KGST300HWH8 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

I went to the source of power on the stove and noticed one of the terminals had come loose from the terminal block and had shorted out against the cover of the terminal junction. After prying the loose terminal off cover I ordered new terminal block and received it the 2nd day. I removed the old terminal block and replaced the part in about 10 minutes..Thank you Parts Select for your easy to find diagrams and quick delivery.

Very simple, cleaned out what was remaining of the old rubber feet and just pushed these in. I didn't bother glueing them in as I didn't feel they would fall out. If they do, I'll go out and obtain the glue that is mentioned by others in this thread. Very satisfied.

Repair was super simple . Any one could have done it.

I did the repair myself while my husband was at work. I lacked the brute strength to remove the door, so I ended up taking in apart while it was in place. Unfortunately, I only now noticed that instructions for installation were provided on your website. I did it without instruction, just making sure to note where screws had been removed so I'd be able to reassemble the works when I was finished. The worst part was loosening a couple of the innermost screws--even after a long soak in wd40, they were really hard to crack loose. Once I managed that, though, it went smoothly. Don't be intimidated; you can do this stuff yourself without calling--and paying--a repairman.

Removed two screws that attach the oven lighter to the burner. Removed the cover from the back side of the oven (3 screws). Unplugged the two wires from the end of the lighter. I taped a piece of string to the wire ends and pulled the unit out. Taped the new wires to the string, and pulled them back through the insulation. Reattached everything and THE OVEN LIT. Thanks, PartSelect, You saved me an expensive service call. Also, the replacement part arrived in less than 24 hours!

First of all I couldn't believe parts arrived next day. Parts solved the problem I was reluctant to believe new hinges would solve the problem. I installed the hinges in about 1 hour but I had door apart previously so I knew what I was doing. Now my wife is speaking to me again and she threw the wooden spoon away that she used to hold door closed. Just spent $100 dollars and saved $1600 thanks guys.

Replacing an oven igniter is one of the easiest repairs you can make to your oven. There are two igniters - one for the broiler and one for the oven itself. Oven Igniter: Start by removing the rear panel of the oven which attaches with a couple screws. Inside the oven, remove the "butterfly" shaped heat deflector (over the flame tube) which attaches with four screws. You now have access to the igniter. Remove the two screws which attach it to the bracket. On the rear of the oven, unplug the two spade connectors. Pull the igniter out from the front of the oven. Fish the wires for the new igniter through the same hole. Plug the 2 new wires back in. You can't mess this up - the wires have matching connectors and you can't get them confused. The broiler igniter is a little more complicated. You will have to remove the side panel of the oven to reach one of the connectors. It's just a couple more screws. The procedure is the same, but the wires are much harder to "fish" through the hole though. Unscrew the broiler igniter from the bracket and unplug the wires. Before you pull them out, attach a length of clothes hanger so that you pull the hanger into the oven from the rear. This way you can attach the new wires to the hanger and then pull them through to the back of the oven. If you don't attach something when you pull the old wires out, it is very hard to fish the wires for the broiler igniter to the rear of the oven. Good Luck!

Following the various instructions here made this replacement much easier! I was able to do this on my own with just a screwdriver. Pulling the hinges out was fiddly but after removing the screw and small hinge plate from each side a little wobbling and pulling with the door open an inch did the trick. After removing the door I started with the inside glass facing up on a table, and mid-replacement needed to flip the door over. So, recommend that you start with outside of door facing up. As you remove screws keep in mind where they came from so you can replace in reverse order properly. Other than that, everything went swimmingly! Thanks to everyone for their great advice.

As a relatively handy person, I have built homes, and done every kind of repair you could imagine from plumbing to heavy construction. I never wanted to play with appliances, just couldn't read those diagrams well enough to feel comfortable. Parts select has changed my life and saved me so much money and I have repaired appliances in several of the homes with no issues using your videos and parts as my guide.

This repair is only if your old igniters are working but they are so cracked that the spark is not going where it should be. TURN OF THE GAS SUPPLY VALVE BEHIND THE STOVE AND UNPLUG THE STOVE FROM THE WALL.I had to drill out most of the old screws to remove the burners plates because of all the old baked on spills. I bought replacement screws when I bought the igniters because I felt this would be a problem. My repair time included scrubbing the stove top. Once all the parts that make up the stovetop burners were removed (NOTE WHICH BURNER PLATE CAME FROM WHICH LOCATION, THEY ARE DIFFERENT SIZES) and I could see the pipes beneath the stove top, I cleared off the top and used a spreading knife to push in the clips on the left and right sides near the front of the stove. It was thin enough to fit in the space between the stove top and main body. Push the clip inward and pull up on the stove top and it will let you lift the top. Be careful because it may release suddenly so be gentle. I also removed the top section of the back of the stove to access the igniter terminal block. A few screws, nothing more. Be sure to take note of which wire goes where. (They are color coded). Unplug the old igniters. it is easiest to cut he old igniters off of the end of the wires and pull out three wires leaving only one. At the back left of the top of the stove there is a rectangle channel that the wires are running through. There is a clip that holds the wires loosely together. Remove the wires from that clip or the next part will be difficult. Run each of the new igniter wires through their respective holes in the stove top. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE WIRE INSULATION IN ANY WAY. When you put the burner plates back on the igniters will be sandwiched in between the plate and the stove top. Using electrical tape, tape the connector ends of the new wires to the one remaining old wire. Gently pull the old wire through the rectangle channel, pulling from the back of the stove. Take your time so no damage occurs. Once the wires are pulled, plug them in to their respective terminals and place the wires in the loose clip. Make sure the new wires are not crossing the pipe openings where the burners are located. You can close the stove top and double check there are no wires across any of the burner openings. Re-assemble the burners and plug in the stove. DO NOT OPEN THE GAS VALVE. Turn on the stove and check to make sure the new igniters are working properly and sparking to the burner plate assemblies. You should see a controlled spark. Do not touch the burner plates or igniters or you will be shocked. If all are working then you may put the back cover on and open the gas valve. If none are working make sure the stove is plugged in. If some are working then check the connection on the terminal block and the wire insulation. If they are still not working then you've got bigger fish to fry. Good luck my friend. Happy fixing!

Took door apart no problem had a little trouble putting it back together just one piece I put back wrong had to start over not to bad still took less then one hour

I was not around the entire time a neighbor was working to get the door removed. He only said he had to remove an additional screw so I'm not sure I can be of much help here.Once the door was removed however, the repair went easily. I would tell anyone needing this repair to be prepared to clean a number of crevices around the door. I was glad to have a chance to clean these hidden places.Let me also said customer service rep was wonderful.

Pulled the oven out from the counters and unplugged the electrical cord. Unscrewed the three screws holding the center back panel on and removed the panel. Located the temperature probe in the upper left part of the oven and followed the wiring to where it was connected. Unconnected the wire from the connector. Removed the screw holding the probe and pulled it out from the oven. Put the new part on and screwed it to the oven. Connected the wiring to the connector. Put the panel into the holding brackets and screwed in the three screws. Plugged in the oven and put it back against the wall. Turned on the oven, set a temperature and watched to see if it stopped at the set temperature. Bake3d dinner and ate it.

I was able to order the part I needed. The faulty pad had a broken stem.Several pads came in a bag so if I have the problem again I will have the parts on hand. I bought some RTV glue suitable for items at high temperatures; used a probe to make sure the hole in the grate was clear and clean and glued the new pad in place.

ordered replacement glass. removed oven door. dismantled parts, replaced glass and reassembled door and reattached to oven.