KGRC707LBT0 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

Removed broken glass cover and bulb, cleaned old gasket off with damp cloth and replaced with new bulb, glass cover and gasket. No tools needed.

Repair was very straightforward. Based on information gathered from an earlier post about the same repair I simply removed all screws from the oven door. These were all located on the bottom edge of the door itself. Upon removal of the screws the door separated and exposed the "core" where I then had access to the hinges which were held in by one screw each. I removed the broken hinge, replaced it with the new hinge, pieced the door back together, put back all the screws, and the repair was complete.

1. Turn off Gas at valve under cooktop. Unplug electric to igniters. 2. Remove all control knobs. 3. Remove grates and burner covers. 4. Remove screws from each burner head (10 screws) 5. lift and remove cooktop cover. 6. Reach under cabinet and push up main cooktop body (about 4 or 5 inches) and BLOCK. 7. AT FRONT OF COOKTOP REMOVE 2 philips screws holding burner strip. Slightly lift burner strip enough to get short handle philips under screw holding igniter (Be gentle as gas line is still connect and will give enough so as not to have to disconnect them. 8. Remove and replace igniter. 9. Reverse procedures above.

Very easy, unscrew the old one remove the back panel tie a string to the wires pull though the front of the oven remove the string tie it to the new ingiter and pull the wires back though the oven back wall and hook up the wires and screw it back into place.

Loosened bottom screws and slipped in glass. Retightened.

Your online video was a great help.

The instructions already posted are good; the only twist on the problem I had is that I have the model with no broiler. So that caused a bit of confusion on my part, but what I needed is the lower igniter, (part #PS11747123) illustrated on the schematic diagram, with two separate leads, not a single plug. After I figured that out it was a walk in the park. And...just to be accurate...I discovered that the factory had patched in wire extenders on each lead with wire nuts. Evidently the original igniter leads used when the stove was manufactured were too short to reach through the back wall, so they had to extend them. If that is your case also, just remove the extender wire with the cap nuts, the new igniter leads are plenty long enough to reach through the back wall of the oven and clip on to the terminals of the gas valve.

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

Repair went well. The door came off easily after I figered out how to pull the hinges out of the oven chasis. The door dissassembled fine until I reached the 7 tags with screws that hold the inner glass in place. Three of the screws were frozen tight. Probable due to the age of the oven and the heat cycles on them. A little penetrating oil and working with the screws finally worked them loose. Just be carfull when tightening the screws with the new glass. If the screws are tightened too tight it may break the new glass.

Unscrewed about 10 screws to disassemble the door to get at the hinge then screw new hinge in. Was inspired by the woman who said she did it while watching a child. I saved $200 in the repair fee I was quoted

It didn't. The grate pads (PN# PS389174) were too small for the grate (W10311216) and wouldn't work. (PN# recommended by Whirlpool parts department) The pads were smaller in diameter and shorter. Yes I could have glued them in, but because of the size the pads would be flat in no time. The only thing I could order from KitchenAid was the total grate. I ordered the pads late December, they were backordered. I got them the 1st week of February. I tried getting through to Whirlpool by calling to see if there was something I could reorder, but no luck, couldn't through. Am I unhappy? Oh some, but I handle it. Its not the first time I have been rode hard and put away wet.

remove grate - flip upside down - be sure holes are clean and dry - using toothpick, swab some RTV sealant into the holes and a bit on the pads ... insert pads till they seat - be sure to hold in place till all air is evacuated - wipe excess RTV with paper towel...DONE

Overall the project was not bad. There are many pieces to the door. Carefully observe the order in which the door comes apart. This will make putting everything back together a lot quicker. The screws that hold the glass clips in the door were almost impossible to remove by hand. A power drill was helpful. Extra time was needed to wash off the baked on crud. When it was all done, the oven looked brand new.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.