KEDS207YBL1 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

The replacement of the glass was easy, I removed the door and placed on work bench. As long as you lay the parts out in an orderly manner the reassembly goes pretty good. The longest time was cleaning the glass's that were dirty from the inner broken glass.
I also reconnected the self cleaning oven lever this required the removal of the oven top. Lot of screws to remove but went ok. I put locktite on the two screws which are extremely short.

I took out the coils manually by pulling them out with slight pressure. Then I lift the hood by first unscrewing the four screws. I have never done anything like this before just intuitive sense to locate the screws that needed to be loosened. Afterwards I remember placing something underneath like a piece of 2x4 wood block to act as support to hold the hood open so I can work on the coils. The parts I got are exactly the same as those I am replacing so I just copied the connection and voila my electric range is working like new. Well of course before I touched anything, I made sure I turned off the main switch and that nobody switches it back on without my knowledge. Thanks for providing the parts, I just saved myself from buying a $600 electric range.

My son ordered the part, which came very fast,
It was a perfect fit, and the job went very smooth. I have no story to tell except that Mom was happy to have the oven again and a VERY helpful son!!!!

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.

First, I removed the oven door by pulling it open to where it loocked and then I pulled it up and off the hinges. Second, I removed the two screws on the top of the door and three screws on the bottom ot the door which allowed me to remove the front of the door. Third, using a nut driver, I removed the frame holding the inner glass to the door and removed that. Fourth, I removed the frame holding the broken glass to the door by removing the screws using my nut driver. I carefully removed the broken glass and vacuumed the channel that had the gasket in it. The gasket was fine so I did not have to replace it and will return it. I placed the glass in the frame on the gasket and reassembled the door in reverse order of how I had disassembled. All went smooth as silk.

Time was do to the fact that I replaced two elements! I turned off the power to the braker box, unplugged the stove and removed the screw holding the element plug in, removed the part, and cut the wires where they were clean looking (not damaged by smoke or the arch) I then stripped the wire and took the new part and twisted the parts together with the caps and then put the heat shrink on and used the blow dryer on them, attached the part to the bracket and screwed it to the hood of the stove plugged the burner in, plugged in the oven and turned on the power tested it worked, did the same for the next burner and yes mind you I am a woman it was very easy to do.

replaced light socket but did not repair problem. must have burned the motherboard.


pleased with service from your company.

Was fairly easy to take door off, and apart. Multiple layers of glass in the door, which all needed cleaning, but re-assembly was rather easy. No tricks or short cuts!

Cut power. Removed four attaching screws and raised stove top. Cut two wires of existing burner plug. Used existing plug to select correct plug configuration from parts in kit. Attached new plug and wires to wiring harness using connectors and heat-shrink tubing supplied with kit. Used hair dryer to shrink tubing on connectors. Closed up stove. Restored power. Burner now functional.

First I lifted the cooktop out of the countertop & removed the screws so I could access under the burners.Then I cut the wires for the old plug-in block & then stripped the wires.Next I connected the new wires with the wire nuts & then used a lighter to shrink wrap the wire nuts.Then I screwed in the new block & re-installed the screws for the cooktop.I put in the new burner & it worked just like new.

The directions were very clear. I removed the heating element, detached the plug-in block by unscrewing the screw, then cut the wires about 3 inches from the block. I put the shrink-wrap collars around the wires leading to the new block, then attached the wires to the cut ends of the wires leading to the back of the stove, using the connectors provided in the kit. I couldn't get the collars to shrink as much as shown in the picture. I attached the new block to the stove top using the screw, plugged in the heating element, and it worked!
So the instructions were good, and the heating element is now working. The only problem was the heat shrink collars that go around the connectors: I couldn't get them to shrink much, but that doesn't seem to matter.

First I removed the one screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.

Unplug power cord, remove wires from block. take 2 screws out. replace with new block about 15 mins. Done

Turned off CB for the oven,Remove the oven from the cabinet , remove the back of the oven, replaced the light Assembly. turned on CB for the oven, tested the light. and truned off the CB and replace the back and reinstalled the oven in the cabinet.

Removed the original burner element sockets and replaced with parts provided in kit. Instructions were simple and easy to follow, problem completely solved in 20 mins!