KDRP407HSS3 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

This 60 y.o. female had no owners manual. I completely relied on the information of this forum. *Recommend having a work area prepped before starting. I used a thick beach towel on the kitchen table. A layer of newspaper to catch all the dirty bits is a good idea.*You must remove the door - I followed the instructions using the allen wrench in the holes of the hinge. Open door. I put the short end of the wrench in the hole and leaned the long end against the oven rim. Start closing door and when almost closed, lift up to remove.*Place door handle side up on work surface to remove the 4 screws that hold outermost glass in place, 2 at top and two in brackets at bottom. Lay this aside in safe place on table. *Take off each layer to reach broken glass. *The hinge assembly has to be removed and the allen wrenches have to come out in order to accomplish this. Squeeze the hinge to take pressure off wrench to remove. Gloves help protect your hands for this step.Remove 2 screws each side. Keep each hinge next to the side it came from so you reassemble correctly.*If you have a phone with photo capability - I recommend you take a photo of each disassembly step. This saved me when it came to replacing the two brackets that hold the inner two pieces of glass. Clean all parts before reassembly (this takes the longest amount of time). I placed a thick cup towel in my sink and scrubbed. The cleaner I use for my glass range surface worked best. Dry thoroughly. When you get to the shattered glass remove it very carefully to avoid damaging the insulation underneath. I wish I had just purchased replacement insulation. Once the glass is replaced, everything goes back in reverse order. Now, here's the thing. I spent alot of time scrubbing. So, by the time I got to reassembly, I was bamboozled by the two 10 inch aluminum brackets that hold the two inner pieces of glass in place. So, to avoid any confusion, pay close attention to how these two brackets are placed or take pictures. This was an easy fix that went really well thanks to all the helpful info found here.

Removed oven from the wall. Take off back panel. Removed thermal overload thermostat. Replaced with new part and works great.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

This site helped me diagnois the problem rating the suggested problem as a 99% chance cause of the problem. Ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat and it arrived in just two days. Repair was quick and easy once getting the oven removed from the cabinet. (It's very heavy so have some assistance or a sturdy stand to set it out on.)#2 Phillips scredriver and needle nose pliers were only tools needed. Overall, an easy repair for anyone.

I took the door off the hinge, laid it on the kitchen island and began to unscrew the outside screws. Be sure to have a bowl to place all the screws so none fall to the floor. I would recommend taking pictures with a camera phone as you dismantle each piece. The extra time was spent trying to remember how to put the 4 panes of glass back together....and if I had pictures to refer to it would have been easier. SECOND TIP- DO NOT have your husband help with any of this. I probably could have finished in less than 30 minutes if I was doing it by myself. Once he went to bed, the reassembly was much easier.

Went to PartSelect on the internet and looked up my model. Next I selected the problem from a short list of questions, which indicated the broil element was the problem 99% of the time. With this bit of confidence I ordered the part which was delivered in 2 days. The first step in the repair was to turn off the circuit breaker for the oven. After removing four screws that held the broil element in the oven, I pulled the electrical connectors apart on each end of the old element and attached the new unit to the electrical leads. Lastly I pushed all the wiring back inside the back wall of the oven and replaced the four mounting screws. I then performed ops check, which worked. End of story, job done in about 10 to 15 minutes. Easy Peasy.

Turn off power at the breaker panel; remove oven door (see instructions in owners manual) and racks. Take out the 2 screws holding the element to roof of oven; next remove the 2 screws attaching the element at the rear of the oven; pull out element and disconnect wires. Attach new element to the wires and replace the 2 screws holding element to roof of oven. Next replace to 2 screws attaching element to the rear wall. Replace oven racks and door and turn power back on.

With some help from my wife.

re thermostat/fuse breakage after cleaning: I replaced the part a 2nd time within a year, both times after a cleaning cycle and after 10 years of no similar problem . This time, when putting the oven back, I cleaned all around the door frame and noticed the exhaust grill was heavily filled with dust strands. It's possible this reduced the exhaust enough to overheat the oven during long high temp cleaning and blow the thermo fuse. Just a thought.

Removed retainer screw and retainer. Removed old gasket. Installed new gasket, retainer, and retainer screw. Very simple job.

Turned the circuit breaker off, removed trim and the oven screws, pulled oven out, and placed on a stand in front. Electrical cord was just long enough without disconnecting. Removed the back panel, installed the old thermostat with the new one the same way. Used the same phillips screwdriver for the operation. Installed the oven using reverse order. Turn circuit breaker on, back in business. Prior comments definitely helped me a lot. Thanks.

As I did not have a manual, I found all the website instructions very helpful. I had quite a hard time after installing the glass to figure out how to put it back together. The insulation between the oven glass is tricky to keep in tact. I also did not have allen wrenches to keep hinges open, so I used a variety of large bolts and screws. Finally after lots of hours, and almost calling a repairman, I did do it!

After a couple hours of frustration, I finally called the repair man and had it fixed properly. All the instructions I got from the the various websites didn't really address my model. Just getting the door off the over (with my type of lock) was a challenge. It is really important to have the proper tools for this job and I didn't have them. Live and learn.

To prevent this from happening use 7 #8 flat stainless steel washers per the 4 oven door holes that connect to the the handle as shims before securing the attachment brackets.

I was able to convince a local mechanic that he could do this after watching it done four times. The most difficult part was unscrewing and taking out the oven to get to the back. He suggested since this has happened everytime I used the self-cleaning feature, that I cut a hole in the wall for easier access (tongue-in-cheek). The most difficult part was dealing with the extended warranty service plan - this is covered, but they could not find a technician to do this. Then I found out they don't pay mileage so who would want to come out to a rural ND ranch to repair an oven?