KEDS207YBL1 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.

I took out the coils manually by pulling them out with slight pressure. Then I lift the hood by first unscrewing the four screws. I have never done anything like this before just intuitive sense to locate the screws that needed to be loosened. Afterwards I remember placing something underneath like a piece of 2x4 wood block to act as support to hold the hood open so I can work on the coils. The parts I got are exactly the same as those I am replacing so I just copied the connection and voila my electric range is working like new. Well of course before I touched anything, I made sure I turned off the main switch and that nobody switches it back on without my knowledge. Thanks for providing the parts, I just saved myself from buying a $600 electric range.

My son ordered the part, which came very fast,
It was a perfect fit, and the job went very smooth. I have no story to tell except that Mom was happy to have the oven again and a VERY helpful son!!!!

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.

First, I removed the oven door by pulling it open to where it loocked and then I pulled it up and off the hinges. Second, I removed the two screws on the top of the door and three screws on the bottom ot the door which allowed me to remove the front of the door. Third, using a nut driver, I removed the frame holding the inner glass to the door and removed that. Fourth, I removed the frame holding the broken glass to the door by removing the screws using my nut driver. I carefully removed the broken glass and vacuumed the channel that had the gasket in it. The gasket was fine so I did not have to replace it and will return it. I placed the glass in the frame on the gasket and reassembled the door in reverse order of how I had disassembled. All went smooth as silk.

replaced light socket but did not repair problem. must have burned the motherboard.


pleased with service from your company.

Time was do to the fact that I replaced two elements! I turned off the power to the braker box, unplugged the stove and removed the screw holding the element plug in, removed the part, and cut the wires where they were clean looking (not damaged by smoke or the arch) I then stripped the wire and took the new part and twisted the parts together with the caps and then put the heat shrink on and used the blow dryer on them, attached the part to the bracket and screwed it to the hood of the stove plugged the burner in, plugged in the oven and turned on the power tested it worked, did the same for the next burner and yes mind you I am a woman it was very easy to do.

Unplug power cord, remove wires from block. take 2 screws out. replace with new block about 15 mins. Done

Turned off CB for the oven,Remove the oven from the cabinet , remove the back of the oven, replaced the light Assembly. turned on CB for the oven, tested the light. and truned off the CB and replace the back and reinstalled the oven in the cabinet.

Removed the original burner element sockets and replaced with parts provided in kit. Instructions were simple and easy to follow, problem completely solved in 20 mins!

First I removed the one screw that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and cut the two wires...)
Assembled the block parts.
Installed shrink sleve and applied wire nuts to electrical connection to 2 wires then shrunk the sleve.
Did the above procedure for 2 heating elements.
They work very well now.

Removed burner and tray. Removed burner connector from stove top using screw driver.
Removed existing heat shrink and wirenuts.
Installed new connector - wire nuts and heat shrink. Used lighter to shrink.
Took 20 minutes.

Turned off the power to the stove. Removed the 'burners' and 'burner' trays. Removed the screw that secured the bad block. Lifted the top of the stove. Cut the two wires to the bad block., stripped the wires about 1/2", slipped the shrink tube over the wires. Connected the new block with two porcelan wire nuts. slipped the shrink tube over the wirenuts and heated it with a lighter. Closed the top and secured the terminal block clip with a screw. Turned the power back on: voila!

All the necessary parts came in the repair kit, delivery was timely. Very easy project.

Was fairly easy to take door off, and apart. Multiple layers of glass in the door, which all needed cleaning, but re-assembly was rather easy. No tricks or short cuts!

First I read some of the other tips provided by the others in order to make it easier for me. I put a of couple of nails on the hinges (in the holes) to prevent them from springing back into the oven. I took the oven door off carefully and laid it on an area rug. Then I took the door apart. I did it slowly so that I wouldn't forget how to put it back together. It wasn't difficult; it just took a little bit of time. So happy that I was able to do it myself. I'm sure I saved quite a bit a money by not having to call an appliance repair shop to do it for me.