KEDS207YWH1 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

I followed the instructions provided.

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

DISCONNECTED POWER AND GAS TO THE RANGE. REMOVED 6 SCREWS FROM REAR OF THE RANGE. REMOVED THE 2 SCREWS HOLDING THE TEMPERATURE SENSOR IN PLACE. DISCONNECTED THE LEAD FOR THE SENSOR. INSTALLED NEW SENSOR IN REVERSE ORDER. OVEN WORKING PROPERLY NOW.

Someone did the repair for me.

Repair was very east. The suppliers package had all of the necessary parts ceramic wire nuts wire Ect. Excellent.
Will buy from Part Select Appliance again.

Shut off power to the stove.
I removed the screw that held the block in place. Then I lifted the top of the rage to get to the wires. I cut the wires from the old block and stripped back the insulation. Next I put the heat shrinking sleeve on. I attached the new block with the wire nuts, pulled the sleeve down and used a hair dryer to shrink them. Then you just hook it back on screw it in and your done.

I removed the block, cut and spliced the wires to the new block and installed the burner. I used the new style block kit and saved about $30. It worked great!

I took the old wires and plug off and replaced it with the new block it works fine

remove burned out eye, replaced with new eye.new eye does not fit exactally correct onto splash pan as point on end of steel " rod " not pointed enough to slip into mate on splash pan

Pop old one out and new one in

Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.

ordered new broiler pan

Pulled out the old burners and put in the new ones.

lifted up burner and pulled it free from its connection, then removed drip pan. used my cordless drill to drill out broken stabilizer clip. cleaned up chips from the drill process before installing new clip. installed clip with enclosed screw and nut. I then installed the new burner by lining it up with the connection under the cook top pushed it place and lowered it into the stabilizer clip. Then I turned the burner on to try it out, but I waited for about one hour before turning on the burner because it was cold from being outside.

The replacement of the glass was easy, I removed the door and placed on work bench. As long as you lay the parts out in an orderly manner the reassembly goes pretty good. The longest time was cleaning the glass's that were dirty from the inner broken glass.
I also reconnected the self cleaning oven lever this required the removal of the oven top. Lot of screws to remove but went ok. I put locktite on the two screws which are extremely short.