KGRK201TBL0 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

I removed the two screws that attach the sensor to the oven wall. Then removed to more screws in the back of the oven and took off the rear cover, diconnected the sensor connector and installed the new sensor.

First I released the lock on the oven door hinge so that I could take the door off by lifting it up and out. Then it was just a matter of removing screws, replacing the hinges, and putting it back together. I did have to guess a little as I started removing screws as I wasn't sure exactly what to remove, but it became pretty self evident as I looked it over. Not as bad as I had expected.

Remove the oven racks. Slide the two catches, located at each rear corner of the oven bottom, toward the front of the oven.

Lift the rear edge of the oven bottom slightly, then slide it back until the front edge of the oven bottom clears the oven front frame. Remove oven bottom from oven.

Pulled storage drawer out to the first stop position. Lift up front of drawer and pull to the second stop position.
Grasp sides and lift up and out.

Under storage area, I removed two screws to remove a steel plate. In the oven, I removed two screws that held on the Oven Igniter. Unplugged the Igniter under the storage area.

Plugged in the new Oven Igniter, replace the two screws that held the Oven Igniter, replace the two screws for the steel plate. Put the storage drawer back, the bottom of the oven back and the racks.

It was easier than I though it would be.

After reading some of the repair stories, I was hesitant about doing this task. It was really very simple, I just removed the screws from the back of the stove, and removed the old element. I then replaced it with the new one and replaced the back cover. This whole task from start to finish took 10 minutes. The oven heats perfectly now just like a new oven.

Had to unplug unit, remove back of unit (6 screws), then unscrew oven sensor (2 screws), then unplugged old sensor, replaced it and put back of oven on...Moving the oven out and working in the tight space avaialble was the most difficult. Other than that, super easy job that probably saved me a lot of $$$...

The repair was easy. Partselect processed my order quickly and my part was delivered sooner than I expected.

Removing the old igniter was simple. I took off the oven door to create easy access to the oven. I then unplugged the connection and removed the screws that held the older igniter in place. Installing the new igniter was almost as easy. I followed the same steps as above, but in reverse. I accidentally dropped one of the screws, so installation probably took 1 minute longer than removal. :)

I'm a very satisfied customer.

After shutting the main valve behind stove. Removed all shelves and rear cover from stove. Unplugged the plug to the sensor. Removed the two mounting screws and pulled the old sensor out. Installed new sensor and plugged it in again. After reinstalling the rear cover and shelves, replugged in power, openned the gas valve behind the stove and tested with soapy water to make sure there wasn't ant developed leaks. Turned on oven with a test thermometer in it. Monitored operation and now oven temperature is roughly 10 to 20 degrees to the setpoint.

Removed back of stove, removed screws from sensor inside oven, unplugged connector from back of stove, pulled sensor out through oven; installed new sensor, replaced back of stove. Set the oven to bake, waited for it to pre-heat; the oven thermometer showed that the same problem was occurring, the sensor replacement didn't work.

needed to completely dis assemble the oven door to get to the inner pane of glass...took some time...I was able to do it on my own...could possibly go a little quicker with two people for a few of the steps...but possible by one...then reinserted the glass pane...and then need to re assemble the door layer by layer...up and working again...would have cost several hundred dollars if need to call a repair person in...this way was the cost of the piece..less than $70 ... and my time...well worth it....thanks

Remove the screw on the front of each side, also there are two screws holding the burner controls. Remove the burner knobs. There are two screws holding the burner head to the top of the burner panel, looking down on the burner head, these will not come out easily. Here's where the drill comes in. Drill the two screws head off, there are two gas line connections that must be removed, be careful not to twist the gas line. Remove the burner head and replace with the new one. When replacing the burner head, screw the gas line to the burner head first, then to the main gas control.

First I removed the burner to which the igniter was attached to. Then I attempted to removed the two screws holding the igniter in place. However, these screws proved to be difficult. I called a local appliance repair shop and the person I spoke to explained how the screws were designed to go one way. Any attempt to remove these screws would result in the threading to be stripped and virtually impossible to remove. (I have never heard of these type of screws before) Anyway, he recommended a hack-saw. Well, the hack-saw worked. After that, the replacing of the part was very easy. Igniter works perfectly and now my wife is ready to conquer the bake sales.
This was my first time using partselect.com.
Yes, I will recommend them to other homeowners.
Thanks. A.T

My husband and I began to pull the oven out and I realized that it was too heavy for me to hold. Luckily we were able to get another man to help. Other than that it was easy. Also, it took us awhile to figure out which screws secured the oven into the cabinet. We saved over $1000.00 on a new oven and installation. Kudos to everyone who added their comments! They gave us courage to give it a try.

First pulled the oven out and noticed how dirty the floor was underneath. Bachelors are BAD housekeepers. Next I removed the oven door (just slides off the hinges) to make it easier to reach in and unscrew the two screws holding the sensor in place in the upper left back of oven. Screws came out easily. Then I removed the back panel by removing the six screws holding it in place. I unsnapped the temp sensor wiring connection, then pulled the probe out from the front (inside the oven). Installed the new probe by feeding the wires and connector through from the front (inside the oven) and attached it with the two screws. Then went to the back again, snapped the wiring connectors together, and replaced the back panel. Then I scrubbed the floor, pushed the range back in place, reinstalled the door, and gave it a test run. PERFECTION! Heated to within five degrees of setting. EASIEST REPAIR JOB I'VE EVER DONE!

I located the igniter element, and remove the two screws that hold it in place. I then went around to the back of the oven and located the wire, and disconnected it. Then I pulled it out through the oven and removed it. I then replaced it with the new element; pushed the wires through to back of the stove and plugged it in. With that done, I screwed the new igniter element into place. I then put my oven back together; pushed it back into place and turned the gas back on. And presto! my oven lights like new again. I saved myself the costly repairman visit, and the job was easy.

I needed to remove the rear panel to replace the sensor, but unfortunately, that was not the problem. It could have been; but also, it could have been the electronic control, or the gas control valve. This was the cheapest "trial" fix. I did talk to a "Warranty Repair Man", who said that IF it was the electronic control, because of the age of the oven, (13 years) the part would not be available and would need to be fabricated by the manufacture. Even then the cost would approach the cost of a new oven. So, we abandonded the idea of repairs to this one. I guess 13 years is a bit to much to expect of a machine this day and time. Things are made to use-up and throw away. Such is life ! !