KDRP407HSS06 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

I went to the source of power on the stove and noticed one of the terminals had come loose from the terminal block and had shorted out against the cover of the terminal junction. After prying the loose terminal off cover I ordered new terminal block and received it the 2nd day. I removed the old terminal block and replaced the part in about 10 minutes..Thank you Parts Select for your easy to find diagrams and quick delivery.

Unscrewed the old thermostat took off the conectors then replaced with new one, and screwed it back on.

Repair was super simple . Any one could have done it.

I followed the step-by-step instructions from Steve on the part select videos posted on Youtube.

The Kitchenaid oven has 2 interior oven lights. They are behind rectangular glass panels, in an assembly housing The repair is pretty simple. Shut off the power at the breaker box to the oven first. First remove the small screw that holds in the assembly with a Phillips screwdriver. Put down a white piece of paper towel to catch it in case it drops. It is grey color and hard to find against the bottom of the oven. This will free up the assembly and you can move it out. There is a wire on the back so it only comes out a short distance. Next the glass panel covering the bulb must be removed. The small metal clamp with 2 projections that act like a spring to put tension on the glass. Gently pull this out parallel to to the glass and it will release the lens. The old bulb is a simple 2 prong halogen that pulls out easily. Replace it with the new bulb carefully pushing the prongs in. If you did not turn off the power the light will come on immediately. it will get hot quickly so don't touch it for more than a few seconds. Next slide the glass lens back into place into the back of the assembly. Slip the other clip with the screw back on the front. Replace the assembly back into the oven side opening. Secure by replacing the small screw removed in the beginning. You are done. It is about a 5 minute job start to finish. I would replace both bulbs even if only one went out because the other one probably will go out a short time later and you will have to go through this again soon. Oh, and cheap bulbs are not worth it. They are very dim and burn out quickly. Go with the better bulbs you get from PartSelect.

Have a Whirlpool Accubake self cleaning wall oven that quit working after doing a cleaning. Found that the thermal overload safety thermostat might be the problem. Ordered the part which arrived in a couple of days. Installation was very easy and took about 10 minutes. First turn off power to the oven. Slide the oven out, remove the back panel, remove the old safety thermostat which has two wires coming off of it, and replace it with the new one. Put the back panel on and slid the oven back in. Turned the power to the oven back on and we had heat. Problem solved.

Killed the power to oven, removed oven from its enclosure (its heavy), removed back off oven and the part that needed to be replaced was right there. After that simply reverse the procedure. Honestly hardest part of whole job was remembering what i did with the screwdriver after my last home repair job. The oven is heavy you may need help.

Contacted repair person on line and explained the problem. Person suggested testing the thermal fuse. Checked for continuity and there was none indicating the fuse was blown. Ordered new part and installed. Everything working again. Only problem was that the new part did not have the same connection as the old one on one end. Made substitution and it worked.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

Removed retainer screw and retainer. Removed old gasket. Installed new gasket, retainer, and retainer screw. Very simple job.

Turned the circuit breaker off, removed trim and the oven screws, pulled oven out, and placed on a stand in front. Electrical cord was just long enough without disconnecting. Removed the back panel, installed the old thermostat with the new one the same way. Used the same phillips screwdriver for the operation. Installed the oven using reverse order. Turn circuit breaker on, back in business. Prior comments definitely helped me a lot. Thanks.

After reading other repair reports and talking to a representative, I ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat. Relatively easy to install after removing the oven from the cabinet, only it did not work. After going over the wiring with a voltage meter, we discovered there was no power to the upper oven, only the lower oven was working. Took the panel off the top of the oven and found a wire which was not attached to anything. Never needed this part at all. This oven was purchased from a second-hand store and was used in a remodeling. $52 for part and $100 for serviceman to make the oven operational.

Removed trim strip from each side of oven, removed one screw from each side hat held oven in place and slid oven out of wall. Finally found the thermostat located on the back side of the oven after removing the sheet metal on back. replaced the thermostat and reversed the procedure. Only difficult part was locating the thermostat. I thought it was on top, when in fact it was on the back. Pretty easy, really, and saved some cash in the process.

find the owner's manual & follow the instructions for inserting two allen wrenches (assuming that you cannot find the "removal tools" that came with the oven) into the holes near the hinges on the door, carefully & slowly close the door with the wrenches inserted until the hinges disengage from the wall mounted oven. Lift the door away (is rather heavy). It is necessary to remove panels from the front one layer at a time to reach the 3rd layer of glass (the inner most glass that is the rather easy one to break). Be slow and methodical. Not a challenge once you study the owner's manual for door removal instructions.

Instructions were clear and the work was easy. Take your time and think about what you are doing, and you won't have any problems replacing the glass.