter.

Replaced valve, 3 pipe connections 4 wire connections, still did not work, small flip up valve was set at off position, set to on, still did not work, replaced ignitor, bingo that was the real problem, reinstalled old valve, still working fine; returned new valve assembly for full refund! Thank You

Per the instructions listed in your customer replies

That should have been an easy repair according to previous responders that replaced this part.

The first issue is the Phillips head screw that fastens the sensor to the back of the oven was frozen and I had to drill it out.

The second issue was I could not pull the connector through the hole where the sensor wires pass. I decided to cut the sensor wires and use wire connectors to attach the sensor as instructed in the sheet provided with the sensor.

NOTE: You MUST use third party "gray" colored wire connectors that you can purchase in a hardware store. - the connectors provided DO NOT have a metal insert and even after several attempts would not grab the wires.

Another caution is you should use a self-tapping sheet metal screw to fasten the sensor to the oven wall if you encounter the same frozen screw that I did!

After I installed the sensor I tested the oven but found that this DID NOT solve the problem! I needed to order the "hidden" bake element that is mounted under the bottom oven wall and also the broil/bake element that is mounted inside of the oven on the top. See my comments for the Bake Element (bottom)

I followed the instructions submitted by other users which were helpful. Two notes that might help someone. 1. To loosen the screws holding the inner door glass, use channel lock type pliers to slightly twist the square bracket the screw is holding. The screw comes out easily then. 2. Note that the flange on the side rails go UNDER the glass door front. I spent quite a bit of time trying to get screw holes lined up with the flanges on top - DUH!

Removed the door. Took out all the screws. Removed the glass that was cracked. Put in the new piece. Put the screws back in place. Put the door back on and it was a done deal.

Pulled insulation out of the way to feed wires through. Might have helped to tie pull string to old wires but fishing them through was not to difficult.No need to cut wires; it is not a good idea to make unnecessary splices.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

Sensor matched perfect, but had to pull large upper rear panel to find location. From there took a few minutes to reassemble back. Did not un hook gas but turned it off. Obviously unplugged power. Oven works fine.