KDRP407HSS12 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Unplug power cord, remove wires from block. take 2 screws out. replace with new block about 15 mins. Done

opened door and secured the open position with a 3/8 allen wrench through the hole at the base of the support arm. (small bolt or other round, short object can be used). This locks the door in a 75% open position. Locking the door open allows easy lift and removal. Six screws and the door is apart. Clean and reassemble.

1) Look for the part at partselect.com, make sure you have the model and part number ready. Once you find the part, don't order yet. 2) Start your do-it-yourself repair by removing the oven door. On each side below are two arms/hinges, look closely and you will find locks on each side. Use your finger or flat screwdriver to slide towards you (this is where you start clicking your camera in evey step). Once you did it, wiggle the door a little bit, make sure they're unlocked, then pull it out carefully and hold it tight since it's little heavy. 3) At this point, you only need the phillips screwdriver. Look for all the screws, and unscrew it all, one step at a time (again make use of your digital camera). Remove the parts one at a time until you take out the broken inner glass. Measure it against the dimensions shown in the partselect.com. At this point you feel comfortable putting it back in-reverse, then you order the part. It took me 3 days for the part to arrive, but it's no big deal. 4) It's a bit difficult for me the first time, I can't figure out how to put them back (that's why I recommended the digital camera), plus I have to clean the inside and the other two glasses so it took me 1-2 hrs. I assure you if you follow my instructions, 15-30 minutes max, no sweat. 5) My wife promised me $300 for the labor (competitive price), I'm still waiting though.....Good Luck

I ordered the part online and after recieving it I downloaded the manual from kitchenaid online and it explain exactly how to replace this part and I followed the instructiones and it worked with not too much difficult . It took me about an hour between reeding the instructions and doing the job itself

Ordered a replacement part and during installation tightened the top mounting screws too tight and shattered the replacement part. Ordered a new replacemnte part and installed without overtighting mounting screws. Repair went well. I caution others not to overtighten top mounting screws. These are same screws that attache the SS pull handle on oven door.

To prevent this from happening use 7 #8 flat stainless steel washers per the 4 oven door holes that connect to the the handle as shims before securing the attachment brackets.

The replacement door has a cushion on the top and the sides secured to the tempered glass. When you tighten these brackets they can cause the entire glass panel to break. To prevent this use seven #8 flat washers per hole on the top of the door before securing the brackets. These will act as spacers but you will still will be able to achieve enough pressure to hold everything in place when you tighten them. Hope this helps, it worked for me, florida bob!!

Hardest part was getting the oven door off. Since I bought this house with oven already in place, I had no owner's manual. Tried to get it off with tips found on this site, no go. Went online and found the manual which said to insert allen wrench in holes in hinge, then lift up FROM THE BOTTOM. That is the key. Got door off, then found that replacing the inner glass is a multi step process that starts with the outside door, then multiple brackets to the next inside glass, then more braces to next glass, then finally you are at the broken (inside) glass.My advice would be to take pictures on cell phone or whatever of each level, so you know what goes where when you put it all back. I figured it out but would be faster with a picture. Anyway, got all together and the oven works fine, door looks great!.

I watched a video on line about how to do the baking element. I did not want to take the door off so it made it more difficult to get to the back where the connections are located. The broiler element has screws holding it up where the over element is resting on the bottom. The video said that you should test the conductivity but I did not have the object needed to do that. It was supposed to solve 99% of the problem to just replace it. When it was removed, I could see that it had a hole blown out on the coil. Problem solved without a repairman needed which would have cost alot more and I still would have needed this part.

Ordered parts that I thought were correct. BUT I ordered from the door parts... which gave me the wrong screw and unnecessary shims. What I really needed was the cabinet parts! At the time of doing the order, I could not find the owner manual... but found it before the parts arrived. That is what saved me and also thanks to me, for being a pack rat and my grandson finding the spacer on floor after it came out. That made it possible to fix the door. The screw I tried to install, but soon realized it was wrong. I went thru the pack rat stash and found the screw that fell out late last year.....! I then noticed the screw holding the hinge bracket was loose, now that is almost impossible to tighten because everything or tools that I owned were tooooo long (it's only 1 1/2" off the floor)! I tightened that and put the spacer and bottom hinge pin in. The screw was only 3/4" off the floor and difficult to get into the hole without a mirror on the floor under the spot. I finally used a clamp wrench to hold the screw and thread the screw into the hole. From there, most sockets are too long, so I did find a short socket. Now that still took me to the mirror, so I used the clamp wrench to hold the socket to tighten the screw. Thank goodness I am mechanically inclined and can look at a schematic to to understand how something works or I would have had to call for a mechanic. Also I should say ... FIND you manual before ordering to start with the right parts! Manual showed the parts of the cabinet and the door as one long picture, which helped with the repair and would have for ordering.

I was able to convince a local mechanic that he could do this after watching it done four times. The most difficult part was unscrewing and taking out the oven to get to the back. He suggested since this has happened everytime I used the self-cleaning feature, that I cut a hole in the wall for easier access (tongue-in-cheek). The most difficult part was dealing with the extended warranty service plan - this is covered, but they could not find a technician to do this. Then I found out they don't pay mileage so who would want to come out to a rural ND ranch to repair an oven?

I did some research on blogs and identified the thermal fuse as likely culprit. Ordered part from PartSelect.com, but had to call the 800 number because the parts diagram doesn't show this fuse, just the thermostat. The fuse is located on the back of the oven, so it must be removed from the cabinet, but that wasn't a huge project. There are a bunch of sheet metal screws holding the top and back covers that must be removed. The fuse is held on by two screws and has two wire connections. Getting the stove out and disassembling is the hard part, but not really difficult if you take your time. I used a foot stool that was about the same height as the bottom of the oven and just slid the oven out on a piece of cardboard. Make sure you turn the power off before starting.

Door repair assembly was simple, did without any instructions or manuals. Fan assembly, the actual fan replacement was easy, it was the number of pieces of metal that needed to be removed i order to get the main rear panel off to access. Also had to remove panel from inside the oven; requires two people to loosen screws from inside while the other person holds the fan assembly from the rear side of the oven. Didn't have any instructions for this task either, figured it out anyway, just follow the layers.

took out door hinges, slightly close door, lift upwards, remove clips on bottom of door, remove screws from 2 inner layers of glass, insert new glass, perform revers order reassembly..cleaned all inner glass, and surrounding parts prior to reassembly

Removed the door from the unit. Set the door face down on a work surface. Remove the screws and put them in a separate place from the rest of the screws (They are a different style of screw). Turn the door back over. Remove the two clips at the bottom on the door. The door front will slide down. Set the door front off to the side with the two clips and the screws. Remove the screws securing the brackets for the next level of glass (Mark which it the top and which is the bottom bracket. Place the glass, brackets and screws together. Remove the next glass/bracket assembly and set it aside with the screws. Lift the inside metal glass retainer and set it aside. Remove the old glass and install the new glass and reverse the order of the disassembly process.